Bob Wright
Addicted to ArboristSite
Or wear down over the years. The choke plate on my 1001 was wore off about 1/8" on the one side and the carb body was was as well so bad i couldn't use it anymore...Bob
Is this what Stihl's have come to?
- Thread starter Cliff R
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Or wear down over the years. The choke plate on my 1001 was wore off about 1/8" on the one side and the carb body was was as well so bad i couldn't use it anymore...Bob
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
It isn't really natural to grip the rear handle at that point (before the saw is started) - and it is only needed on Stihl saws as far as I know......
For me it is very natural. My McCullochs all get the throttle locked into fast idle/start by pulling the trigger first. Easy as falling off of a log.....
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SawTroll
Information Collector
I believe it is some time since those were made - which tells me something about the design!
Even Jonsereds did something like it, but that was 40 years ago......:biggrinbounce2:
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I have owned, operated, repaired, rebuilt a lot of saws. I have to say that I never had a problem working the controls on any of them.
Talk about creating an issue when there isn't one. I suppose a clutz could bend the tabs that hold the air filter on any saw that uses them if he was determined enough.
And, if the saw doesn't cut fast enough the very simple solution is, learn to tune a saw, sharpen a chain, or get a bigger saw.
Talk about creating an issue when there isn't one. I suppose a clutz could bend the tabs that hold the air filter on any saw that uses them if he was determined enough.
And, if the saw doesn't cut fast enough the very simple solution is, learn to tune a saw, sharpen a chain, or get a bigger saw.
Something about the design huh?
the fact that alot of them are still around sais something Mr saw troll.
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
SawTroll
Information Collector
It still remains a fact that the design is a bad one, as they should know that many people doesn't read the manual, and doesn't remember everything the dealer said - if he said it.......:biggrinbounce2:
Even if the user got it right, it is still bad to have to grip the rear handle properly at that point!
More importantly, this issue was just a small part of the OP's story on the saw - far from the main point of it!
I don't get this huge arguement, mostly over the master control switch on Stihl saws. I'm no blind following Stihl fanboy, but do you realize you're talking about the controls that are found on more saws than any other brand sold in the last how many years? They must be awefully difficult to operate!:bang: It's all about what you're used to. It's second nature to me. Never think twice about.
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
For real. I can pick up a Stihl, set the brake, set the choke and pull the starter in less than 5 seconds. Those not capable should think twice a out running a saw...
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Does that chain brake disenguage itself? No? Must be a design flaw. It's Stihl's poor design that causes burnt up clutches and cases.:bang:
Fish
Tree Freak
He must have been in a fraternity in college!
Seriously, I have worked on and off for Stihl dealerships for 18 years, and I have seen problems in the areas described above, and I can say that it is a design "weakness", and the company has duly noted and addressed said
"weakness", and the fix may or may not be a great fix, or not.
Either way, it is nothing to get too worked up about, as I could go into
a whole lot more critique of all of the other brands, and all of their fans would
get equally upset, and the mindless posts would go on and on, and on.......
Admitting a problem or weakness is a sign of being realistic, as most
company "reps" are not, after all, they are salesmen........
But believing their tripe without question would be far the greater sin.
I always held the Stihl rep's feet to the fire, long after the FS36 was long
retired, and still today, say something bad about that trimmer, and it would
be one long thread!!!!
But man up girls!!!!! If there is a weak design, have enough estrogen
to allow it into your psyches.
Yes, if over half of the 021-025 air filters have been run loose and let the saw
ingest dirt/sawdust for a while, be a man, admit the design is weak!!!!!!!
Or blame the owner, that works too!
I have talked to Bryan's reps many times about a newish saw that keeps coming back with the control lever popped out, and will not stay in, and
they have authorized a warranty replacement, but I usually do the heat
method and don't file warranty, and the customer is happy, but my dealership
eats my time.
No matter, but we need to keep things real.
I am a "Stihl" man, but I am not a zombie......
Stihl has also had a "HUGE" problem with their fuel lines for the last 10 years,
and blaming the homeowners, oil companies, or whoever, just don't cut it!!!!
But keeping things real, all of the other saw companies have had trouble too,
but it is due to who makes all of their fuel lines, not the homeowners, or
fuel/oil companies.
Nice to see some good information coming out even with "the Wolves circling".
What one needs to consider when you defend a particular part, or parts, and throw a few rocks at the operator, and the messenger in this particular case, is that this is a relatively "low end" Stihl saw, and targeted at the "homeowner", not a professional.
Even though the saw is two years old, it has only a few hours run time on it. WHY would the air cleaner be loose and falling off of in the first place? It was flopping all over the place, as the snaps were spread wide enough only one was attached at any particular time. This would allow a LOT of unfiltered air into the engine if not corrected. The homeowner had never even had the cover off of it till yesterday.
This particular homeowner is a great guy, a good neighbor, and obviously a pretty smart guy with several degrees. He bought a Stihl chainsaw because of the name, and reputation, no other reason. He obviously doesn't use it very often, once or twice a year at most. So back to my original comment/observation:
IF setting or trying to set the choke without pulling the throttle FIRST causes that little spring steel stop to find it's way under the switch, that's just not a good deal all the way around.....IMHO
Then Mr. Homeowner pulls the cover off and starts pissing around with things he has no clue about, and ends up driving to the dealer to get a 30 second lesson in how to put the spring steel part back on top of the switch. Come on guys, Stihl can do better than that.
