ID this Dolmar?

[gggGary]

I was first in line, it's mine, on the way to pick it up. Can anyone tell me what model it is?

 

[turkeybob]

Could be a number of models from 109 to 115. Does it not have the aluminium serial plate under clutch / chainbrake cover? It's a pre 1989 model, what carb is on it Walbro or Tillotson(injection)? If no plate then you will have to remove the exhaust and measure bore with a drinking straw, put in cyl above piston turn motor till piston just goes above exh port, it leave a sign which you can measure bore. Check out IPL attached which will help you with ID. Parts are plentiful as most parts are interchangeable with a few models, 115 was still produced till about three years ago.
Great little saws, very reliable and snappy (for an older saw)
https://www.barrettsmallengine.com/p/sachs-dolmar-51-109-110-110h-111-115.html

 

[gggGary]

Thanks TurkeyBob! Just got it home, and it's a 111. Cleaned it up, got the chain brake linkage levered back where it belongs, changed gas in the tank, dried the plug, and it starts easy, runs, and cuts well. Needs a new pull rope and the on off switch doesn't work (yet), but chain oiler works, even a sharp "like new" chain. She's not a cream puff but not bad for a free saw...
Bonus got to put 90 miles on the motorcycle to go get it.

 

[MMG]

Sweet! I like them old Sachs Dolmars

 

[lwmibc]

I have a 111 just like it, but a bit cleaner and with most original paint; bought from CL for $50 because somebody had seized it. Found that the reason was that he had lent it out, the user had let the muffler bolts drop out, lost the screws and heat shield and gasket, and put it back together and ran it with no heat shield or gasket, and a poorly connected muffler. That caused an overheat of the exhaust side of the cylinder plus cooked some plastic parts in the chain brake mechanism.

My total parts cost was just over $11; bolts, heat shield, gasket. I cleaned out the ring groove--mine uses only one piston ring--spent hours in front of the TV in evenings with crocus cloth sanding the deposited aluminum off the cylinder wall, polished the piston skirt where the aluminum came from with a belt grinder, installed new ring and put it back together.

I've been using it for about 6 years now since that; best power-to-weight ratio saw I've ever had. Just love the little thing. Mine came with a genuine Sachs-Dolmar .325--.058 bar. Chain brake doesn't work but for someone my age they are a new invention anyway; would like to have it working but I can remain alive without one.

An excellent saw. I just put in my annual volunteer hours at the gun club yesterday bucking up a couple cords of firewood for them with it; took me about an hour with no help until I had it all bucked--then the young fellas came over and had it hauled away in 15 minutes, about 6 pickup loads. I had taken along the Husqvarna 2100 and never even started it.

 

[turkeybob]

I have a 111 just like it, but a bit cleaner and with most original paint; bought from CL for $50 because somebody had seized it. Found that the reason was that he had lent it out, the user had let the muffler bolts drop out, lost the screws and heat shield and gasket, and put it back together and ran it with no heat shield or gasket, and a poorly connected muffler. That caused an overheat of the exhaust side of the cylinder plus cooked some plastic parts in the chain brake mechanism.

My total parts cost was just over $11; bolts, heat shield, gasket. I cleaned out the ring groove--mine uses only one piston ring--spent hours in front of the TV in evenings with crocus cloth sanding the deposited aluminum off the cylinder wall, polished the piston skirt where the aluminum came from with a belt grinder, installed new ring and put it back together.

I've been using it for about 6 years now since that; best power-to-weight ratio saw I've ever had. Just love the little thing. Mine came with a genuine Sachs-Dolmar .325--.058 bar. Chain brake doesn't work but for someone my age they are a new invention anyway; would like to have it working but I can remain alive without one.

An excellent saw. I just put in my annual volunteer hours at the gun club yesterday bucking up a couple cords of firewood for them with it; took me about an hour with no help until I had it all bucked--then the young fellas came over and had it hauled away in 15 minutes, about 6 pickup loads. I had taken along the Husqvarna 2100 and never even started it.

The 111 is a great saw, I agree on all written above, light, snappy with good torque. Considering the build year the compare favourably with more modern saws. With a 15" or 16" bar they great balance. I suggest using a good 2 stroke oil, Red Armour or Husqvarna XP at 40:1, keeps the carbon away and if the OP does not know the condition of the inside it will clean it up. Just source some AV mounts for spare as they can soften over time ( same as 115, Makita 520 etc) For info, depending on year brake bands are available if you could be bothered to fit one, if its single flag mounting type you can retrofit all stuff from later models

 

[gggGary]

Thanks for the input and suggestions!
The throttle lock for starting, doesn't. It kinda holds for a second then drops out. Anyone got a likely suspect where the wear is? This saws got some hours on it.
Appears to have an OEM bar, very dark gray color.
Air filter has some tears but replacements are kinda dear.
Ran it full bar into some ash and it made chips nicely.
No dogs, a way to add some?
More pics later.

 

[lwmibc]

As the air filter comes apart in two halves so you can get at both sides, maybe a glue repair would hold it for a few years.

Mine came with a bucking spike, there are two holes in the case for small Allen-head bolts where it mounts.

The woven nylon strap that holds the handle to the anti-vibe mount forward of the chain brake handle is important to be there, I can't see one in your pics. I do see the screw in the metal bracket where it should be, behind the bracket. You'll tear the anti-vibe mount apart if the strap is not there. One can be made from similar material and added.

I haven't had the handle housing the throttle trigger apart so can't advise on why it would be letting go. I wouldn't doubt that cleaning might solve it though, that saw did look plenty dirty when you got it.

