Jonsered 625 II upgrade with Husq 272xp parts question.

[deezlfan]

I've had a 625 II sitting on the bench for a couple of years and a buddy walked through the door with a 272xp the other day. The 272xp was a victim of a tree falling on it that crushed the clutch, bent the crank and broke the bottom corner off the saw below the bar mount. The rest of the saw is in good condition. I have been reading all the upgrade threads I could find and it seems having the entire top end, carb and linkage with that large muffler make this a pretty simple upgrade. The question is: Will there be any other parts I need? Will I need the taller top cover from a 670? Will there be any location changes/modifications I need to do?

 

[SawTroll]

Bump, I don't know the details, but there are several members that shopuld be able to help you.....opcorn:

 

[deezlfan]

Thanks S T, I know someone will fill me in. Also wondering if I would need a taller front handle?

 

[Cantdog]

I've had a 625 II sitting on the bench for a couple of years and a buddy walked through the door with a 272xp the other day. The 272xp was a victim of a tree falling on it that crushed the clutch, bent the crank and broke the bottom corner off the saw below the bar mount. The rest of the saw is in good condition. I have been reading all the upgrade threads I could find and it seems having the entire top end, carb and linkage with that large muffler make this a pretty simple upgrade. The question is: Will there be any other parts I need? Will I need the taller top cover from a 670? Will there be any location changes/modifications I need to do?

There are quite a few issues to over come. The first is that, though the cyl will fit under the Jonsered top cover fine, the spark plug will not. The Husky plug stands up much straighter than any of the Jonsered spark plugs and the part of the Jonsered air filter cover that has the plug cover made into it is not tall enough.....low or tall cover makes no difference...nor does a shorter plug...won't work unless you cut the plug cover off the air filter cover. Or you can find an entire gray 61 husky cover and that will fit using the 625/630 airfilter setup....after you remove the Jonsered rear cover mounting studs. Once that issue is taken care of....the carb is next. You won't get the full benefit of the 272XP running the carb for the 625.....you should find a 670 carb...however the 625 and 670 carbs are external impulse and the 272 manifold in of the internal type....the easiest and best way to convert is to drill the impulse hole in the carb and change to the solid top cover. You can simply use the 272 carb but you will have no high idle off choke.. all these things can and have been done before and you will really like the saw when finished....just a bit of work...if you want it to look and operate normal....well worth doing..

 

[DSS]

I'm interested in doing this too, I have a 625. What type of carb is a 670? And how do I know how deep to drill it?

 

[Cantdog]

I'm interested in doing this too, I have a 625. What type of carb is a 670? And how do I know how deep to drill it?

A tilly 250A if I remember right.. If you look at the end of the carb...(towards the manifiold) you will see a tiny hole drilled in 3/32" or so at 1:00....... this lines up with the impulse hole in the gasket and manifold....if you take the top off the carb you will notice the chamber in the carb body under where the impulse line enters through the top cover....you need to continue that hole to the chamber. Then either plug the impulse hole in the carb top cover or switch the cover out with one that does not have the hole.

 

[DSS]

Ok. So I don't really need a 272 parts saw? I should be able to just get a top end, a 670 carb and a 61 cover and make it work.

 

[Cantdog]

Ok. So I don't really need a 272 parts saw? I should be able to just get a top end, a 670 carb and a 61 cover and make it work.

And the 272 manifold and the correct carb bolts that fit the cyl..

 

[DSS]

And the 272 manifold and the correct carb bolts that fit the cyl..

And that stuff. It will probly turn into a work in progress, most things do

 

[SawTroll]

There are quite a few issues to over come. The first is that, though the cyl will fit under the Jonsered top cover fine, the spark plug will not. The Husky plug stands up much straighter than any of the Jonsered spark plugs and the part of the Jonsered air filter cover that has the plug cover made into it is not tall enough.....low or tall cover makes no difference...nor does a shorter plug...won't work unless you cut the plug cover off the air filter cover. Or you can find an entire gray 61 husky cover and that will fit using the 625/630 airfilter setup....after you remove the Jonsered rear cover mounting studs. Once that issue is taken care of....the carb is next. You won't get the full benefit of the 272XP running the carb for the 625.....you should find a 670 carb...however the 625 and 670 carbs are external impulse and the 272 manifold in of the internal type....the easiest and best way to convert is to drill the impulse hole in the carb and change to the solid top cover. You can simply use the 272 carb but you will have no high idle off choke.. all these things can and have been done before and you will really like the saw when finished....just a bit of work...if you want it to look and operate normal....well worth doing..

I was waiting for you to step in here! :cool2:

 

[deezlfan]

Thank you guys, It is a place to start.

The top cover problem should be easy to overcome. Either a hybred cover with a bigger hump, a nice NGK plug boot hanging out in the wind or perhaps a custom strip across the top. I'm thinking maybe brushed stainless steel on a red and black saw, Should look great?

You can simply use the 272 carb but you will have no high idle off choke..

