SteveSr
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Once it kicks, take the choke off and pull until it starts...
Is there a way this 71 yo man can start his new 250 stihl chainsaw?
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Not quite sure about the 250 but I just changed over an 018 and it didn't require a flywheel. I looked on ebay a minute ago and all the 250 flywheels looked the same, but the 171, 181, 251 had the pawls on the flywheel so those models would need a flywheel plus the cover.
SteveSr
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The issue with the flywheel change is the way the spring mechanism works with the flywheel. The wind-up one is also wider so you also have to change the wrap handle. This makes swapping even more expensive.
Yeah, that's true, I've only changed them from easy start to manual, which is what most people want. No need to change the handle for that...
Ms250's can be difficult to pull over when they're new. The small recoil pulley doesn't help this any either. However, once they've had several tanks of gas through them and are broken in they get considerably easier to pull over.
RIGHT!!! Would you explain that to mine? I think it missed the memo.
If I'm still running saws in much 70's, I'd probably m
Remove/modify the pull start and use a drill with a ratcheting adapter and socket fit right in the flywheel nut. Easy peasy!
Remove/modify the pull start and use a drill with a ratcheting adapter and socket fit right in the flywheel nut. Easy peasy!
I'm not quite sure what this actually says.
I think Stihl should simply change the name of the E-Z Start system on the 250C to E-Z Flood. That might solve lots of problems with owners who have operated 025s and older 250's (or any other Stihl saw for that matter).
I think the idea is that if your 025 is hard to start assume it's flooded. When I buy a Small Stihl saw I generally change the carburetor on it to a fully adjustable one. I can't remember if the 250 has got the adjustable carb or not, but I know the 018, 180 does not.
it has a fully adjustable carb, I got the easy start ms250 powerhead to crank on a dime and run great so i'll offer that to him as a solution
I looked it up and it appears that some 250s have fully adjustable carbs and some do not...
My current 250 has the adjustable carb which needed a HUGE change in tuning after I did the muffler mod. The change in power was so dramatic it felt like I had a 30 percent power gain over than what I started out with.
Mine was a rebuild with aftermarket parts, I suspect it broke in sooner than a stock saw would and which made it easier to pull over than when new.
Some saws seem ridiculously hard to start even after a long time of use, I have an homelite XL1 that's a real bear to pull over, and seems that has it no intention to get any easier in the future.
Most complaints about the 250 seem to have to do with flooding though, the ones I have worked on so far had the adjustable carbs which seem to be fairly large considering the displacement of the saw. Maybe this makes the saw finicky about tuning in their stock state. I never left the mufflers stock on my samples, they seemed to run so poorly because they were choked up so much and could never use their full flow potential.
I suspect that these saws will never run the way they should unless the mufflers are set up to flow properly. Not that hard to do, and there are some good threads about how to do it here.
Mine was a rebuild with aftermarket parts, I suspect it broke in sooner than a stock saw would and which made it easier to pull over than when new.
Some saws seem ridiculously hard to start even after a long time of use, I have an homelite XL1 that's a real bear to pull over, and seems that has it no intention to get any easier in the future.
Most complaints about the 250 seem to have to do with flooding though, the ones I have worked on so far had the adjustable carbs which seem to be fairly large considering the displacement of the saw. Maybe this makes the saw finicky about tuning in their stock state. I never left the mufflers stock on my samples, they seemed to run so poorly because they were choked up so much and could never use their full flow potential.
I suspect that these saws will never run the way they should unless the mufflers are set up to flow properly. Not that hard to do, and there are some good threads about how to do it here.
I find that my 250 (about a year old now) is extremely difficult to pull. I injured my hand last winter trying to pull the darned thing, and it’s still not fully healed. Now l use my other, stronger arm, and it’s slightly easier, but its so much harder to pull than the 261. And I can definitely feel it in my left hand, so l need to be careful not to seriously injure that one, too. It’s by far the most difficult pulling saw I’ve ever had over the 20-plus years I’ve been using chainsaws. I liked the ez start on the 250c I once had, but couldn’t stand its crappy chain-tightening system.
Put a D handle on the starter recoil, Also try on full choke pulling the engine over 3-4 times slowly to get some fuel in the cylinder to get the excess oil off the rings
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Another option is to put an Elastostart handle from a ms260/261 on it. I did that to my 034S and 044 with no compression release. Makes life easier on the old joints!
I have sold a bunch of ms250's up here in the last few years.
My experience is the they are fairly easy to start up. we do have to Pull them pretty hard, if a customer goes easy on them, they will flood. I explain them that they need to pull it until it pops... if they pull it once more. The saw will flood.
to be honest, I have more trouble and adjustments to do on the 271's
My experience is the they are fairly easy to start up. we do have to Pull them pretty hard, if a customer goes easy on them, they will flood. I explain them that they need to pull it until it pops... if they pull it once more. The saw will flood.
to be honest, I have more trouble and adjustments to do on the 271's
I'm in my late 70s and it helps me to just drop start the hard to start saws. That was the only way I could start my 044 that didn't have a de-comp...
after reading this thread I think you would be better served with a "timberwolf" ... they costs less and will start... why waste money on Stihls marketing schemes? Or you could just give in and buy a husky... problem solved.... problem staying solved...
It's only gonna get harder to start as it breaks in. Pull it over NO MORE than three times on full choke. Switch to half choke and pull until it starts. I'd recommend installing an elastostart, it will dampen the impulse felt when coming up on the compression stroke. Makes a big difference. Part number 0000-190-3402.
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