If I Take Pictues Of Tree Can Someone On This Site Give Estimte For Me ..?

[rats5656]

i wanto sell more tree work and to sub out bigger stuff and do some my self smaller stuff....


iam goin to take pics of tree so someone from the this site can give an price and estimte of what ishould be using crane buket truck or smallchipper bigchipper ??? and to give what i should charge ? with that equimp????

and if you live in new jersy near bergen counrty maybe ican give you the work also ......


thanks thanks for all the help give ....

 

[TREETX]

You are going to need local guys to give you a quote. Prices vary regionally.


Most here can't resist a troll so you should get responses

 

[rats5656]

how about a genarl idea of what i should charge and use and eqip?to cut the trees down ?

 

[rats5656]

can some one really help me with this
thanks ...

 

[Stumper]

If you post pictures and desciptions some of us will spew out numbers and advice. The guys that already posted ARE helping you. Pay close attention. You may reject their advice but consider it carefullly. -They are trying to keep you out of serious trouble.:angel:

 

[Koa Man]

If the job requires the use of a crane, I would think you automatically would need a big chipper, minimum 18 inch capacity.
It is true that tree work prices for similar jobs vary across the country. I can usually get more for what I do because 98% of my jobs are repeat, referrals, or someone sees us working and asks us for a business card. I do not advertise and I took off the signs on my trucks and equipment years ago. On almost all of my jobs I am the only bidder. I gave up bidding on government jobs, too many low ballers.

It is very easy to underbid a big tree job. It could cost you money instead of making you money. Make sure you get firm prices for whatever equipment and labor you will need. Add 20% leeway. You will get the art of bidding correctly over time. It is safest to start with small jobs. That way if you underbid, you will not be financially hurt too badly. Only 6 years ago I bid a $5000 single tree removal job and after expenses I had made only $12 an hour on my labor....less than I was paying my climber. If that job had taken even another 4 hours longer I would have lost money.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I'll help you out.
Don't forget, everyone of these nay sayers had to start out too. Your idea to do smaller jobs and sub out those you can't handle is a good one.

I personally can do most tree jobs in under an hour, some take half a day, a couple times a year I do one that takes all day or more. Those harder jobs would be the ones you would sub out, until you have more time in the saddle. The point is there isn't much at stake in terms of lost time.

Safety is a big concern. You'll want a copy of Tree Climbers Companion and ASNI Z133, Sherrill sells both. If you start out doing it right, you won't have a bunch of bad habits to change later.

Here's my short list of things that real arborists do:
1. sanitize cutting tools between jobs.
2. wear hard hat, ear protection, eye protection and chainsaw pants
3. stay tied in at least once when you are off the ground, twice when working.
4. don't wear spikes on trims
5. hold a chainsaw with two hands when cutting, no monkey grip.

If you can do that, you're already better than 80% of those here, and 99% of arborist in your area.

Let's see some trees now...

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

What is the recomended sanitization, does it involve the full chain path (bar/ bar nose, side cover, drive sprocket, etc.)?

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
I'll help you out.
Here's my short list of things that real arborists do:
1. sanitize cutting tools between jobs.
2. wear hard hat, ear protection, eye protection and chainsaw pants
3. stay tied in at least once when you are off the ground, twice when working.
4. don't wear spikes on trims
5. hold a chainsaw with two hands when cutting, no monkey grip.

O no, I guess I'm not really real, per Maasian standards.
1. I rarely see the need, but not a bad idea,
2. hat rarely ear usually eye rarely pants never,
3. Sometimes not during ascension unless it helps with ascension,
4. Sometimes use on sweetgums etc when cost of roping impractical and doesn't match benefit, per ANSI
5. One-hand when useful for extra reach in tree, and often when brushing on ground.:blob5:

But the points that you need to know the standards and follow the ones that protect you are good. Re bidding I have lost my a** on biggies, and have learned to price each portion of a biggie as if it were a single tree.

