Jonsered 525 base needle settings

[royta]

I'm hoping somebody has the base needle settings, from full closed, for the L and H needles. Once the needles are set to their base settings, how does one go to get a proper tune on the saw? Set the L and H for good acceleration, and the H for slight four-stroking? I'd also like to know how often the fuel and other such lines should be replaced on the saw.

Also, I loaned the saw to a friend several months ago. Today is the first time I've run it since then, and the oil is just dripping out around the sprocket. I'm guessing something is wrong with the chain oiler.

Thanks.

 

[HiOctane]

THe base setting is 1 turn out.Keep the saw four stroking a bit when unloaded.While cutting,she should have the"right sound".The oiler always drips a bit on most of saw due to the air vent of the oil tank,that's a "standard feature" i would say.To avoid it,just unscrew the oil cap a bit to release pressure in the tank.Your oil pump is ok.

 

[royta]

It's not dripping a little bit. It's dripping a lot. When the saw is sitting on a piece of plywood, while I'm trying to tune, it will drip, drip, drip, until I have a nice 6" puddle.

 

[royta]

I stripped the saw down tonight. Pulled the carb off and cleaned everything real good with an air hose. I put it all back together and will run it in the morning. I have a hunch my friend may have had to pull the bar and didn't put the oil guide plates in correctly. At least I'm hoping that's the case.

The oil tank can't pressurize, because it has a itty bitty hole on the side, at the very top of the tank, with an itty bitty cotter pin pushed in. It's kind of a bummer, because it leaks oil out of the hole when you have the saw on the left side.

 

[royta]

Jonsered 525 oiler adjustment & can't get carb to tune

First - OK, the oil is just pouring out around the sprocket. All it takes is five minutes of trying to tune the carb, and oil is just running out from under the clutch cover. I'm not sure what happened when I loaned it out, but this is complete unsatisfactory. Could there be a piece of dirt, or debris, that is inside the oiler, letting the oil just run right through? I've never had a saw torn down enough to get to the oiler, so I've obviously never worked on one. What do I need to do to access this thing?

Second - I set both needles to 1 turn out, and I can't get this thing tuned. I also tried a base of 1.25 out, as per the Walbro WA page on http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/. I can't get it to idle. The only way to get it to idle is to set the L screw at least a couple turns out. But then when you slowly transition the throttle, it will just die. I'm guessing that as the throttle valve passes the secondary or third idle hole, the mixture leans out so much that it just dies. At this point I'm pretty frustrated. I don't want to buy a carb kit and rebuild the carb unless I can get to the bottom of the oiler problem.

I'm trying to locate a used 044, but would like something now to use. I'd sure like some advice.

 

[PES+]

Make sure the bar groove is clean and the oiler hole in the bar is clear. I'll go see if I have a 525 hanging around here so I can eyeball any possible causes for it leaking from the oiler. If it is the type pump I think it is the plug at the end of the oiler shaft may have come out.

As far as the carb goes have you checked your fuel filter and checked your fuel line for cracks or pinches?

 

[PES+]

First run the saw with the recoil down for a little while then take off the recoil and see if there is bar oil in the bottom of the recoil/cooling housing. The oiler hose make have rotted. They are a bit of a PITA to fix but do-able The oiler is inside the cylinder base on these models driven from the mag side of the crank. To replace the hose the cylinder and the base with crank have to come out and great care needs to be taken to reassemble the saw to avoid air leaks.

You may have an air leak already with the symptoms you describe and that may be the carb/cylinder rubber connect.

I have not worked on any of this type in about ten years as they all failed when worked hard due mostly to air leaks with the boot being the most common cause.

 

[royta]

I'll run the saw on it's left side sometime tomorrow and I'll let you know. Would a rotted hose cause large amounts of oil to come out on the right side though? I think I'm going to have to take a real close look at the plates and the bar. I talked to my friend, the one I loaned the saw to, and he said he didn't remove the bar or anything like that. So, it was working fine the last time I used it, I loaned it out, and it comes back dripping oil like crazy. That seems consistent with the rotted hose theory.

I pulled the carb Friday evening and the boot looked to be in great condition. I will admit I was using old fuel, but since this is my only 2-stroke power tool, I didn't want to waste the whopping $3.20 on a gallon of gas until I got the oiler situation under control. It's not like I can pour the gallon of pre-mix in my wife's Honda Odyssey mini-van.

 

[PES+]

A hole in the hose can have the oil run outunder the clutch. If you take the muffler off you can see the brass tube that the hose is crimped to running to the bar mount. IF the hose is bad there will be oil in the space between the cylinder and the case fin that the brass tube bends up over.

