Increasing the power of my splitter

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If i have a 9hp rather than an 11hp on it, it should still kick into stage 2, to get thru the real tuff logs tho, right?
 
If i have a 9hp rather than an 11hp on it, it should still kick into stage 2, to get thru the real tuff logs tho, right?

I would think so but you are going to be putting a lot of strain on the engine. If it ends up being too small it is EZ to just put a larger engine on.
 
I agree that it may indeed stall the engine. That's because it'll leave stage 1 around 800 psi, and go into stage 2. To max out the 3000 psi of stage 2, will require a 14hp engine. Without 14hp, the engine will stall. I could either adjust the valve to have it bypass before getting to 3000psi, or I could put on a larger engine. I think I understand.

I think Redneck is wrong however, suggesting that a smaller engine will make it run in stage 2 a lot more than a larger engine.

Stage 2 occurs at 800 psi...regardless of the size engine.

This will be interesting.

You know, almost every splitter I've run, the engines never seem to bog down. That makes me feel that the specs are being very generous when they say how much HP you need. Hopefully 11hp will do me....I don't mind working an engine a little hard, on the tuff logs...but I fully understand I don't want to be working an engine to its max, on every log.

Hopefully it'll be ready by this weekend, and I'll report back.

If any of my logic seems flawed above, I'd love replies.
 
My "flawed logic" comes from the FACT that the engine won't have the power to push the cylinder under small loads, thus causing it to kick into the second stage more often than it should.

But I have been wrong before. I don't jack with it anymore. Overpower it and go!!!!
 
Dan may have the upper hand on this one. I've lost all of my cool links with the computer "upgrade". Do a search on surplus hydraulics, they have a wonderful calculator to figure this.

Also remeber, when it kicks in to the lower stage, it is only running about 1/4 the flow it normally runs (22gpm divided by four = 5.5gpm, lots easier to push), that is the beauty of a two stage setup. more power and faster cycfle times with the smaller motor.
 
22gpm at 800psi....
hmmmmm

That just doesn't seem like much. I should think a 5 or 6hp engine could do that. Treeco, are you thinking that my engine will bog down, thus declining from 22gpm?
 
ok guys....i've changed my mind. I just got a good deal on a 13hp Honda engine, so I'm gonna strap that on my new splitter, rather than the 9hp. That's 1 hp shy of the rated 14hp. Better....but is it gonna be enuf?
 
Hold on...i just re-read what you guys wrote. With a 22gpm pump, I only need an 11hp engine...so I should be golden with the 13hp. Cool....now I feel better.
 
The amount in gallons per minute has nothing to do about shifting the pump into low speed.That valve will shift whenever the pressure hits the setting irregardless of the flow rate.

If the horsepower rating is a few below what it is supposed to it will or could bog the dickens out of the engine,not neccesarily stall it.If this be the case and the transfer setting can be adjusted,do so to a lower setting,say 4 or 5 hundred pounds instead of 800.It just won't cycle as fast but will work.

I've seen splitters that used a straight cutting blade rather than a wedge that worked just dandy at 5 horsepower.The cycle time was fine unless it was splitting old gnarly stuff which of course slowed it down a great deal.
 
what do you guys think of that 5hp elec. motor, matched with a 22gpm pump, on the electric side of this splitter?
 
From what I have read on this fourm, a 5hp electric is equal to 12.5 gas. Also have found that 2hp electric should be used with a 11gpm pump, A 3hp electric on a 16gpm pump. So a 5hp for a 22 sounds right on to me.
 
what do you guys think of that 5hp elec. motor, matched with a 22gpm pump, on the electric side of this splitter?
I'll let you know in a few days because strange as this sounds I'm going to try it myself.I had a little 3 1/4" baby splitter given to me,last week,minus the engine that uses a single stage pump.It might work as it has a cutter instead of a wedge.The motor is a 3450 rpm single phase which in reality is really only about 2.8 actual HP by the amperage draw.One thing about an electric motor,they always start and you don't run out of gasoline .
 
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I have a similar issue, but its the opposite, I have a splitter,
home built by someone, it has an 18.5HP Wisconsin THD engine
and a 10gpm vickers pump. The piston has a 2 1/2 rod, 5 1/2
bore and about a 4' stroke, its slow but mostly unstoppable.
I'd love to have it be fast and unstoppable.

My cousin has an 8hp with a dual stage pump, it seems
pretty nice. What size of pump could I spin? Are the
northern/haldex pumps decent?

I'd imagine that it would be prudent to upsize all of the hydraulic
hoses to reduce the restrictive flow. I think they're 3/8 id now and
would imagine 1/2 - 5/8 would be much better.

Thanks!

-Jason
 
Hyd. pump

That Wis. could spin a 22 gpm. pump with no problem, just make sure you have a reservoir big enough to handle it...rule of thumb is the tank should be as big (gallons) as the pump (ie. 22 g.p.m.)
 
Thanks for the info, the tank capacity, is that for cooling? This
engine has a massive fan on it and blows a tornado, I was thinking
of adding a bypass cooler in the return line and stealing a little
air from the engine blower shroud. I think my tank capacity is about
10 gallons at the moment.

I need to find a local hyd shop to overhaul the ram, its leaking on
on the end seal a little.

The ram has some odd fittings on the fluid end, blocks with
what look like 2 pressure regulators that have what looks like
a relief line going over to the other side. Guessing it might
be to prevent overload in its original environment.


-Jason
 

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