In need of a bigger saw.

[Husky Man]

Sounds like your 036 needs a tune up or a piston or something. They are one of the bestsaws ever built in their cc class.

For 15 cords I’d probably put a 30 with skip on the 036 if you can get it running strong. Not ideal at all but will work for occasional use when you just need inches.

A 660 would be nice but I doubt you can justify one for 15 cords. You can get a used husky pretty cheap though if you want a big one. I have a 288 that’s a beast for the money. IMO there’s several reasons husky is cheaper than stihl and doesn’t have near the resale. Good saws, but appropriately priced under a stihl. In your situation I’d be tempted to take advantage of that poor resale.

I don't deny that Stihl makes a Good saw, but I have owned Huskies for 28 years, and have Never regretted my choice. They have been well made Reliable saws, and that original 266XP is still Earning it's keep

I have yet to see anything to make me even consider a Stihl being any Better saw than a Husky of the Same Class

If Huskies are "Appropriately Priced", then Stihls must be "INappropriately Priced"

I don't know what resale value is like for either in Texas, but here on the West Coast, where we have BIG Trees, Huskies hold their value just Fine

If you are Happy Over Paying for a Stihl, by all means feel free to continue doing so. Personally my "Appropriately Priced" saws have served me well for over a Quarter of a Century, and continue to feed the stove heating our home very nicely


Doug

 

[SamT1]

I don't deny that Stihl makes a Good saw, but I have owned Huskies for 28 years, and have Never regretted my choice. They have been well made Reliable saws, and that original 266XP is still Earning it's keep

I have yet to see anything to make me even consider a Stihl being any Better saw than a Husky of the Same Class

If Huskies are "Appropriately Priced", then Stihls must be "INappropriately Priced"

I don't know what resale value is like for either in Texas, but here on the West Coast, where we have BIG Trees, Huskies hold their value just Fine

If you are Happy Over Paying for a Stihl, by all means feel free to continue doing so. Personally my "Appropriately Priced" saws have served me well for over a Quarter of a Century, and continue to feed the stove heating our home very nicely


Doug

There’s a host of small but meaningful features on a stihl that set it apart from the husky. Obviously everyone puts a different value on those. They are both reliable and powerful saws with nice AV as close to equal as you can get there.
I’d rather pony up the $200 extra for a stihl, not everyone can appreciate some of the conveniences though.
Inboard clutch, a lot easier to swap chains, rims, service clutch if needed.
Integrated chain brake that you don’t have to jack with every time you swap a chain.
Easier access to air filter
Larger bar nuts that are easier to finger
Better chain tensioner system

I think if someone handed me a serviced up and ready to roll husky. I may would like it over a stihl. But for what I do I’m gonna swap chains every 15 minutes of cutting and the husky gets old fast. I do like my 288 though, but I never service it in the field, just get it ready in the shop and run it until it’s dull and swap to a stihl. I’ll always refuel and chain the stihl if needed.
The same with my old poulan saws (strikingly resembling the husky, or do I have that backwards ?)

 

[Cannon0521]

There’s a host of small but meaningful features on a stihl that set it apart from the husky. Obviously everyone puts a different value on those. They are both reliable and powerful saws with nice AV as close to equal as you can get there.
I’d rather pony up the $200 extra for a stihl, not everyone can appreciate some of the conveniences though.
Inboard clutch, a lot easier to swap chains, rims, service clutch if needed.
Integrated chain brake that you don’t have to jack with every time you swap a chain.
Easier access to air filter
Larger bar nuts that are easier to finger
Better chain tensioner system

I think if someone handed me a serviced up and ready to roll husky. I may would like it over a stihl. But for what I do I’m gonna swap chains every 15 minutes of cutting and the husky gets old fast. I do like my 288 though, but I never service it in the field, just get it ready in the shop and run it until it’s dull and swap to a stihl. I’ll always refuel and chain the stihl if needed.
The same with my old poulan saws (strikingly resembling the husky, or do I have that backwards ?)

I'm no pro by any means, but I'm a country boy and I've ran a saw a few times in my life. I'm a Husqvarna man , everything I own that burns two cycle oil is Husqvarna. My dad's boss is a sthil man, and I help him cut wood for the greenhouse wood burners , my Husqvarna cuts circles around him, and I can change a chain on it in about two minutes. I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't understand why it's so much trouble for you. As far as my saw out performing his , I don't think he files the dogs ( rackers) , so im sure that's his issue, but he knows everything lol so I let him struggle [emoji23]

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Husky Man]

There’s a host of small but meaningful features on a stihl that set it apart from the husky. Obviously everyone puts a different value on those. They are both reliable and powerful saws with nice AV as close to equal as you can get there.
I’d rather pony up the $200 extra for a stihl, not everyone can appreciate some of the conveniences though.
Inboard clutch, a lot easier to swap chains, rims, service clutch if needed.
Integrated chain brake that you don’t have to jack with every time you swap a chain.
Easier access to air filter
Larger bar nuts that are easier to finger
Better chain tensioner system

I think if someone handed me a serviced up and ready to roll husky. I may would like it over a stihl. But for what I do I’m gonna swap chains every 15 minutes of cutting and the husky gets old fast. I do like my 288 though, but I never service it in the field, just get it ready in the shop and run it until it’s dull and swap to a stihl. I’ll always refuel and chain the stihl if needed.
The same with my old poulan saws (strikingly resembling the husky, or do I have that backwards ?)

