Yup I can remember seeing that set up. When I do that I will remember this. So if you look inside my tank from the gas cap you should just see line coming down through the hole and not see any grommet right...
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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I can remember getting springs too but not now. I do have a baby food jar with left over parts that over the years for whatever reason during a rebuild did not get used or replaced. But all that stuff is Walbro . I will say I like that spring for its size and ease of install. It may be long but it is vey soft I really don't see it being an issue. But even if it were a deal breaker I don't see where you can order a spring anyway.Actually, back in the daythe full rebuild Tilly kits had the metering fork spring, the Welsh plugs, the screen, the metering fork, the round holding pin, inlet needle, gaskets and diaphragms. But the spring disappeared from kits decades ago. That's the reason I ordered a bunch of them from ereplacement.com. They seem to last forever, but they do get lost and I had some carb sauce eat one completely!
Kevin
Yep I do believe the previous Bastardo that owned the saw must have at some point put in that line from the inside out and not from outside down !
Has anyone here ever added a section of line to a line by using a "barbed line connector". I was looking yesterday for connectors and Stenz make some but I assume only in one size because they do not show different options nor the size of the one they do sell.
I found a web site something like usa plastics corp or something ? but the site does not seem to work correctly. They did offer many different sizes though. I was looking at 1/8" id 3/32" id and 3/16"id I think? I cannot remember now. I have had the occasion that I would like to add a section of line a few times in my life but have never had the line connectors I would need to do it.
Has anyone here ever added a section of line to a line by using a "barbed line connector". I was looking yesterday for connectors and Stenz make some but I assume only in one size because they do not show different options nor the size of the one they do sell.
I found a web site something like usa plastics corp or something ? but the site does not seem to work correctly. They did offer many different sizes though. I was looking at 1/8" id 3/32" id and 3/16"id I think? I cannot remember now. I have had the occasion that I would like to add a section of line a few times in my life but have never had the line connectors I would need to do it.
Ereplecementparts.com for the spring....find a saw with the same Tilly you have, look at the IPL's for the carb.
As far as the insert connector, it only has to be gas rated and conform to the size of line you are using...metric. We have a big Honda dealer here and I get my line & fittings from him.
Kevin
As far as the insert connector, it only has to be gas rated and conform to the size of line you are using...metric. We have a big Honda dealer here and I get my line & fittings from him.
Kevin
Kensie1988
Vintage Saw Maniac
Finally got the full wrap in, now I can send it off for porting. And I know where two more wraps are lol. Also did someone here buy my 2188 wrap off eBay?
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Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
If it's any help, the metering spring Tillotson PN's are,
HS 218 24B - 299
HS 225 and 256 24B - 323
HS 218 24B - 299
HS 225 and 256 24B - 323
Finally got the full wrap in, now I can send it off for porting. And I know where two more wraps are lol. Also did someone here buy my 2188 wrap off eBay?
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Sweet!!! Looks brand new. Love me the full-wraps as you know...lol.
Kevin
Kensie1988
Vintage Saw Maniac
It looked a lot worse because it got hit with a skid steer haha
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man that wrap looks great you did a stellar job!
Thanks
Just thought I would mention I got my 625 clutch from Chainsawr yesterday. It looks pretty good I have not put it on yet but it came with a nice looking 3/8 sprocket too. I don't remember that was part of the deal maybe they threw it in. In any case it was fast service maybe 4 days from ordering to delivery.
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It looked a lot worse because it got hit with a skid steer haha
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Love the before and after pics....you did a great job on that saw!!! They really take to porting.....you're gonna really like that when it comes back.....gonna run as good as it looks!!!!
Well the 630 issues continue.
At last I posted the saw was here at the shop and running fine. I knew that was a trick nothing for me goes that easy for me at least.
I went out to the woodpile today it started up pretty good but bogged on the throttle so I warmed it up best I could then got out the ever present tuning screwdriver. I messed with the low end a little to get it to rev good from an idle. It did so I started cutting I ran it for about 6 or 7 minutes the shut it off to move some wood I knew that would be the test, would it restart as that was the reason I posted about it last time. So ran the saw 7 minutes tops shut it off waited maybe 5 minutes and went to restart it. It started up on the second pull revved up a little ( like when a saw is running out of gas rev) then quit and that was it. I pulled it over maybe 10 -15 times not even a pop I gave up.