Does anyone on here really think the owner of a casually used saw is going to pull out the owners manual before trying to fire it up, once or twice a year? I'll bet my next months pay they are going to go right for the choke and the pull cord.
Cripe, Winter would be over before I could even find an owners manual for one of my saws!
For the guy asking about the 028WB, nearly as I can remember the saw was deemed by the dealer to need considerably work (he actually recomended junking it) simply because a spring in the air cleaner was allowing the choke flap to suck shut at full throttle/load. It's been nearly a year since I worked on that saw, but I distinctly remember a small spring and some sort of choke flap as part of the air cleaner assembly. The repair was easy, I installed a new air cleaner assembly, the spring was much stronger and didn't allow the choke flap to suck closed when the saw was in use.......Cliff
What one needs to consider when you defend a particular part, or parts, and throw a few rocks at the operator, and the messenger in this particular case, is that this is a relatively "low end" Stihl saw, and targeted at the "homeowner", not a professional.
Even though the saw is two years old, it has only a few hours run time on it. WHY would the air cleaner be loose and falling off of in the first place? It was flopping all over the place, as the snaps were spread wide enough only one was attached at any particular time. This would allow a LOT of unfiltered air into the engine if not corrected. The homeowner had never even had the cover off of it till yesterday.
This particular homeowner is a great guy, a good neighbor, and obviously a pretty smart guy with several degrees. He bought a Stihl chainsaw because of the name, and reputation, no other reason. He obviously doesn't use it very often, once or twice a year at most. So back to my original comment/observation:
IF setting or trying to set the choke without pulling the throttle FIRST causes that little spring steel stop to find it's way under the switch, that's just not a good deal all the way around.....IMHO
Then Mr. Homeowner pulls the cover off and starts pissing around with things he has no clue about, and ends up driving to the dealer to get a 30 second lesson in how to put the spring steel part back on top of the switch. Come on guys, Stihl can do better than that.
Does anyone on here really think the owner of a casually used saw is going to pull out the owners manual before trying to fire it up, once or twice a year? I'll bet my next months pay they are going to go right for the choke and the pull cord.
Cripe, Winter would be over before I could even find an owners manual for one of my saws!
For the guy asking about the 028WB, nearly as I can remember the saw was deemed by the dealer to need considerably work (he actually recomended junking it) simply because a spring in the air cleaner was allowing the choke flap to suck shut at full throttle/load. It's been nearly a year since I worked on that saw, but I distinctly remember a small spring and some sort of choke flap as part of the air cleaner assembly. The repair was easy, I installed a new air cleaner assembly, the spring was much stronger and didn't allow the choke flap to suck closed when the saw was in use.......Cliff
THALL10326
The Champ
It still remains a fact that the design is a bad one, as they should know that many people doesn't read the manual, and doesn't remember everything the dealer said - if he said it.......:biggrinbounce2:
Even if the user got it right, it is still bad to have to grip the rear handle properly at that point!
More importantly, this issue was just a small part of the OP's story on the saw - far from the main point of it!
Awwwwwwwww but we know your point don't we, yes we know anything Stihl is a bad design, haha.
Sawtroll that design prevents people from choking a hot chainsaw. What does a hot saw do when you choke it, it floods right away unless you have ran it bone dry. When the saw is hot you don't need to grab the back handle to set the switch to start. You have to squeeze the trigger only to choke it. That makes it what, a great design, which is why its been on just about all Stihl saws since the 70's, yes from the little saws all the way up to the 880, all have that same design. It will continued to be used for reasons I just pointed out, it works.
One thing is for certain, when theres much to do over nothing concerning a Stihl you will be there beating the drum, thats why I like ya ole chap, I get to correct you,:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
CentaurG2
Addicted to ArboristSite
Go team stihl!
It still remains a fact that the design is a bad one, as they should know that many people doesn't read the manual, and doesn't remember everything the dealer said - if he said it.......:biggrinbounce2:
Even if the user got it right, it is still bad to have to grip the rear handle properly at that point!
More importantly, this issue was just a small part of the OP's story on the saw - far from the main point of it!
SCREW the main point.
If a guy has half a brain, he knows checks in the 2 stroke starting list. He should. . .
These so called design flaws are nothing more that a few ********* that probably #### up everything they touch. . . . .
THALL10326
The Champ
Go we do baby, Cent am I getting your vote? Remeber Cent, your voting for someone who knows how to start a saw no matter what type of switch it has, that should account for something compared to what I'm reading in this thread,:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
Muffler Bearing
"Support Our Troops"
Very well thought out post and clearly stated.
Fish
Tree Freak
So instead of discussing this thread, you all just want to fight with Sawtroll?
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
The guy that jacks up his MCL is the same guy that would carry a 1911 cocked and locked, then wonder why he got hosed in a gunfight because his piece wouldn't go bang when he pulled the trigger.
If you are the type that needs to RTFM but don't have the time....punt...
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If you are the type that needs to RTFM but don't have the time....punt...
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Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
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