An inboard clutch does make chain swaps a bit quicker and easier, most of my Huskies are outboard, which some claim have their own advantages, my 390XP is inboard, how many/which Husky models are inboard, I don't know, but that is model specific, not Stihl Exclusive

What do you mean by "Jack with the chain brake, every time you change chains"?

I don't have any trouble with any of my chain brakes when changing chains, make sure it is released before removing it(Pretty Dayum hard to remove engaged), No trouble or Jacking Around at All.

My newer saws have quick clips, so air filters aren't any problem

How big are your Bar nuts? I sure don't have any trouble spinning nuts on and off on my Huskies

I have several different styles of chain tensioners, I don't have any trouble with any of them, what is so much better about the Stihl tensioners?

15 minutes of cutting time between chain changes? You do know that keeping the bar out of the dirt and rocks Really Helps with that, Right?

I dunno, I'm just Not seeing the justification for the price difference, but obviously some do


Doug

 

[JeffHK454]

Here come the fanboys..

 

[Husky Man]

Here come the fanboys..

Hmm, username JeffHK454, NOT a Chevy Fan Boi by any chance, are You?


Doug

 

[Ronaldo]

Here come the fanboys..

And we have them on both sides.....i tend to lean towards the Husqvarna/Jonsered side. Have had a number of Stihls (036,041AV,260 and a 261). None of the Stihls had as capable air filtration or vibration isolation as the spring AV and spin prefilter that I had on the Huskys (other than the 261because it had spring and prefilter capability just like the Swedish saws). My last saw was a Dolmar with heated grips. I could get it for half of what Stihl and Husky wanted for equivalent models. I like any of them that work well......

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

 

[foeke]

I'm a big fan of not having two types of barmount for the same lenght.
I always wonder why for example Dolmar, Oregon, and Husky etc often use the same barmount, but almost nobody using stihl barmounts other than stihl (and oleomac?)
As far as I know.
But definetly not consistent.
It would be so convenient to just have 3 or so types.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G955F met Tapatalk

 

[svk]

I'm a big fan of not having two types of barmount for the same lenght.
I always wonder why for example Dolmar, Oregon, and Husky etc often use the same barmount, but almost nobody using stihl barmounts other than stihl (and oleomac?)
As far as I know.
But definetly not consistent.
It would be so convenient to just have 3 or so types.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G955F met Tapatalk

In the case of Stihl they could use the reason that the larger bar studs are stronger. But in reality it’s just to be difficult. They want you to buy their high dollar replacement bar.

Then on the smaller Echo saws they use the common bar mount but make their bars 1/4” longer so you need a nonstandard length of chain to fit.

 

[Rightwinger82]

I suppose the 036 should get a compression test, and check out the tuning of the carb. It just doesn't handle too well, and i dont enjoy sawing with it. I think it is maxed out with the 20 inch bar anyway. That is the biggest reason i liked the 272 i held, it had a nice feel, never have held a echo.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

It does not matter what saw one uses or brand. A Stihl has a great reputation, but not all models are gems. I bought a bunch of Huskies 460 a few years ago thinking one model of saw would be easier than several sizes. They work fine. However for more than 25 cords they do not meet my needs of production. They will cut a 48'' diameter Oak with no problem except they being a little slow. For some one that is going to need less than 20 cords a years any saw larger than 60cc will work fine. Thanks

 

[foeke]

@svk. I get that I am not a very big part of the global marketshare. But as soon as I suspected that stihl was making you buy different bars, they lost me as a customer.

 

[SamT1]

I looked at the new husky saws for a bit this AM , looks like they have actually corrected most of my beefs. All my experience has been with the 2XX saws and ranchers. I don’t think a guy can take off whatever hat he wears and put a 288 and 660 or a 272 and 440 side by side and run them in the field, service them, etc and not conclude that the husky is a “work truck version” crank windows and the steel wheels that catch mud, but an equal drive train at a lower price.
I’d like to snag a 372 husky off the trader but there’s not many around here. But when huskys do show up they are dirt cheap since they have zero dealer support around here and folks are unfamiliar with their number system. Hence my 288 I paid $200 for, anyone know what a blown up worn out 660 will still fetch?
If I was gonna cut 15 cords a year I’d be looking to save as much money as possible but for over 100 I need the best tool possible so I know I’m on a different wavelength than most and I have some of my mentality from when I used to do 400-500. Guys felling trees with a long bar don’t go through chains like I would either so I can see the point on that not mattering as much.

