Walt Galer
ArboristSite Operative
I'm Curious!
How in the heck is running a 1.5mm gauge (.050) chain in a 1.6mm (.058) gauge bar supposed to improve lubrication? I would say the effect should be exactly the opposite!
Personally, if I am trying to milk the max out of a chain and bar, I regauge the bar to called gauge plus .002 to no more than .004. In no way should the next gauge fit, that's reject wear limit for a used bar.
You regauge a bar by tapping the groove down to slightly tight, and then grinding the groove out with a wheel that is called gauge plus .003 for about 2/3 of it's diameter. (Wheels vary a lot).
This operation requires a Hunziker Bar Shop machine and an operator who knows how to do it. The practice is extreemly dangerous, but the result is a heck of a lot better than a new bar.
Almost no-one goes to the trouble to properly re-gauge a guide bar anymore! (Kind of like getting a shop to properly sharpen a sawchain).
In addition, I tighten up the chain articulation just a bit for most chains. The manufacturing tolerance are too loose, if you can extend 20 inches of chain off of the edge of a table top, hold the rivet heads on the section left on the table down flush with the table surface securely, and then you observe the "droop" of the free end to exceed about 12 inches. Many manufactured chains will be far looser than this amount.
You can tighten up a chain assembly a might, but it requires great care. You just respin using a bench spinner, and press the turn or two of the spin enough to head the rivet down a might more. If you overdo the press, the rivet will expand down inside the flange, split the flange (which may already be split from the factory rivet heattreat by the way) and produce a tight joint that can not be repaired without replacement of the part. Because of this problem, this procedure is not recommended for general practice. The lower rivet head contour that results also helps improve cutting speed slightly.
Regards,
Walt Galer
How in the heck is running a 1.5mm gauge (.050) chain in a 1.6mm (.058) gauge bar supposed to improve lubrication? I would say the effect should be exactly the opposite!
Personally, if I am trying to milk the max out of a chain and bar, I regauge the bar to called gauge plus .002 to no more than .004. In no way should the next gauge fit, that's reject wear limit for a used bar.
You regauge a bar by tapping the groove down to slightly tight, and then grinding the groove out with a wheel that is called gauge plus .003 for about 2/3 of it's diameter. (Wheels vary a lot).
This operation requires a Hunziker Bar Shop machine and an operator who knows how to do it. The practice is extreemly dangerous, but the result is a heck of a lot better than a new bar.
Almost no-one goes to the trouble to properly re-gauge a guide bar anymore! (Kind of like getting a shop to properly sharpen a sawchain).
In addition, I tighten up the chain articulation just a bit for most chains. The manufacturing tolerance are too loose, if you can extend 20 inches of chain off of the edge of a table top, hold the rivet heads on the section left on the table down flush with the table surface securely, and then you observe the "droop" of the free end to exceed about 12 inches. Many manufactured chains will be far looser than this amount.
You can tighten up a chain assembly a might, but it requires great care. You just respin using a bench spinner, and press the turn or two of the spin enough to head the rivet down a might more. If you overdo the press, the rivet will expand down inside the flange, split the flange (which may already be split from the factory rivet heattreat by the way) and produce a tight joint that can not be repaired without replacement of the part. Because of this problem, this procedure is not recommended for general practice. The lower rivet head contour that results also helps improve cutting speed slightly.
Regards,
Walt Galer