I'm not sure exactly what you are saying here. I wouldn't be able to raise the saw to a high idle with the choke off? I assume this is a function of the carb linkage? Once I start a saw I would rarely run it above standard idle till it warmed anyway. Or is it possibly that you can't access an idle screw on the Husqy carb? Just trying to understand the situation. I suppose it is time for me to clean off all the sawdust and get the two set-ups side by side.

 

[DSS]

Thank you guys, It is a place to start.



The top cover problem should be easy to overcome. Either a hybred cover with a bigger hump, a nice NGK plug boot hanging out in the wind or perhaps a custom strip across the top. I'm thinking maybe brushed stainless steel on a red and black saw, Should look great?







I'm not sure exactly what you are saying here. I wouldn't be able to raise the saw to a high idle with the choke off? I assume this is a function of the carb linkage? Once I start a saw I would rarely run it above standard idle till it warmed anyway. Or is it possibly that you can't access an idle screw on the Husqy carb? Just trying to understand the situation. I suppose it is time for me to clean off all the sawdust and get the two set-ups side by side.

It should stay on hi idle till you blip the throttle. Yeah, its in the carb.

 

[Cantdog]

It should stay on hi idle till you blip the throttle. Yeah, its in the carb.

It is in the Jonsereds setup but it is not in the husky, as it uses a thumb catch in the trigger handle....see what I'm sayin here?

On the Jonsered the "cold start" throttle position is automatic when the choke is pulled. It's all done on the carb.

On the Husky you need to squeeze the trigger and lock the throttle in the "cold start" position with the thumb catch as there is nothing on the carb to do this. The choke is only the choke.

 

[Cantdog]

I have pics of this setup on the 61/268XP conversion in my sig......however they are one my desk top which took a dump and windows won't spool up any more......I have lots and lots of pics on that rig.....guess I'll have to take it somewhere and get a pro to pry it open so I can get my stuff off it.

 

[deezlfan]

On the Jonsered the "cold start" throttle position is automatic when the choke is pulled. It's all done on the carb.

On the Husky you need to squeeze the trigger and lock the throttle in the "cold start" position with the thumb catch as there is nothing on the carb to do this. The choke is only the choke.

Got it! Now I understand. Thank you.

 

[BloodOnTheIce]

I attempted it with a 266 SE and various 268/ 272 Parts didn't quite work out.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/214396.htm

 

[spike60]

A compromise on the carb would be to use a H256 from a 630 Super, as it is pulsed through the intake block, yet has the hi idle set with the choke lever. Or, if it's in good shape, the 272 tank could be bolted onto the Jonsered crankcase. Of course, now we're talking about a strange looking saw. Kind of ending up like this one. This was an early 625 that got banged up a bit. Put a 670 top end on it and a Husky 268 tank. I can set the hi idle either way!

 

[w8ye]

The NGK BPMR7F is a tapered seat plug that is a direct swap for the BPMR7A spark plug. The tapered seat plug is much smaller than the gasketed plug. It works fine in the gasketed cylinder. I use the tapered seat NGK spark plugs in my model airplane engines that used the BPMR7A plugs as chainsaws. Same threads and reach. 5/8" flats instead of 3/4".

The local Advance Auto Parts doesn't stock the BPMR7F plugs like they do the 7A's but they have them for me the next day.

Stihl, I don't know if they would be small enough for 625 conversion?

 

[Cantdog]

The NGK BPMR7F is a tapered seat plug that is a direct swap for the BPMR7A spark plug. The tapered seat plug is much smaller than the gasketed plug. It works fine in the gasketed cylinder. I use the tapered seat NGK spark plugs in my model airplane engines that used the BPMR7A plugs as chainsaws. Same threads and reach. 5/8" flats instead of 3/4".

The local Advance Auto Parts doesn't stock the BPMR7F plugs like they do the 7A's but they have them for me the next day.

Stihl, I don't know if they would be small enough for 625 conversion?

Might be worth a try....I know I tried a couple much smaller (shorter) plugs, not sure exactly what Jonsered they were from..... but it is more the angle than the plug. The Jonsered plug lays flatter allowing for a lower cover. The Husky is closer to vertical and that changes everything...cover wise. But as the OP said the plug cover could be simply cut off. I couldn't find a clever way to do it and get the plug cover back up as I wanted a stock looking saw......which didn't happen in the end anyway...

 

[Cantdog]

A compromise on the carb would be to use a H256 from a 630 Super, as it is pulsed through the intake block, yet has the hi idle set with the choke lever. Or, if it's in good shape, the 272 tank could be bolted onto the Jonsered crankcase. Of course, now we're talking about a strange looking saw. Kind of ending up like this one. This was an early 625 that got banged up a bit. Put a 670 top end on it and a Husky 268 tank. I can set the hi idle either way!

LOL That is just the way my 61/268XP is as it has a recirc carb off a 670 on it and is all orange...except the gray top cover

There can be a few other issues too...idle adjustment......depending on which carb you get....depending if it was before the case change from two piece ign to one piece ign. And if the OPs 625II is late enough model that it had the recirc carb.....then he has an extra hole in the gas tank........not deal breakers but stuff to puzzle over...