So I used the Dolmar for a tank full and when it ran out I went back to see if the 630 might start. I had it in my head that it may still be flooding so I left the choke off and pulled it 3-4 times just to see if it might start bright up ,nope nothing, so I choked it once or twice and it fired right up. I ran the entire tank out never shutting it off man she ran sweet too. Then it started to rev up I knew it was about to run out of fuel so I shut it off. Immediately re-fueled it and nope no restart pulled it maybe 7-8 times nothing not even a pop. I had rigged up a zip tie that would hold the throttle open for me so I slipped it over the trigger and she fired right up this time anyway. I have a fuel line on the way and I will change that but it runs too good for too long to be the gas line so that will not solve anything other than lighten up my wallet some. I thought of the coil being the culprit but I don't buy it how could it get to warm to run in just 7 minutes on the first run but yet run a 1/2 hour later on with no issue. Nope don't buy bad coil either.....
So it started up with the throttle open. To me that sounds like it was too rich/flooded kind of? But how can it run good for an entire tank of gas maybe 30 minutes or more then refuse to restart if you shut it off? I swear if you connected it up to a 5 gallon gas can it would run great for the entire 5 gallons but if you shut it off and counted to 50 it would not re-start at least not easily?
At last I posted the saw was here at the shop and running fine. I knew that was a trick nothing for me goes that easy for me at least.
I went out to the woodpile today it started up pretty good but bogged on the throttle so I warmed it up best I could then got out the ever present tuning screwdriver. I messed with the low end a little to get it to rev good from an idle. It did so I started cutting I ran it for about 6 or 7 minutes the shut it off to move some wood I knew that would be the test, would it restart as that was the reason I posted about it last time. So ran the saw 7 minutes tops shut it off waited maybe 5 minutes and went to restart it. It started up on the second pull revved up a little ( like when a saw is running out of gas rev) then quit and that was it. I pulled it over maybe 10 -15 times not even a pop I gave up.
So I used the Dolmar for a tank full and when it ran out I went back to see if the 630 might start. I had it in my head that it may still be flooding so I left the choke off and pulled it 3-4 times just to see if it might start bright up ,nope nothing, so I choked it once or twice and it fired right up. I ran the entire tank out never shutting it off man she ran sweet too. Then it started to rev up I knew it was about to run out of fuel so I shut it off. Immediately re-fueled it and nope no restart pulled it maybe 7-8 times nothing not even a pop. I had rigged up a zip tie that would hold the throttle open for me so I slipped it over the trigger and she fired right up this time anyway. I have a fuel line on the way and I will change that but it runs too good for too long to be the gas line so that will not solve anything other than lighten up my wallet some. I thought of the coil being the culprit but I don't buy it how could it get to warm to run in just 7 minutes on the first run but yet run a 1/2 hour later on with no issue. Nope don't buy bad coil either.....
So it started up with the throttle open. To me that sounds like it was too rich/flooded kind of? But how can it run good for an entire tank of gas maybe 30 minutes or more then refuse to restart if you shut it off? I swear if you connected it up to a 5 gallon gas can it would run great for the entire 5 gallons but if you shut it off and counted to 50 it would not re-start at least not easily?
Something that works for me quite often. Pour a little Sea Foam Motor Treatment in 1/2 full tank (a couple of ounces of sea foam). Shake to to mix it in,
Start the saw and run it for 5 minutes or so, shut it off and leave it for a couple of hours or more and then see what happens.
It's really good for cleaning up the carb and doesn't damage any rubber components.
Start the saw and run it for 5 minutes or so, shut it off and leave it for a couple of hours or more and then see what happens.
It's really good for cleaning up the carb and doesn't damage any rubber components.
Have you checked your tank vent?
