Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!
- Thread starter Fyrebug
- Start date
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laynes69
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's the nature of the beast. If your pipe is plugging, then burn hotter fires. An 8" chimney can plug just as fast. With our furnace, we have a 5.5" chimney and it stays very clean.
I have a steel roof. I couldn't walk on mine in the winter because I would slide off and either be severely injured or worse. Snow and ice don't even stick to it for long. After using the sooteater I'd never use anything else to clean it because it is so simple.
It has only been a day since I have had mine installed, but so far it seems like it is burning much better. I was curious so I emailed SBI and asked if the new door is supposed to stay open a crack or if I just got a faulty door. Ill report back when I receive a reply. Im going to keep track of how it burns the next few days also to see if they new door makes any difference.
That is how mine has been burning. Honestly it's burning almost too good. It was below zero here last night and it was 76 in my house. Thermostat isn't really regulating it because it is now throwing so much heat.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Does it seem to have affected burn time?
Actually no. I've been tracking reload time, heat time, outside temp, and inside temp on a spread sheet and I will post it here in a few days. But so far I'm getting right around 8 hours with out the temp dropping below 70 in my house.
It seems to be burning gases a lot longer now. Before it seemed to choke down so tight then wasn't much of a flame, now the flames are more
Lively so to speak. It keeps the chamber hot so when the thermostat turns on it doesn't take long for the blower to start which brings the temps
Up and it shuts the damper door. Only time the stack temps go above 225 are when the damper door is open but that is for a short time. I run 2 temp gauges, one the sticks onto the outside of the pipe and a internal probe. So mine seemed to improve with the new damper door.
Lively so to speak. It keeps the chamber hot so when the thermostat turns on it doesn't take long for the blower to start which brings the temps
Up and it shuts the damper door. Only time the stack temps go above 225 are when the damper door is open but that is for a short time. I run 2 temp gauges, one the sticks onto the outside of the pipe and a internal probe. So mine seemed to improve with the new damper door.
Hey can you measure how far your damper door stays open? This is how far mine is.
That's the way it was. I sent an email to SBI asking them if it was supposed to be that big of gap.
When I put the silver metal on my stove I hade to real push on it to get it tight. The tabs that hold it on have to be bent tight. I think I used a needle nose pliers to get mine tight. My fingers were not strong enough to pull it tight. Hope this helps.
byron2
ArboristSite Member
Well I guess the question is where is it suppose to be....they are making changes to the stove and giving no info as to why .....I 'm assuming they built this stove to work as is out of the box assuming owners meet the set up spec's ..... The more I learn about these things the more I dislike ....no control over the secondary burn at all seems dangerous to me if the blower motor quits the thing is going to get super hot .....now I know where the inlets are and if I were here and not sleeping I can block them off and shut down the air feeding the tubes .... I'm just venting here Flotek but if they are making changes because of flaws they should be informing us due to the potential safety issues involved.....
I'm just thinking out loud with my comment ...as for me putting a Baro on a wood stove goes against my grain for a few reasons but I will be adding one to at least have control over the draft ...
I emailed SBI regarding the damper door and from the sounds of the email they aren't even sure. First they said it should be shut all the way and than they go on to say that the door design may be different. I'm just going to leave it where it is. I also made a comment to them that they should come here to the forums and read some of the comments and their reply was that I should refer people to email them at [email protected]
byron2
ArboristSite Member
Thanks man my next move is the baro picking it up today
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Why? 98% of the wood stoves made today have none, and no blower to cool it either
Most of your better wood furnaces recommend, or even come with 'em. Gotta control the draft some way, either a baro or a key damper. If draft is controlled and the high limit switch is working, the furnace should never overheat...power or not (well, unless the duct system is poorly designed (no gravity heating)
Unless you have the recommended backdraft dampers installed than it will more than likely overheat. I've thought about this numerous times. I'd like to pull then out, but don't want my LP furnace blowing into it if it turns on.
Why would you need adjustable secondary air ? If it needs more heat the flap opens and closes to regulate the air and that's all the adjustment you need . No sense in over complicating a simple process ..as far as being able to shut it down if it gets too hot or power goes out -it already does all that by closing the air flap down in either case . For 1699 I don't think you'd find anything on the market comparable with these features . Yeah there's some refinement details that could be better but you are not going to get a corvette on a cavalier budget. You could barely buy a hotblast aka woodblaster heap of junk -for the tundra price
