I want to freshen up my 395

[testlight]

Any good resources online or in print. This saws seems to be low on power. My compression gauge said 125, but I don't know that I trust it.

I was thinking of doing a small muffler mod, new rings and piston, maybe eliminate the base gasket.

Does everybody replace their crank seal.at the same time, or should I buy a tester.

I usually.just buy a new saw, but I can't justify.it since I don't cut.much anymore.

Thanks

 

[huskihl]

You could replace the seals. Probably doesn’t need it yet but I guess it couldn’t hurt. I would compare the intake skirt thickness to your exhaust skirt thickness on the piston to see if the intake side appears to be worn thinner. Or check the wear with feeler gauges. If .004” fits between the skirt and the bore I would get a new Meteor piston and rings. If your piston doesn’t show any wear, you could replace the rings and be good to go

 

[testlight]

Thanks

 

[singinwoodwackr]

With 125 it needs more than just freshening up…

 

[huskihl]

With 125 it needs more than just freshening up…

Maybe just rings

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Maybe just rings

Possibly

 

[Beauman]

Any good resources online or in print. This saws seems to be low on power. My compression gauge said 125, but I don't know that I trust it.

I was thinking of doing a small muffler mod, new rings and piston, maybe eliminate the base gasket.

Does everybody replace their crank seal.at the same time, or should I buy a tester.

I usually.just buy a new saw, but I can't justify.it since I don't cut.much anymore.

Thanks

If compression test was good, then something is wrong w/ the jug & piston (unless you're seals, base gasket or intake manifold are leaking like a sieve). Depending on age of saw and how long ago it was last overhauled, you might as well replace the crank seals, fuel lines, intake pipe and overhaul the carb while your at it. I just rebuild a 4 year old very heavily used turdsaw 395 this winter (posted the vids on my YouTube channel). Went well but as is typical with rebuilds you often go WAY down a rabbit hole and spend more than planned because you inevitably find issues you didn't anticipate. But, if you can't afford a new one, then it'll still be worth it since your time is free.

 

[testlight]

Thanks everyone. At what point do y'all think I'd be better off just buying a new saw and selling this one as a project to someone else?

It does run, it just seems weak, and the motor feels a little mushy when I pull on the cord (without the decompression button pushed in)

 

[Beauman]

Thanks everyone. At what point do y'all think I'd be better off just buying a new saw and selling this one as a project to someone else?

It does run, it just seems weak, and the motor feels a little mushy when I pull on the cord (without the decompression button pushed in)

New 395 is $1,300-1500 stock, new roughly equivalent 592 would be at least $1500. Very doubtful that you'd have to spend that much on parts to repair yours, provided you are willing to spend the time. Unless you literally replace all parts on the saw with OEM, it's doubtful that you'd spend more than $700, and likely far under that depending on the condition of the cylinder, piston and crank. Biggest parts cost would be if you have to replace the entire cylinder assembly (especially if going OEM), and assuming you don't have a bad crankshaft. New pro saws will only come w/ a 1-2 year warranty, so if you can rebuild your 395 yourself and assuming you don't have to tear it down and do a complete rebuild bolt for bolt, it will be cheaper to rebuild your existing saw, and you'll have a lot of fun learning how to rebuild it. On the other hand, if you don't want to go through all of that, and especially if you will pay someone to rebuild it, then just sell your saw for parts and invest what you get on that on a new saw. But, likely you won't get much for your old saw since it sounds like it needs a fair amount of work.

 

[Gord404]

ya don't know until you get into it, might have a slightly scored piston- you could pull the muffler and take a look- usualy have to loosen the inside dawg a bit to clear the muffler, just finished one up, replaced the crank and bearings-seals - crank was spun on the bearing but I have loads of parts so no biggy

 

[huskihl]

I have pulled apart dozens of 394s and 395s with 1/8” ring end gaps. Pistons were worn and cylinders were still fine. it’s very likely that you only need rings and /or possibly a piston

 

[testlight]

That's what I was hoping.