Sounds pretty good Scott. Make sure you completely rinse/wash away any residue from the simple green. It is a citric acid base and will cause corrosion on bare mag parts. I know this sounds old school but I usually clean in older perhaps questionable gasoline or mix. As far as grease goes....generally just regular good quality wheel bearing grease on the clutch bearing....it's only in use when idling....
I do generally pull the flywheel on a newly acquired saw if it has points ign. File, match, gap the points and lube the felt cam follower. I do this even if it seems to have good spark......once done, chances are you'll never have to go back in there no matter how long you own the saw....
Almost always clean and kit the carb....I don't pull the welch plugs unless it fails the WD test. Pull the H&L needles and with a can of WD40 with the red straw inserted in each hole, and looking down the carb bore you should see two steams coming out the L side idle bleeds on either side of the throttle plate closed position. On the H side should be one stream out the main jet......have to hold the choke and throttle plate open so you cane see good. If it fails you gotta pull the plugs and clean the crap out the clogged passage. This is pretty rare that you would have to do this.....most of the time they are fine.
If the saw then runs decent, and tunes easily, not far off the one turn out initial setting I'd call it good. If not or if it requires massive carb adjustment then a pressure/vac test is in order.
Oh.... I always put a drop of oil on the recoil center bolt too. The bigger the saw the more this point will wear without a bit of lube.
Sounds like you've got it pretty much in hand.....you got some durn pretty saws there!!!!
