Is this too much to ask a saw shop?

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If you work with your saws for a living there's nothing that says you can't order your fuel lines and other rubber parts ahead of time instead of depending on a dealer.

i have seen those fancy s-shaped black stihl fuel lines fail from e10. they soften and collapse in on themselves. they aren't too expensive even from the dealer and one part number will fit a lot of different saws. you can also go the grommet and tygon route when you replace them. my stihl dealer carries the fuel proof (i hope) grommets.
 
i have seen those fancy s-shaped black stihl fuel lines fail from e10. they soften and collapse in on themselves. they aren't too expensive even from the dealer and one part number will fit a lot of different saws. you can also go the grommet and tygon route when you replace them. my stihl dealer carries the fuel proof (i hope) grommets.
Some of those S shaped fuel lines fail just using regular gasoline if you buy the China versions. If you're trying to save a little money on Stihl fuel lines I think Oregon makes a decent one and is cheaper than Stihl. Stens may have one also.
 
The Stihl fuel lines are around $5-7, how much cheaper do they need to be?

Have not had luck with using tygon though the grommet. Either leaks or the filter doesn't move around in the tank like it should so sucks air even with 1/4 tank. Just easier to use the actual OEM fuel line.
 
I believe it's been asked but never answered. Where in MI are you? There are lots of us from the mitten on here and a lot of us work on saws or know of the right local shop to get quality service from.
 
Just for the discussion, I looked up the fuel line and the intake boot, which is that rubber hoop/ring that connects the manifold to the carb flange, and cost only $3. The fuel line assy is @ $10.50

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So using bulk Tygon is out...
 
The Stihl fuel lines are around $5-7, how much cheaper do they need to be?

Have not had luck with using tygon though the grommet. Either leaks or the filter doesn't move around in the tank like it should so sucks air even with 1/4 tank. Just easier to use the actual OEM fuel line.
i agree with you on both. just wanted to demonstrate the YAHOO principle, you always have other options. i have had some luck with grommets and i have seen small stills with stock fuel lines that wouldn't run right when you tipped them on their sides. i like the husqvarna fuel lines better, grommets and spirals. anyway if it comes into my shop it will leave working right. as i said above, i have seen still "s" fuel lines that have failed, turned to putty and collapsed. i don't think they were asian knock-offs. not many hombres around here that get on the internet. we watch cowboy movies on telemundo. que viva john wayne!
 
The Stihl fuel lines are around $5-7, how much cheaper do they need to be?

Have not had luck with using tygon though the grommet. Either leaks or the filter doesn't move around in the tank like it should so sucks air even with 1/4 tank. Just easier to use the actual OEM fuel line.
I don't think our local dealer would sell a fuel line for $5-$7, maybe yours will. I think I paid $5 for the last AM one I bought, not Chinese. I agree with you on the Tygon, I imagine the stock black fuel lines that some saws (like Echo) use would be the best...problem is that nobody around here carries it. I have seen many of the Stihl fuel lines that don't go down in the tank far enough, in my opinion, so when you lay them down in either direction they would starve for fuel plus you have to keep the tank about half full all the time you're using it. The early 024 that I have is that way..
 
I don't think our local dealer would sell a fuel line for $5-$7, maybe yours will. I think I paid $5 for the last AM one I bought, not Chinese. I agree with you on the Tygon, I imagine the stock black fuel lines that some saws (like Echo) use would be the best...problem is that nobody around here carries it. I have seen many of the Stihl fuel lines that don't go down in the tank far enough, in my opinion, so when you lay them down in either direction they would starve for fuel plus you have to keep the tank about half full all the time you're using it. The early 024 that I have is that way..
i've seen the same issues with small stihls. maybe they've corrected the problem... it might help to use a heavier filter. bigger huskies and echos both use a stout black fuel line, spiral in the tank and straight above the tank. i've never seen a problem with them either from e10 or getting the last sip out of the tank.
 
