Index marking on Alaskan height adjustment

[Boon]

Was looking at changing the height adjustment from inches to centimeters on my Alaskan mill plus make them a bit longer.
I got a price to have it professionally done with laser but it's too many $$ for me and would like to know if anyone has suggestions or options for marking steel increments

 

[kimosawboy]

Spacer blocks that are colour coded work well..

 

[JohnWayne]

Just get some rule tape and apply it. Like the kind for miter saw stands and table saw fences


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[rarefish383]

The rule tape is a good idea. I think I might try some in inches on mine. Eyes getting older I can't see those lines for beans, Joe.

 

[Boon]

Just get some rule tape and apply it. Like the kind for miter saw stands and table saw fences

Thanks for the reply. I have searched for this but can't find and am not sure what a table saw fence looks like.
The markings on the mill now are engraved, possibly by laser and there is quiet a bit of vibration going on where the mill clamps to the height adjustment, would the markings wear off?

 

[BobL]

Thanks for the reply. I have searched for this but can't find and am not sure what a table saw fence looks like.
The markings on the mill now are engraved, possibly by laser and there is quiet a bit of vibration going on where the mill clamps to the height adjustment, would the markings wear off?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/990177-K...Metric-3-5-Metres-Left-to-Right-/141587640067

 

[Boon]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/990177-K...Metric-3-5-Metres-Left-to-Right-/141587640067

thanks Bob

 

[Iron Roots]

Ive barely broken in my alaskan mill and I already realized that sooner than later id have to address the fact that the etched measurement markings are already getting harder to read.

I would think applying the rule tape would only be a temporary fix but im looking for long term.
I plan on using a dremel to etch the lines deeper into the metal and then will probably buy metal "stamps" (like a cener punch with numbers on the end) to stamp in new numbers

I dont think ill get around to this for a few weeks at least but if you do it before me Boon let me know what you come up with!

 

[Boon]

Yes agreed, the tape is an excellent idea and easy but the vibration/clamping would wear it out pretty quick. Was also looking at a dremel, not sure what prices are like in the US but on ebay here they are asking close to new price for 2nd hand. Will give the numerical stamps a go as I have some but am wondering if the pressure of punching will warp the SHS profile. Other than that I might try engraving the numbers with the dremel.

 

[BobL]

Yes agreed, the tape is an excellent idea and easy but the vibration/clamping would wear it out pretty quick. Was also looking at a dremel, not sure what prices are like in the US but on ebay here they are asking close to new price for 2nd hand. Will give the numerical stamps a go as I have some but am wondering if the pressure of punching will warp the SHS profile. Other than that I might try engraving the numbers with the dremel.

What spacing between the marks are you after?
If it is just cm then you can cut these straighter than with a Dremel with a small, I think Eclipse calls them a Junior, hacksaw.
To more easily index the marks gaffer tape a length of M6 all thread to the corner of the SHS and use that as a template.,
M6 coarse has a 1mm thread spacing of 1mm so every 10 of those is one cm
M16 coarse has a 1mm thread spacing of 1mm so every 5 of those is one cm.
The M16 would be easier as the blade will easily fit between the threads.

We have a metal engraver at the mens shed - pity you are not closer otherwise we could have engraved the marks very easily with that.
Or we could use my indexer that I use to cut handsaw teeth.

 

[Boon]

What spacing between the marks are you after?
If it is just cm then you can cut these straighter than with a Dremel with a small, I think Eclipse calls them a Junior, hacksaw.
To more easily index the marks gaffer tape a length of M6 all thread to the corner of the SHS and use that as a template.,
M6 coarse has a 1mm thread spacing of 1mm so every 10 of those is one cm
M16 coarse has a 1mm thread spacing of 1mm so every 5 of those is one cm.
The M16 would be easier as the blade will easily fit between the threads.

We have a metal engraver at the mens shed - pity you are not closer otherwise we could have engraved the marks very easily with that.
Or we could use my indexer that I use to cut handsaw teeth.

