Float needle.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Jonsered 2159c idling tuning issues
- Thread starter Pastornater
- Start date
-
- Tags
- carb jonsered 2159c problem
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Well if you are that energetic, the level setting is good on a that waldro carb at the same level as the top of the carb I beleive they are a slight under.Take top plate off and slide a flat edge back and forth over the lever.
If its too high them fuel will free flow when you tighten it back down. More common with those carbs in the north country is the diagrams stretch it appears and they starve. I can usually get them going again by lifting slightly above top of the carb.
If its too high them fuel will free flow when you tighten it back down. More common with those carbs in the north country is the diagrams stretch it appears and they starve. I can usually get them going again by lifting slightly above top of the carb.
crabby cooter
ArboristSite Operative
this should help with your problem
Pastornater
ArboristSite Lurker
I just r
Interesting I may work the weekend but I think the answer is in the video
Pastornater
ArboristSite Lurker
So upon closer inspection my hindered cs2159c has a zama carb, but the site I ordered from only had the walbro hda kits. I couldn't use a lot of the gaskets I figured they were extras for other model variations.
But the issue I'm running into is that I am having a hard time finding that carb listed as a part for my saw. I can find a kitt for the carb but do you think I'm not looking hard enough or is it possible that the dealer I bought the saw from did a switcheroo on the carb?
But the issue I'm running into is that I am having a hard time finding that carb listed as a part for my saw. I can find a kitt for the carb but do you think I'm not looking hard enough or is it possible that the dealer I bought the saw from did a switcheroo on the carb?
Jonsered number 505 20 30-01
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Pastornater
ArboristSite Lurker
Ya I saw the c3 stamped on it... I guess I have learned to not assume that one model only used one carb type
Thats for sure.most use zama or walbro
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Pastornater
ArboristSite Lurker
Ok so I put the right carb kit in, felt really good about it. Same problem. I made some videos of it being started. The videos were made with the high and low screws 1 turn out. I tried adjusting the Low screw and it doesn't do much difference untill it's almost all the way in, then it kills it.
Link to videos:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B1xc1tn9xo73X0NzMU44VzVnRVU
One video is staring it without hitting the throttle to idle down, one is with hitting the throttle to idle down and one is feathering the throttle to try and keep it running.
Link to videos:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B1xc1tn9xo73X0NzMU44VzVnRVU
One video is staring it without hitting the throttle to idle down, one is with hitting the throttle to idle down and one is feathering the throttle to try and keep it running.
Your clutch area appears it needs some serious attention also.
I saw the first vid once but I'll check them all out. The sound is one thing but the way it came to a stop say a lot.
I'll have a better look
hear that snap at the end?
I saw the first vid once but I'll check them all out. The sound is one thing but the way it came to a stop say a lot.
I'll have a better look
hear that snap at the end?
Pastornater
ArboristSite Lurker
Ya I was holding the saw low and when it snapped at the end the pull start got me in the nuts pretty good... That never happened before lol
and the ting ting ting ting....
Even if the carb was perfect you still cant set the saw up with a clutch dragging. Its droping the revs so on a low idle the drag stalls it out. that's what is bringing it to a sudden stop.
Maybe the clutch got hot at one point and the springs need replacing, Look at it all for play in the drum and condition of bearing too. Hopeful its the right clutch or not udside down as well. you will be able to see an "off " marking direction and slots to put a screwdriver in. I've had my clutch on my 357 upside down, I've mixed up clutches from my 262, stretched springs, wrong springs. You name it I've probable seen it because I've done it. Mix up top plates on the two different walbro carbs and one doesn't have a vent hole...which I kind of needed... Yeah
One thing...you learn how to trouble shoot. I just need a decent mechanic..lol I don't have much for experience with Zama at all. So the flooding was human error if I understood correctly? I've never had flooding issues with the 3 series husqv & waldro like you mentioned before. Maybe the odd dripping needle so I stand by that that It is always the coil; providing somthing wasn't upside down,out of order or mismatched.
I'll have to read again about the carb. One thing I know about the zama is the single screw plate on them can leak. I've doubled up on gaskets before. I had a 2 oz syringe that I used for testing then for leaks. I would just drop it in a sink of water because that was convenient.