I will answer both of you here,
I like the Sea Foam idea I have plenty so I will try it. In an empty 5 gallon can I add 5 oz of sea foam and 5 oz of marvel mystery oil then I fill with pump gas. I do this to all my cans but 2 oz in a 1/2 full saw tank would be a pretty rich mixture I will try that it might help.
Tank vent,
I would have to go look at it tomorrow I will take it in the shop. If it is not obvious to me where is the vent located?
I have had one more thought and that ….. a couple tuning sessions ago I noticed something. If you own a 630 you may know what I am talking about or at least I hope you do. I had the air filter cover and the engine cover off the saw and had it running. I moved into a dark area in my shop and I saw sparks. There is a wire black? I think with a ring / loop end on it and this end is slid down over the cover stud closest to the recoil side of the saw. I guess when the engine cover is in place the wire must get pressed down / squeezed against the metal saw casting and provide a ground for the on/off switch???.
I have noticed a couple times when I go to shut off the saw the switch when slid to the right does not always shut off the saw. Could this wire be causing the switch to kill the saw as far as a restart? and more importantly do your 630's have this ground wire set up?
I am figuring it must be carburation but I will entertain any and all advice. Thanks for the responses and I will try the sea foam and check the vent if I can find it.
I like the Sea Foam idea I have plenty so I will try it. In an empty 5 gallon can I add 5 oz of sea foam and 5 oz of marvel mystery oil then I fill with pump gas. I do this to all my cans but 2 oz in a 1/2 full saw tank would be a pretty rich mixture I will try that it might help.
Tank vent,
I would have to go look at it tomorrow I will take it in the shop. If it is not obvious to me where is the vent located?
I have had one more thought and that ….. a couple tuning sessions ago I noticed something. If you own a 630 you may know what I am talking about or at least I hope you do. I had the air filter cover and the engine cover off the saw and had it running. I moved into a dark area in my shop and I saw sparks. There is a wire black? I think with a ring / loop end on it and this end is slid down over the cover stud closest to the recoil side of the saw. I guess when the engine cover is in place the wire must get pressed down / squeezed against the metal saw casting and provide a ground for the on/off switch???.
I have noticed a couple times when I go to shut off the saw the switch when slid to the right does not always shut off the saw. Could this wire be causing the switch to kill the saw as far as a restart? and more importantly do your 630's have this ground wire set up?
I am figuring it must be carburation but I will entertain any and all advice. Thanks for the responses and I will try the sea foam and check the vent if I can find it.
I have the saw on the bench now and I have done a couple things.
I found a chafed spot in the plug wire and the blue on / off switch wire where it passes under the recoil cover. I have repaired both using heat shrink tubing. I put in the new fuel line on that I had purchased last winter and I blew out the gas filter with compressed area. The one in the tank before was in there backwards according to what Robin told me it should be. I reset coil air gap while in there too using a chainsawer 0.10 business card.
I have searched that tank all over inside and out and I can see no tank vent or a place for one. I am sure there must be one but dammed if I can find it. I also have a 630 parts saw that is completely torn down to just the plastic tank rear handle assembly so I can really look it over good I don't see any tank vent on that saw either. I am headed back to the shop and start putting it back together .
I found a chafed spot in the plug wire and the blue on / off switch wire where it passes under the recoil cover. I have repaired both using heat shrink tubing. I put in the new fuel line on that I had purchased last winter and I blew out the gas filter with compressed area. The one in the tank before was in there backwards according to what Robin told me it should be. I reset coil air gap while in there too using a chainsawer 0.10 business card.
I have searched that tank all over inside and out and I can see no tank vent or a place for one. I am sure there must be one but dammed if I can find it. I also have a 630 parts saw that is completely torn down to just the plastic tank rear handle assembly so I can really look it over good I don't see any tank vent on that saw either. I am headed back to the shop and start putting it back together .
I don't see where this is on the saw the photo is good but too close up no context. Like right below or above yada yada. I looked very carefully inside the tank the only access to it is the gas cap I think?
sorry I found it, it looks like a screw ( straight edge slot) so how do I check it? blow it out good enough? or do I unscrew it and take it out some how?