To see if the plates are on wrong you can run the saw with the side cover, bar and chain and the plates off and verify that the oil is coming out the oiler hole.

As I said earlier your bar groove and oil hole in tha bar may be plugged. The other thing may be just that he used too thin and oil and it it running out too quickly. It could very well look like it is coming from the clutch as it travels all the way around the bar groove and dumps at the clutch.

 

[royta]

He used 30W, which is what I gave him to use. I believe I read somewhere yesterday, that if no actual bar oil, you should use some 90W gear oil. Am I right or wrong?

I'll pull the muffler tomorrow too. I hope I don't need a new gasket.

 

[PES+]

I wouldn't recommend it.....it is a stinky mildly toxic mess. 30 WT bar and chain or straight 40 or 50 WT in a pinch. The muffler gaskets almost always stay stuck to the muffler in one piece. But check everything else first just to make sure. You also may be able to look down in between the cylinder and the muffler and see if there is bar oil in between if you are worried about the gasket. It doesn't seem to likely the oil would only come out on the clutch side if the hase was bad but it is possible. Don't poke anything down in the space between the case and the cylinder trying to clean out any debris unless you know for sure the hose is bad as you will almost certainly cause the hose to leak.

Just a thought...these oilers are not adjustable and always pump so are you certain that you have an actual problem?

We all get paranoid sometimes and particularly when we loan out tools.

 

[royta]

Oh yes, I guarantee there is a problem. Oil never used to run out like it does now. If the oiler is not adjustable and do always pump, then the problem isn't with the oiler itself, but in the oil delivery...somewhere.

 

[royta]

I pulled the carb and will be bringing it down to the saw shop so I can pick up a rebuild kit. The fuel lines and other hoses look just fine. I'm guessing a quick carb rebuild will get this engine running just fine. Although, I wonder if the piston could use a new ring. Could a compressed ring cause a lack of idle?

Now to the oil problem. The brass tube behind the muffler is in good shape. The area behind the muffler was nice and dry. The plates that go on each side of the bar look good. Obviously there must be a problem with the sealingl, or lack thereof, between the plates and the bar. Instead of only going into the oiling hole, it is running down on the outside of the bar and dripping on the ground. I sighted down the bar and noticed it had a slight bend to it. Maybe there is just enough bend that there isn't a good seal between the bar and the plates. Yes, no, maybe?

 

[PES+]

Sounds like the bar groove is plugged clean it out with a putty knife and also make sure the oiler hole is completely clearEven slight bends are not good for the bar or the chain and may contribute to your oiling issue

 

[royta]

No, both the top & bottom oil hole is open. No plugging whatsoever. I re-read your post, and need to pull the muffler again to look between the case and cylinder. I was only looking in the hollow section behind the muffler.

ETA: If the hose between case & cylinder is rotted, I would need to pull the flywheel off in order to fix this problem, wouldn't I?

 

[royta]

Nice and dry between the fin on the case and the cylinder. Cool deal. It sounds like a new bar is in order. First I'll rebuild the carb though, and make sure I can get it to idle and tune properly.

 

[PES+]

If the hose is bad you have to completely disassemble the saw cylinder, cylinder base clutch and flywheel.

It is a bit ticklish work to re-assemble as there is no gasket between the cylinder base and the lower case so it must be sealed with an extremely thin coating of silicone sealer and great care not to block the oil passages or get any silicon into the pump gears.

 

[PES+]

Good....you lucked out.

Which carb do you have? A Walbro or the Tillotson

I have the kits and new and used bars as well

 

[royta]

It's a Walbro HDA carb. It's cast right on the right side "HDA", with a tiny "3" stamped under that, and a tiny "L4" stamped under the 3.

After pulling both side covers and the top cover off the saw, I'm getting a real good picture on how this thing assembles. Is there a chance there could be an air leak between the case and the cylinder? I imagine I can remove the cylinder from the base without pulling the clutch and flywheel. After all, I'm not pulling the crankshaft in order to seal/re-seal.

 

[royta]

PEST - The area between cylinder and fin off of the case is dry. The oiler is driven off of the mag side of the crankshaft, correct? If the oiler itself were leaking, it wouldn't be able to escape the crankcase, as the crankseals would/should prohibit that, correct? Plus, the oil would have to travel from the left side to the right side, in order to come out behind the clutch. Would you recommend pulling the cylinder to have a look inside? Although, I'd hate to cause a possible air leak when there might not be one at that area.

Are there any other places for the oil to leak at?