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Tim Gardner

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With a tip from Dan House I went down to the kite store to buy a YoYo, a small hand held reel without a hub used for flying kites. The YoYo was the wrong dimensions to be used in the tree with a throwline so I found a better reel. It holds 90’ of line (or 180' of Zing-It) and fits nicely in my line mug. This is so much faster than stuffing and is easy to use. I can pull line off of the reel with it still in the mug, make my pitch and wind it up and stuff it back in. My grapnel goes in the mug without getting tangled in the line.
 
Jerry Beranek taughbt me a nice trick. Use a fly casting reel for you in-tree line. After the line is reeled in, the lock can be set so that the line stays on the reel and doesn't turn inot a mess. When throwing, set the drag, put the reel back in the pouch and toss the bag. You have use of both hands then. I used the trick with a plastic ice fishing reel. That worked great until the reel got smashed. When I opened my pouch at TCI the line was a terrible mess. Now I'm on a hunt for a cheap reel.

Tom
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
Looks pretty slick Tim.
What size line is that? What size ball is that? Do you need all that line in the tree? Is the that the same ball you use on the ground and why or why not?

Mike,

The throw ball is 4 oz I made just for my line mug. I have not needed the extra 4 oz while in a tree. I use an 8 oz on the ground.

I put that much line on the reel/spool because of a tip from JPS. So far I have only needed 40’ but I would not want to be up in a tree and need more.

I have been looking for a faster way to stuff the line back in the mug and I think this is it. I will know more when I have been using it for a while.
 
A trick... (set & return)

I saw this trick in a book once and it's priceless for use in the tree. It's a way to throw a line over a branch that is not directly overhead, then have the throwweight come right back to you. I don't remember what book it was, but it had a great diagram that is easier to understand. Maybe if someone knows where it's from, they can post it here...

So say theres a crotch 10 feet above you and about 10 feet off to the side (so that it's not right on top of you where you could just toss the bag and let it drop back to you). Normally this would take a very light toss and drop. This time, throw a bit harder, so as to overshoot your target crotch. And when you throw, let the rope run through your hands, don't let it go if you normally do that. When the throwweight is past your target a ways (practice iwll tell you how much) you just kinda grab down on the line (that should be running through your hands!) and maybe even give it a gentle tug. Doing this will stop the forward momentum of the weight and get it to drop, pivot around the crotch, and swing right back to you!

It takes some getting used to, but like I said, it's priceless! I used it a lot 2 weeks ago to DWP a row of 4 oaks growing on the shore of Green Lake. After a while, you can do this "set & return" toss to set lines in crotches that are just about equal to your own height and much further away than you could reach with a pole saw!!! Give it a try!

love
nick
 
i like doing that with my karab that holds 2 CMI pulleys i always carry; it works very nicely, and there is enough weight to generally work the line quickly to the ground if need be.

i try to pitch it out and have it 'boomerang' back while trying to quick draw my hand saw for reach on a farther target support.
 
I feel sheepish...

Thanks Tom, I actually have that book and even flipped through it to see if it was in there. I will try to contact "The Man" as he is referred to as by Mr. Chisholm and see if he'd mind if I posted it here.

love
nick
 
If your timing is off and the weight wraps around the branch, you might still be able to use it sometimes to pull yourself over to that side by whipping your end over the wrapped line trapping it. Still wearing my lifeline i have been able to swing/pull myself across on the stuck line, work and swing back on my lifeline, using the once stuck line for rigging. This can be a little tricky and not right for every occasion, but can be worked confidentally, especially if ya don't jostle the line too much if it has a weak 'mooring'.

Another factor about steel vs. aluminum karabs; is that the weight that the aluminum keeps from you, can be used to help short tosses, so i like keeping a steel karab/throwing weight on the ends of my lines in use.

i toss around a lot perhaps; for i am very carefull on my choice of hitchpoints on the load; studying it hard, changing it many times adjusting the torquing, center of load's balance, leveraging support, sweeping arc etc. that each can present. Even playing with some constantly that have an extra legg of tension that rides on the load, sometimes in a torqued position; i believe that these are the most powerful failry horizontal load applications. So, i keep the weight on the end of the rigging line, to make these specific, strategic choices easier/cheaper to make/employ; so that i see fit to work the most positve and correct, even if it requires second guessing/ resetting. Same thing i think with using slings or a split tail; they all lend multi-dimensional, multi use/ flexability in quickly resetable packages, expanding and exercising peak strategies that are more limited by your mind than gear!
 
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Advice from "The Man"

This is from Jerry (or is it Gerry) Beranek's book titled "The Fundamentals of General Tree Work."
Thank you Jerry for allowing me to post this here. If you have any additional tips regarding this topic, please share them!

love
nick

ps-If you want to know the rest of the explanation that follows along with this picture, let me know and I guess I could type it all in.

A note from Jerry:
"...Early in my career I discovered the principal by accident and worked with it until I could develop control. The guys on the crew use to have contests with it. Real trick shot when it works. "
 
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Only thanks to all

Once again, I am rewarded for visiting this site. You guys with the inovations (and time to practice) fill my feeble brain with all kinds of information to help me out.

Keep up the good play, uh, I mean work!

Gopher

:D

"Being rich ain't what it's cracked up to be. It's worry and worry, sweat and sweat, and a-wishing you was dead all the time."
--Mark Twain
Adventures of Tom Sawyer
 
I love to work the throwball around in a tree. A tree with not too much inside sprouts that is. It's like shooting hoops in the driveway.
I pick a target crotch and shoot for it till I hit it, or plan a combo shot like hit the branch below and flip it up and in or over and in, or I'll see how far I can get it to travel horizontally, branch to branch, to branch, to another tree, till I run out of line.

As far as throwing while in a tree I find the "cube" to be great. It opens up great and clips to my belt. It flakes out great and as I pull it back it goes right back in.
 
in tree tosses

As the days go by, I am more and more seeing the value of having a throwline with me in the tree. However, I just have NOT found a good way to carry one with me. I want the best of both worlds: something that is tiny AND easy to flake in to. Right now i am just using a small pouch i bought at rei. it's a mesh bag about 6 inches tall with a stiff rim that keeps it open. It takes about 3 minutes to stuff a 50 foot line. Any tips?

love
nick
 
Hey Nick,

I don't know whether this will help you. I have been using a large wire spool mounted on a post inside a 5 gal. bucket for my main throwline. This pays out like an open face fishing reel. You can then remove the spool from the bucket and wind it up. I also have a smaller spool from a spool gun to a mig welder. This smaller spool would easlily fit inside a line mug. You could possibly work it in much the same manner as descibed above. Hope this is of some use to you.
 
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