Recently i resolved idle issues in my 09 346xp.
The issue was droping idle after a cut to the point of dying. Raising the idle to a stable point of not stalling the chain started to move, sometimes even draging.
When cold the saw is stable til it warms up, then the same story. Idle speed would change even after normal/short cut and long cut in hard/big wood.
This started fairly early, got this saw used, gify front my uncle.
What helped was pumping fuel, seemed to run a little longer.
Carb kit - not much change.
Crank seals little to no improvement.
Then suspecting airleak i changed all hoses lines filters vents intake boot all things touching fuel and air.
Heck, even the primer bulb grommet.
No change, pressure/vaccum tested it even pressure tested warm/hot to exclude the middle seal. All passed. Different known good carb then new carb. Coil checked and tested in another saw and borrowed coil.
Same, new decomp valve.
Compression 155-165 psi/9.5-10.5 bar no scoring.
Good power, easy start. As long as you stayed of idle good saw.
Then i noticed piston slap, comparing it to other saws trimmers felt like to much.
Probably a new piston would have been enough but i got a complete set, from Husqvarna and new clutch related suff.
All Husqvarna sourced parts
This cured the issues, stil need to run a few more tanks of fuel to properly break it in watch the plug and correct the carb setting.
My questions is can the piston slap be the main issue that the piston skirt can expose the port messing up the timg or mixture flow? Or blowby ?
New piston has diameter of 44.3 or even 44.35 mm just under the ring where the old one had 44.2 or 44.15 intake-exhaust vise.
Way to much, automotive sized pistons have way less wear limit than this
Skirt has polishing marks, I did not bother to check for ovalization. Bore is shiny, no crosshatching but no grooves.
Ring gap 0.7mm
Dont have a bore gauge to see if im waay past the plating.
Took way to long to find this but I'm glad its done.
The issue was droping idle after a cut to the point of dying. Raising the idle to a stable point of not stalling the chain started to move, sometimes even draging.
When cold the saw is stable til it warms up, then the same story. Idle speed would change even after normal/short cut and long cut in hard/big wood.
This started fairly early, got this saw used, gify front my uncle.
What helped was pumping fuel, seemed to run a little longer.
Carb kit - not much change.
Crank seals little to no improvement.
Then suspecting airleak i changed all hoses lines filters vents intake boot all things touching fuel and air.
Heck, even the primer bulb grommet.
No change, pressure/vaccum tested it even pressure tested warm/hot to exclude the middle seal. All passed. Different known good carb then new carb. Coil checked and tested in another saw and borrowed coil.
Same, new decomp valve.
Compression 155-165 psi/9.5-10.5 bar no scoring.
Good power, easy start. As long as you stayed of idle good saw.
Then i noticed piston slap, comparing it to other saws trimmers felt like to much.
Probably a new piston would have been enough but i got a complete set, from Husqvarna and new clutch related suff.
All Husqvarna sourced parts
This cured the issues, stil need to run a few more tanks of fuel to properly break it in watch the plug and correct the carb setting.
My questions is can the piston slap be the main issue that the piston skirt can expose the port messing up the timg or mixture flow? Or blowby ?
New piston has diameter of 44.3 or even 44.35 mm just under the ring where the old one had 44.2 or 44.15 intake-exhaust vise.
Way to much, automotive sized pistons have way less wear limit than this
Skirt has polishing marks, I did not bother to check for ovalization. Bore is shiny, no crosshatching but no grooves.
Ring gap 0.7mm
Dont have a bore gauge to see if im waay past the plating.
Took way to long to find this but I'm glad its done.
