Jon cutter 25cc top handle

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DougMN

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
122
Reaction score
24
Location
minnesota
Looking for the differences Between a Jon cutter 25.4 cc top handle and the 25.4 cc top handle that just says chain saw on the side and is red and says w900 in the listing on ebay. The red one shows 2 bar nuts to the Jon cutters 1. Anyone have experiences with either one. Thanks
 
I got the john cutter 2500 and the neo tec 2500

About the Jon
I have about 15 tanks through it. Put the narrow kerf .043 bar on it and it works well.
The single bar nut can allow the bar to slip down if you cut under a limb ( pulling up on saw) putting the chain too tight. Too much play in the bar position.
The clutch can squeal a bit on first start up. Not enough clearance? I fix it by putting a little bar oil in one hole on the spur spocket, letting is soak through to the clutch bearing.

So far i have no problems. Have cut with the bar buried and it's good.

The neo tec appears stronger and slightly better built to me. It has a very open muffler and is loud.
 
Tha
I got the john cutter 2500 and the neo tec 2500

About the Jon
I have about 15 tanks through it. Put the narrow kerf .043 bar on it and it works well.
The single bar nut can allow the bar to slip down if you cut under a limb ( pulling up on saw) putting the chain too tight. Too much play in the bar position.
The clutch can squeal a bit on first start up. Not enough clearance? I fix it by putting a little bar oil in one hole on the spur spocket, letting is soak through to the clutch bearing.

So far i have no problems. Have cut with the bar buried and it's good.

The neo tec appears stronger and slightly better built to me. It has a very open muffler and is loud.
Thanks for your reply echo. I wonder if the neo tec is the same as the chainsaw brand?
 
The neotec and the "chainsaw" chainsaw appear to be the same saw. I have a "chainsaw" and a proyama. They both have two barnuts. I would not have one nut, given the choice. The proyama has one exhaust hole, the chainsaw has two. My chainsaw has a two piece clutch side plastic (kinda rare for them) and so does the proyama. Easier cleaning with a scrench. The proyama plastics might be a shade better, or not. The plastics are not exactly the same between the saws. They run about the same, which is excellently. I have roughly 30 tanks through the proyama and maybe 10 through the chainsaw. I bought the chainsaw after I realized how utterly handy the proyama is. I never want to be without one of these little rascals. The chainsaw has a spring assist starter, which works well. The proyama does not. The filler holes on the proyama are level with the surrounding plastic and are not big "dirt wells". Neither saw has that annoying looking protuberance on the front attached by a couple of Phillips screws. I think the fuel and oil tanks on mine are bigger than the joncutter (?).

Both of mine start, oil, and restart perfectly. They also tune properly. I cannot get excellent throttle response. They run like a farm saw, not a prosaw. Which means they are surprisingly torquey buggers that can pull a full bar thru hard, dry aspen like nothing. The chains are decent, come from the factory actually sharp! and are perhaps a wee bit softer than an Oregon chain. I like them.

Anyway, I gave one a try. I saw the proyama had two bar nuts, no protuberance on the front, a two piece clutch-side cover and no dirt wells around the filler holes. It also came with two chains. So I bought one, wondering if it was a wise choice. I couldn't be happier. It's a toss-up between the chainsaw chainsaw and the proyama. I would buy either again.

I probably cut a couple of cords of firewood with the proyama last summer. It's just so handy to carry on a quad or tractor.

Hope this helps.
 
The neotec and the "chainsaw" chainsaw appear to be the same saw. I have a "chainsaw" and a proyama. They both have two barnuts. I would not have one nut, given the choice. The proyama has one exhaust hole, the chainsaw has two. My chainsaw has a two piece clutch side plastic (kinda rare for them) and so does the proyama. Easier cleaning with a scrench. The proyama plastics might be a shade better, or not. The plastics are not exactly the same between the saws. They run about the same, which is excellently. I have roughly 30 tanks through the proyama and maybe 10 through the chainsaw. I bought the chainsaw after I realized how utterly handy the proyama is. I never want to be without one of these little rascals. The chainsaw has a spring assist starter, which works well. The proyama does not. The filler holes on the proyama are level with the surrounding plastic and are not big "dirt wells". Neither saw has that annoying looking protuberance on the front attached by a couple of Phillips screws. I think the fuel and oil tanks on mine are bigger than the joncutter (?).

Both of mine start, oil, and restart perfectly. They also tune properly. I cannot get excellent throttle response. They run like a farm saw, not a prosaw. Which means they are surprising torquey buggers that can pull a full bar thru hard, dry aspen like nothing. The chains are decent, come from the factory actually sharp! and are perhaps a wee bit softer than an Oregon chain. I like them.

Anyway, I gave one a try. I saw the proyama had two bar nuts, no protuberance on the front, a two piece clutch-side cover and no dirt wells around the filler holes. It also came with two chains. So I bought one, wondering if it was a wise choice. I couldn't be happier. It's a toss-up between the chainsaw chainsaw and the proyama. I would buy either again.

I probably cut a couple of cords of firewood with the proyama last summer. It's just so handy to carry on a quad or tractor.

Hope this helps.
Holeycow, that's for the detailed comparison. It is very helpful.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top