The problem with my 024 is that the line is too short. The filter doesn't come down to the bottom of the tank. The corrected it in the newer version of the 024 by using the curved line but this one is straight but not long enough. I could repair it if I wanted to but I think I'll just leave it stock, I don't use it anyway. I think I checked before and the newer fuel line won't fit on the older version of the saw for some reason.
 
The problem with my 024 is that the line is too short. The filter doesn't come down to the bottom of the tank. The corrected it in the newer version of the 024 by using the curved line but this one is straight but not long enough. I could repair it if I wanted to but I think I'll just leave it stock, I don't use it anyway. I think I checked before and the newer fuel line won't fit on the older version of the saw for some reason.
That sucks. I did one of those little stihls several years ago. My memory is that the old part was one piece molded and dealer sold me a grommet and line. Worked fine. Hasn't come back. I think he got it from his computer.
 
That sucks. I did one of those little stihls several years ago. My memory is that the old part was one piece molded and dealer sold me a grommet and line. Worked fine. Hasn't come back. I think he got it from his computer.
That would be the way to fix it. The old piece is one piece molded line as you said, looks kinda like an oil line for an 029.
 
The 024 is just like the 026, the curved line is used in the newer tank, but the hole is not the same size, so you have to
use the correct line, or redneck-rig it.
 
The line that's on it now is in good condition, just doesn't go into the tank far enough in my opinion. I kinda like to have the filter laying on the bottom of the tank so it can move around when you switch positions of the saw. Probably if I fix it I'll use the grommet and yellow line. Most of these saws I just sell anyway, I only need one or two for the small amount of cutting I do.
 
The line that's on it now is in good condition, just doesn't go into the tank far enough in my opinion. I kinda like to have the filter laying on the bottom of the tank so it can move around when you switch positions of the saw. Probably if I fix it I'll use the grommet and yellow line. Most of these saws I just sell anyway, I only need one or two for the small amount of cutting I do.
well, it's been more than ten minutes ago so my memory can't be trusted but... as i recall, the stihl dealer looked up the part on his computer and it had changed from a one-piece molded fuel line to a grommet and black fuel line. you could check with a dealer and find out for sure. stihl just doesn't trust us mere inferior races with such arcane information as is found in an illustrated parts list.
 
More it's they do a good job of protecting their dealers. Hopefully Stihl won't turn into Husqvarna, Poulan, McCulloch, etc... all once a time ago made great saws and had good dealers, until they sold out to the big box stores.
 
More it's they do a good job of protecting their dealers. Hopefully Stihl won't turn into Husqvarna, Poulan, McCulloch, etc... all once a time ago made great saws and had good dealers, until they sold out to the big box stores.

wazzat have to do with hiding your part numbers? i should be able to find a number on line and call my dealer to ask him if he has it part in stock. also, the quality of stihls has deteriorated just like everyone else and yes they are selling in big box stores. meanwhile everyone is buying parts from asia, where stihl makes them. does that protect dealers? i have a few stihl saws, a great old 036, an 020t, a 460 and an 084, but i'd never buy a new one, over priced, a pain to work on and flippy caps, phooey. meanwhile they screw the guys who buy from them when they need repairs, which is pretty often.
 
We can find out their part numbers any time we want to. If nothing else I'll tear a Stihl saw down and read the part numbers to you...right now the media cat and a few websites have the info..
that's a lame excuse. let me tell you a story. i rescued my 036 from the magnesium dumpster at acme scrap. got it all back together and running great all i needed was and oil pump cover, 1125 021 1200. looked everywhere, nla from stihl for years. finally found an outfit on the east coast that had three in stock. they couldn't sell them to me because stihl won't let them sell stihl parts except to walk-ins. it isn't even a stihl part now. that's something called restraint of trade. don't know about where you live but here all stihl dealers have to close on saturday afternoon and sunday when you actually have time t go to the store, restraint of trade.
 
I think our local Stihl dealer is open all day Saturday but he has other things beside selling Stihl stuff. I'm pretty sure he wouldn't refuse a sale on Saturday afternoon. I'm not making any excuses for Stihl or anybody else, just telling you how it is here. Stihl does seem protective of their manuals and stuff but like everything else we tend to find a way around it.
 
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