jonsered 535

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I have run aftermarket seals for years without any failures.Other people will disagree but I myself have had good luck with them.I just put the top end on a 365 today.I have some of those seals in saws I have run for over 10 years.Truth be known there probably made in the same factory by the same people who make oem lol.
 
Today I had finally enough motivation to put old red back together. Made new cylinder gasket and "new" squish is 0.5-0.6mm. Jons rotates free without sparkplug but when I installed one it became very, very hard to turn. And no, sparkplug does not hit the piston. Compression just was so high.
It was time to measure it just because I was do curious. When needle was showing 16bar (232psi) the gauge broke. I kind of fixed it and tried again. Now cord snapped around 15.5bar.
That 1.6 mm squish may be small enough. Otherwise it is installing stronger recoil starting thingy or drilling a hole for compression release.
 
The recoil pulley has a relatively small diameter and in stock form it does take more effort to pull over. Bumping up the compression certainly may tax the design limits of the recoil.
 
I seem to have worn out oil pump in this old red. Stroke is ok, all lines and pipes are clear but still very, very little oil coming to bar. Piston itself is hard steel but cylinder-kind-of part is brass. Would not be difficult make a new one but my lathe has only 13mm jaws and label Makita 18V on side...
So it is clutch driven pump or manual one. There isn't much space for pump in the clutch area so I do need very flat pump. Since many of you guys have long history with chainsaws I'm asking for knowhow. Suggest me flattest pump you know. OR good source for thumb operated manual pump.
Last option could be crankcase pressure pulses driven oiling system.
If I'm lucky with this I may even use this saw for firewood occasionally, although it is more like therapy thing for a me. Artificial aortha rules out a lot of things but fingers still work.
 
The pump piston has a couple o-rings - are those dried out, shrunk, missing? If not sealing, pump won't work like it should. Any chance the drive gear is worn out?
 
Those o-rings are there, or was it only one. I will replace it and see what it does. Piston is rotating ok, just does not pump so much. As well stroke seems to be a couple of millimeters.
 
Yeah, I have it on max. Even grinded a bit more stroke by modifying piston and adjustment part.
 
Powerwise old red is quite nice. Not a screamer but does not fall to its knees either. Definitely worth fixing and if it needs a new cyl someday it will get something from 346-353.
 
Looking for substitute for part 503 49 35-01.
These saws have "Inbuilt" oilpumps and that part is seal between copper pipe and upper crankcase half.
Some other Husky or Jred might have that same part?
 

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