 

[svk]

@svk. I get that I am not a very big part of the global marketshare. But as soon as I suspected that stihl was making you buy different bars, they lost me as a customer.

I have only owned a couple of Stihl products. They were all great. But I personally do not agree with how they hold their dealers hostage and make them charge fixed prices for replacement parts and are mostly inflexible on new purchase pricing.

My buddy has a Stihl 211. A Stihl replacement bar for their homeowner line of saws is over 40 bucks!!! And the chain is close to 20!

 

[SamT1]

@svk. I get that I am not a very big part of the global marketshare. But as soon as I suspected that stihl was making you buy different bars, they lost me as a customer.

You can buy stihl pattern bars from tons of folks. They are cheap as any, not some proprietary system. It’s not like every other saw runs the same bar. My saws all run different bars, old poulans have a bar that shares with the old John Deere echo, old Mac has its own goofy bar, husky 288 doesn’t share with anything else I own and has 2DL larger count than the 18” poulan, echo and stihl so it runs its own chains and is the odd man out. Little poulan top handles have different bars I think, never tried to put one on anything else since they are tiny.
Do the small husky saws share bars with old poulan saws.

I have only owned a couple of Stihl products. They were all great. But I personally do not agree with how they hold their dealers hostage and make them charge fixed prices for replacement parts and are mostly inflexible on new purchase pricing.

My buddy has a Stihl 211. A Stihl replacement bar for their homeowner line of saws is over 40 bucks!!! And the chain is close to 20!

yall do know you can get like 40 brands of bars for a stihl saw right? I haven’t bought a stihl bar in like 15 years because I use bars up so fast and get really close to the same life with Oregon for 60% cost. Their chain on the other hand is top notch and well worth the money.

They have to hold their dealers hostage to keep any margin in their products. If you want to sell a quality product and encourage dealers with choices to move your product through profitability the only way to prevent a race to the bottom of the Margin is to set a fixed price. I work in AG sales and we see races to the bottom every days from pop up shops and online shops that provide no service or advice. They can get ahold of a quality branded product and turn it into something no one cares a bit about selling in a heartbeat. That can ruin something someone spent years perfecting and getting through government red tape in a very short time.

 

[svk]

You can buy stihl pattern bars from tons of folks. They are cheap as any, not some proprietary system. It’s not like every other saw runs the same bar. My saws all run different bars, old poulans have a bar that shares with the old John Deere echo, old Mac has its own goofy bar, husky 288 doesn’t share with anything else I own and has 2DL larger count than the 18” poulan, echo and stihl so it runs its own chains and is the odd man out. Little poulan top handles have different bars I think, never tried to put one on anything else since they are tiny.
Do the small husky saws share bars with old poulan saws.

yall do know you can get like 40 brands of bars for a stihl saw right? I haven’t bought a stihl bar in like 15 years because I use bars up so fast and get really close to the same life with Oregon for 60% cost. Their chain on the other hand is top notch and well worth the money.

I would never buy a Stihl branded bar. But when you do need parts from them, better bend over.

I have some Stihl chain and love it. Second to none for durability. But I rarely buy it because Oregon frequently goes on sale and it is less than half the price.

 

[Husky Man]

I looked at the new husky saws for a bit this AM , looks like they have actually corrected most of my beefs. All my experience has been with the 2XX saws and ranchers. I don’t think a guy can take off whatever hat he wears and put a 288 and 660 or a 272 and 440 side by side and run them in the field, service them, etc and not conclude that the husky is a “work truck version” crank windows and the steel wheels that catch mud, but an equal drive train at a lower price.
I’d like to snag a 372 husky off the trader but there’s not many around here. But when huskys do show up they are dirt cheap since they have zero dealer support around here and folks are unfamiliar with their number system. Hence my 288 I paid $200 for, anyone know what a blown up worn out 660 will still fetch?
If I was gonna cut 15 cords a year I’d be looking to save as much money as possible but for over 100 I need the best tool possible so I know I’m on a different wavelength than most and I have some of my mentality from when I used to do 400-500. Guys felling trees with a long bar don’t go through chains like I would either so I can see the point on that not mattering as much.

If you got a 288XP for $200, you should have also bought a Lottery Ticket, that was your Lucky Day, around here, where people are familiar with Huskies, that saw would easily have sold for Double that. I see 30 year old 266XP's in Decent shape selling for $350-400 when they come up for sale, personally, I wouldn't sell my 266 for that, which is probably more than I paid for it New, in 91, that saw will Never be for Sale.