Thanks Bob was thinking every full cm and a mark for half cms.
Once again I like the setup, you definitely have the ability to think outside the box - You'd be a dangerous man if used for other means
I understand what you are saying about the dremel, every picture I have seen shows a cutting wheel that is smaller than the diameter of the dremel body.
Will have a look for the junior hacksaw if not I know someone who has a clamp to fit an angle grinder so it can be used as a drop saw. There is an ultra thin cutting wheel sold which I may be able to use to score mark. Want to build a frame also for use on smaller logs so will need to replicate this marking a few times.
Yeah its a bit further than a stones throw away and appreciate the offer

 

[BobL]

Thanks Bob was thinking every full cm and a mark for half cms.
Once again I like the setup, you definitely have the ability to think outside the box - You'd be a dangerous man if used for other means

Cheers B.
Check out what I was doing last weekend in my shop made mains gas powered black smithing forge.
Annealing a 35 lb hard steel ingot for a mate of mine. 1080ºC for 30 minute - soft as butter after that.

I understand what you are saying about the dremel, every picture I have seen shows a cutting wheel that is smaller than the diameter of the dremel body.
Will have a look for the junior hacksaw if not I know someone who has a clamp to fit an angle grinder so it can be used as a drop saw. There is an ultra thin cutting wheel sold which I may be able to use to score mark.

Got that covered too.
This is a variable speed thin kerf cutting wheel attachment for a 1HP 3P grinder that I made a couple of weeks back
All the shiny plate is scrap SS.
Table height can be adjusted to expose minimal blade - it would cut your markings in a few seconds..

Underneath shot

 

[Boon]

Cheers B.
Check out what I was doing last weekend in my shop made mains gas powered black smithing forge.
Annealing a 35 lb hard steel ingot for a mate of mine. 1080ºC for 30 minute - soft as butter after that.

That's some serious annealing there, what's your mate going to do with it?

Got that covered too.
This is a variable speed thin kerf cutting wheel attachment for a 1HP 3P grinder that I made a couple of weeks back
All the shiny plate is scrap SS.
Table height can be adjusted to expose minimal blade - it would cut your markings in a few seconds.

Nice fabricating...again! Looks a bit like the saw I use in my setup for faceting stones but not adjustable.

Bob would you consider making a few posts for my mill? & if so what would you charge? I checked postage from WA to Sydney and its roughly $25.00 for two posts 400 long which is ok.
The existing posts are 25.7 mm approx, which means its inches extrusion. Not sure how 25x25mm would perform in the mill where its clamped so far as play while milling goes, I would want to have new posts in gal made.

What do you think?

 

[BobL]

That's some serious annealing there, what's your mate going to do with it?

I have no idea, he's our residential metal turner at the mens shed. He's 85 with 70 years of turning experience and still turns a small amount of specialised stuff for special clients.

Nice fabricating...again! Looks a bit like the saw I use in my setup for faceting stones but not adjustable.
Bob would you consider making a few posts for my mill? & if so what would you charge? I checked postage from WA to Sydney and its roughly $25.00 for two posts 400 long which is ok.
The existing posts are 25.7 mm approx, which means its inches extrusion. Not sure how 25x25mm would perform in the mill where its clamped so far as play while milling goes, I would want to have new posts in gal made.
What do you think?

I'll PM you about this.

 

[Boon]

So today as I'll be needing it asap got some done. I used a 1.5 mm drill to mark the spaces and got hold of an air die grinder that conveniently holds a 1/8 dremel engraving bit. Its not as flash as a brought one but should work in metric . Took only a few hours to mark, drill and engrave. Engraving is not as easy as it seems, glad I'm not a jeweler, the bit could have been smaller but that's all the hardware stocked. Pick faults with it please it ain't perfect. Next time might try to find a chuck that will hold a smaller drill bit but this way seems easier than grinding and cheaper than the laser. Hope this helps if you have a similar idea.