Even if the carb was perfect you still cant set the saw up with a clutch dragging. Its droping the revs so on a low idle the drag stalls it out. that's what is bringing it to a sudden stop.
Maybe the clutch got hot at one point and the springs need replacing, Look at it all for play in the drum and condition of bearing too. Hopeful its the right clutch or not udside down as well. you will be able to see an "off " marking direction and slots to put a screwdriver in. I've had my clutch on my 357 upside down, I've mixed up clutches from my 262, stretched springs, wrong springs. You name it I've probable seen it because I've done it. Mix up top plates on the two different walbro carbs and one doesn't have a vent hole...which I kind of needed... Yeah
One thing...you learn how to trouble shoot. I just need a decent mechanic..lol I don't have much for experience with Zama at all. So the flooding was human error if I understood correctly? I've never had flooding issues with the 3 series husqv & waldro like you mentioned before. Maybe the odd dripping needle so I stand by that that It is always the coil; providing somthing wasn't upside down,out of order or mismatched.
I'll have to read again about the carb. One thing I know about the zama is the single screw plate on them can leak. I've doubled up on gaskets before. I had a 2 oz syringe that I used for testing then for leaks. I would just drop it in a sink of water because that was convenient.
Pastornater
ArboristSite Lurker
Never thought of that. I will mess with the clutch. The flooding could be from in never getting a good run in from starting/roubleshooting so much? Any chance when I replaced ripcord I messed sorting up?
In regards to the carb... That sounds normal. You are going to notice the difference easier going clockwise from 1 turn. If its stalling out due to richening it then that tells me its responding. If you are sure all the pieces are in and in order then just concentrate on the clutch.
-Make sure the drum hole is not ovaled from wear.
Hopefully it will be good to go?
Tunning:
- start back at basic setting again.
-clean filter
-warm saw
-easy to spin chain (,not tight)
Now turn up the throttle so the chain has a steady spin, known as racing mode.
Find the spot where the saw runs fastest and smoothest from there.
It should be clockwise in most NA elevations i believe.Regardless, after it hits the optimum peak it will miss,(sputter) (in the clockwise direction) due to starvation of fuel. Go anticlockwise back to the 'sweet spot'. You can practice going back and forth to ensure you recognize it.
-Turn 1/4 anticlockwise then turn your idle back.
Saw should start first pull warmed up? and the tip should be responsive with the throttle. Lean low setting will give a delayed tip response as well can make it harder to hot start. (1/4 back can be fine-tuned by watching the tip response in different positions but rarely should YOU need too.
You will have to bring your high up too.
Update will another vid
-Make sure the drum hole is not ovaled from wear.
Hopefully it will be good to go?
Tunning:
- start back at basic setting again.
-clean filter
-warm saw
-easy to spin chain (,not tight)
Now turn up the throttle so the chain has a steady spin, known as racing mode.
Find the spot where the saw runs fastest and smoothest from there.
It should be clockwise in most NA elevations i believe.Regardless, after it hits the optimum peak it will miss,(sputter) (in the clockwise direction) due to starvation of fuel. Go anticlockwise back to the 'sweet spot'. You can practice going back and forth to ensure you recognize it.
-Turn 1/4 anticlockwise then turn your idle back.
Saw should start first pull warmed up? and the tip should be responsive with the throttle. Lean low setting will give a delayed tip response as well can make it harder to hot start. (1/4 back can be fine-tuned by watching the tip response in different positions but rarely should YOU need too.
You will have to bring your high up too.
Update will another vid
Pastornater
ArboristSite Lurker
It seems like there is no wobble in it, I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for... The bearings seem right, when I rotate the sprocket via the chain the outer drum rotates independently from the spring clutch. I assume when the saw revs up the centrifugal clutch expands and begins turning the drum which turns the sprocket which turns the chain. Perhaps a dirty break is hanging it up?
Pastornater
ArboristSite Lurker
Also seems to be a lot of bar oil present, mmaybe its leaking? I'll back it down if I get this thing running...
Pastornater
ArboristSite Lurker
Also i realized as I was writing the last post that the drum and clutch rotate independently from each other so I went and checked again and noticed a little wobble in the drum but none in the internal spring assembly
Pastornater
ArboristSite Lurker
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1xc1tn9xo73d2pBWmhpMmtVa28/view?usp=drivesdk
Video of the "wobble"
Video of the "wobble"