 

[turkeybob]

Thanks for the input and suggestions!
The throttle lock for starting, doesn't. It kinda holds for a second then drops out. Anyone got a likely suspect where the wear is? This saws got some hours on it.
Appears to have an OEM bar, very dark gray color.
Air filter has some tears but replacements are kinda dear.
Ran it full bar into some ash and it made chips nicely.
No dogs, a way to add some?
More pics later.

Throttle lock could be the spring just wants bending, item 4 on IPL on page 3. If you clean bar off close to the saw body, you should see the stamped markings on it, that will give part number and what spec, probably 3/8" .58 and number of links, or with part number you can ID bar from IPL. Air filters are available AM if you check around. Same as Makita DCS 520, which may help you as later model. You can use superglue to fill tears till you get one, better tan running with holes. There should be a pre filter also under that square, item 36, page 2 on IPL. These saw benefit from a muffler mod and removal of spark arrester screen in exhaust, item 40 page 3( if used none commercially.
Inner dogs are available and straight bolt on. Best to look out for a parts saw, or contact chainsawr, again choice from 109 to 115 and Makita DCS 430 - DCS 520 etc will fit, or put wanted add on here

 

[turkeybob]

Throttle lock could be the spring just wants bending, item 4 on IPL on page 3. If you clean bar off close to the saw body, you should see the stamped markings on it, that will give part number and what spec, probably 3/8" .58 and number of links, or with part number you can ID bar from IPL. Air filters are available AM if you check around. Same as Makita DCS 520, which may help you as later model. You can use superglue to fill tears till you get one, better tan running with holes. There should be a pre filter also under that square, item 36, page 2 on IPL. These saw benefit from a muffler mod and removal of spark arrester screen in exhaust, item 40 page 3( if used none commercially.
Inner dogs are available and straight bolt on. Best to look out for a parts saw, or contact chainsawr, again choice from 109 to 115 and Makita DCS 430 - DCS 520 etc will fit, or put wanted add on here

lwmlbc is correct, item 10c, page 2, its a limit strap and as pointed out will stop too much stress on AV mount.
The other thing to do is spin the clutch off and lube the clutch drum bearing, often neglected and if saw has hours on it would problem need doing.

 

[gggGary]

Saw starts so nice I prolly don't need the throttle lock!

 

[lwmibc]

Interesting bar marking. Mine has clean stamped letters/numbers, not centre-punch dimples.

D86
Sachs Dolmar
411.407.600
0.325"/64
147mm/.58"

Honest, .58", not .058". And the groove does measure .058.

As turkeybob mentioned, just perfect balance with this bar. It really is a pleasure to use, you'll enjoy it even with 2" more bar.

 

[turkeybob]

Cleaned up well! They always start well, to be honest I've not come across better starters.
Bars are easy to get and cheap, when you need, Husky mount Oregon K095 type. 3/8" work fine as motor has enough torque to pull it if in ok condition.

 

[gggGary]

It ran well enough that I made the big investment and replaced the pull cord.
Got the trigger lock fixed, found and fixed a broken wire on the kill switch.
repaired the carb screen, went out and made some saw dust.


Not bad for a saw with $5 and a couple hours invested in it.

As y'all predicted a front vibration donut broke LOL.
Touching up the paint now.
Guess it's worth a getting a new damper, figuring out a snubber strap and sharpening the chain.

 

[lwmibc]

I used these to replace that rubber anti-vibe mount. I do think I had to re-tap the inner mount for the threads on them but it is so long ago now I forget. Having the rest of the 4 left over ensures it doesn't break.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/lar...-pads-with-5-16-in-studs/product/PA0008656472
But they will break readily if that limit strap is not there; something woven nylon like a small dog leash. Double the ends over to strengthen where it mounts, run through with a hot soldering pencil or gun to produce a hole with fused perimeter, figure the length from the saw sitting in rest position. It goes from that screw on the shiny metal bracket leading to the vibe mount from the handle, to behind that heat-shield cup on the muffler-side of the rubber mount. Use a washer to spread the load at the shiny-handle-screw end.

You'll see the obviousness of what it does when you get one on there; simple but necessary.

 

[gggGary]

As the air filter comes apart in two halves so you can get at both sides, maybe a glue repair would hold it for a few years.

Mine came with a bucking spike, there are two holes in the case for small Allen-head bolts where it mounts.

The woven nylon strap that holds the handle to the anti-vibe mount forward of the chain brake handle is important to be there, I can't see one in your pics. I do see the screw in the metal bracket where it should be, behind the bracket. You'll tear the anti-vibe mount apart if the strap is not there. One can be made from similar material and added.

I haven't had the handle housing the throttle trigger apart so can't advise on why it would be letting go. I wouldn't doubt that cleaning might solve it though, that saw did look plenty dirty when you got it.

Could I beg a picture of that nylon strap mounted?
Got a bucking spike off flea-bay $8 delivered.
Going to have to get the bottom AV rubber. Glued this one but it'll fall apart ASAP, LOL

 

[lwmibc]

Sure; give me a day or two and I'll post a photo. I also replaced all the anti-vibe rubbers when I found just how good a saw it was, can't remember where I found them but it was online. I don't think I was able to find that upper one that the nylon strap protects which is why I went with the Princess Auto ones--that and that they were locally available.

 

[redpowerd]

Might be worth retrofitting the later plastic handle onto it. Im going to be pulling two saws apart and am going to weigh the plastic vs the aluminium/steel menagerie here sometime this week.

 

[lwmibc]

The strap.

 

[gggGary]

The strap.

Excellent! I will duplicate that.
Thank you kind sir.

The damper that broke on me is the one on the bottom.