The biggest quetion--why remove it?--is the most important if you want to be an arborist and not just an aerial lumberjack (which is an honorable but limited profession).

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Spyder,
My pruning tools are almost all hand tools. I use alcohol and a paint brush.
I have a dedicated pruning saw that does not see too much cutting, but I just do my best with the same method.
Is it 100%? Nope, just the best I can do practically.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Guy,
You are an accident waiting to happen. I wish you well, but I hope you retire before anything happens, you're a loose cannon.

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by Kneejerk Bombas
Guy,
You are an accident waiting to happen. Stuff does happen, regardless. I wish you well, but I hope you retire before anything happens, you're a loose cannon.

Boom Boom. 38 years climbing down, 20+ to go. Better aloose cannon than a*** retentive--did you pick that up in the basement from your experience with Uncle Henry?

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Think about what you are saying Guy. Bragging about ignoring simple industry standard safety, to a young ( I assume) beginning climber, could literally cause a death.

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by Guy Meilleur

But the points that you need to know the standards and follow the ones that protect you are good.

That's hardly ignoring them kb, that's learning them, following most of them most of the time, and making them work for me. But your point about influencing is well taken. And some of what you pose as standards are preferences.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Okay, i'll byte;

Don't get me wrong, sometimes i'm tied in more than 2x when it will help balance, secure during transitionss so have 3rd to always have 2, thin stuff, rotted stuff......

Without a bad swing factor, and just handsaw; i guees i've been baaaaaad and been tied in only oncet. More comfy with 2, my usual deal, learning, preaching etc.


Does the tie twice stipulation cover use of non-power gear? Especially when you aren't hanging (weight of line, line won't cut so easy). A chainsaw can easily take out a line; especially under tension, but in most unloaded occasions it'd take a kamikaze awhile to handsaw thru line?

 

[Stumper]

Wow! I almost make Mike's standard. I only fail because I don't wear chainsaw pants in the tree and I sometimes one-hand the chainsaw.
My preferred sanitizer is offbrand "Lysol" in an aerosol can. Main active ingredient is alcohol but it also has Ammonium Chloride compounds for better residual effects. Very easy to anoint the toolheads as they go back into the truck and again upon arrival at the next job.

Ken, A single tie while handsawing is technically within the standard(or was-I haven't read a new revision). I occasionally do that while knocking out a twig or two while descending but I'm more comfy working double tied.

 

[Koa Man]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
I personally can do most tree jobs in under an hour, some take half a day, a couple times a year I do one that takes all day or more. Those harder jobs would be the ones you would sub out, until you have more time in the saddle. The point is there isn't much at stake in terms of lost time.

What kinds of trees do you have there? What is the average cost of jobs that you do? I can see why you guys really have to hustle for work if the jobs are so fast. My average tree job at a single location (may have more than 1 tree) is an all day affair. A few half days, quite a few multiple days and rarely a 1/4 day job. This is with a single climber and 2 groundmen.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Sorry Koa, that's what I meant by job, a single tree. We sell mostly all day or half day jobs with mutiple trees.

I don't wear chaps in the tree either, stumper.
As far as the double tie-in, I like to climb to a spot, saftey in, work that spot and go to the next.

There is a college in my area that is turning out good climbers. The students are young and don't have any corupt training and bad habits yet. We all know how much easier it is to train a guy with no experience, than train one with bad habits that can't be broken.
Anyway, these young climbers come out trained properly and do very well. You can watch them all day and they follow ASNI without fault. They climb as fast and efficiently as any "safety is for *******" hack you can find.
This tells me that there is no good excuse for not being safe, except, you don't know how.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Double tie in isn't required in the Z for handsaw use.

Tom

 

[kurtztree]

Hey Mike What college is that. I want to check it out because I am a little worried about getting laid off at asplundh they laid off 25 people already under we energies contract and there is rumor more are coming because they took out 1.3 million in there forestry budget. Plus I want to learn the right way too. already have 5 years with them.Thanks