The Husqvarna numbering system is SIMPLE to understand, the last Two digits are the nominal size in CC's, with a few exceptions, the 3120XP is a Three digit displacement, and my OLD 23 Compact, Top Handle is a 2.3 CI displacement. The First digit, if it is a 3 digit model# denotes what generation saw that model is, if someone can't understand that numbering, they probably Shouldn't be handling a chainsaw

Now Stihl's numbering system?

Other than the Bigger the number, the Bigger the saw, but I have yet to have anyone explain any Logic, Rhyme or Reason to Stihl's model #'s

I'm Stihl trying to figure out why you think that Huskies are the Hand Cranked, Steel Wheeled Work Truck choice, but I WILL agree that if you are looking for a Reliable saw to Work with, you won't find a better saw, Plenty of working Loggers pay their mortgages, and feed their Families with Husqvarna's, out here in the REAL WEST.

So just what Fancy Bells, whistles and Leather Seats do Stihls have that Huskies are Lacking?

If you Stihl want to Over Pay for a Comparable Saw, Feel Free to Do So, that is your Right


Doug

 

[SamT1]

I would never buy a Stihl branded bar. But when you do need parts from them, better bend over.
.

That’s the beauty of a stihl pro saw you don’t need parts. It’s a tax for folks who screw them up! I bought somewhere between 20 and 30 new stihl saws (036, 360, 361, 440) from 1998 to 2008, never had a failure, never had to put one in the shop, never changed a spark plug even. I have a 440 that made over 400 cords in stock form. The only parts it ever saw were air filter, needle bearing clutch rides on (actually that may have been after 400), lots of rim sprokets, a couple of the clips that hold rim sprokets on, 1 pull rope and a set of starter pawls (right after 400). Compression got down to 120 so I put a meteor piston in it and did some mods. Honest to God the carburetor had never been touched. Heck I never even knew how to tune a carb until I slowed down and quit trading saws all the time. I used to put a couple 100 cords on them and sellem and buy a new replacement. They we’re always less than a year old and brought good money. This one fell off the flatbed and broke the rear handle and beat up the plastic so I never sold it since it worked and wouldn’t bring good money. Used it for years with the handle broke, bought a huztl handle this year since the gas tank started dripping on me.

You know how much money this thing has made me? It’s never even been cussed at because it wouldn’t work. I think I bought it in 07 maybe. Now it’s revamped and ready for round 2. It’s in rotation with a couple other lower hour saws including the husky 288.

 

[SamT1]

If you got a 288XP for $200, you should have also bought a Lottery Ticket, that was your Lucky Day, around here, where people are familiar with Huskies, that saw would easily have sold for Double that. I see 30 year old 266XP's in Decent shape selling for $350-400 when they come up for sale, personally, I wouldn't sell my 266 for that, which is probably more than I paid for it New, in 91, that saw will Never be for Sale.

The Husqvarna numbering system is SIMPLE to understand, the last Two digits are the nominal size in CC's, with a few exceptions, the 3120XP is a Three digit displacement, and my OLD 23 Compact, Top Handle is a 2.3 CI displacement. The First digit, if it is a 3 digit model# denotes what generation saw that model is, if someone can't understand that numbering, they probably Shouldn't be handling a chainsaw

Now Stihl's numbering system?

Other than the Bigger the number, the Bigger the saw, but I have yet to have anyone explain any Logic, Rhyme or Reason to Stihl's model #'s

I'm Stihl trying to figure out why you think that Huskies are the Hand Cranked, Steel Wheeled Work Truck choice, but I WILL agree that if you are looking for a Reliable saw to Work with, you won't find a better saw, Plenty of working Loggers pay their mortgages, and feed their Families with Husqvarna's, out here in the REAL WEST.

So just what Fancy Bells, whistles and Leather Seats do Stihls have that Huskies are Lacking?

If you Stihl want to Over Pay for a Comparable Saw, Feel Free to Do So, that is your Right


Doug

If you compare the 2XX huskys to the 3XX I believe they conceded that they had issues that needed fixed to hang with stihl.
Again I’m not saying they are bad, they are dang good saws, I just can see why the stihl saws are $200 more.

 

[svk]

Now Stihl's numbering system?

Other than the Bigger the number, the Bigger the saw, but I have yet to have anyone explain any Logic, Rhyme or Reason to Stihl's model #'s

Except for the very old models, the number roughly corresponds to the cubic inch displacement of the saw. But it gets inaccurate as more models were introduced. Some are dead on like the 034 being 3.4 CID and many others are kind of close like the 044 being 4.31 CID