Yes.....beyond that o-ring is open to the main bearing area and oil pump drive cam.Oiler is still not working. The o ring did have a flat spot on it. I attached a photo of the o ring in question. Is this the one that would allow oil to pass into the crankcase?
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I would have to agree with you. My thoughts are that there is something else that’s causing the oiler to malfunction…..if indeed there is a problem with its operation.My experience in general with oiler O-rings is that you get exactly OE sizes. Dont' fudge with too small or too large....even if they seem to fit.
However, I'm not convinced that O-ring is the cause of your non-oiling problem....I'm thinking not.
Kevin
No the oil pump is driven by a eccentric cam that is pressed onto the crankshaft outboard of the PTO side main bearing. The pump shaft operates in an in and out fashion...not round and round. Nothing to see under the clutch except the crank seal.I would have to agree with you. My thoughts are that there is something else that’s causing the oiler to malfunction…..if indeed there is a problem with its operation.
The bad o ring would likely make it smoke like crazy all the time but should still pump oil out to the bar. I did not see anything wrong with the rubber hose that connects the reservoir to the pump and all the lines seem to allow fluid to flow through them.
Is there a work gear or something similar that runs off the crank similar to other models? Is there something in behind the clutch that can be examined?
I've used the Husky switch...just very gently with a pair of needle nose pliers bent the prong up to fit .I've run into a bit of a conundrum with trying to get a new switch for my 49SP.I was told they're still available,but the part # I was given is not the right one - 504385603,that is for a different saw.The 504385603 has the spades sticking down instead of sticking straight out.There are plenty of 504385603 switches on Feebay.I need part # 4385602 (A J'red part #).I can't even find a generic toggle switch that has the spade stick straight out.
In almost all scenarios like this, it turns out to be that the oiler isn't primed. I know you've tried to prime it, so I'm at a loss. Maybe try something lighter weight....like 10wt, just to get things going, then dump out and put back bar oil?I would have to agree with you. My thoughts are that there is something else that’s causing the oiler to malfunction…..if indeed there is a problem with its operation.
The bad o ring would likely make it smoke like crazy all the time but should still pump oil out to the bar. I did not see anything wrong with the rubber hose that connects the reservoir to the pump and all the lines seem to allow fluid to flow through them.
Is there a work gear or something similar that runs off the crank similar to other models? Is there something in behind the clutch that can be examined?
I guess that would be the easiest thing to do. Just try again. Nothing to lose. I used winter oil but possibly I just didn’t give it enough time. I’m used to manual oilers as well. Probably it’s just an example of inexperienced saw enthusiasts . I’m pretty stubborn and determined though so I will definitely figure it out sooner or later.In almost all scenarios like this, it turns out to be that the oiler isn't primed. I know you've tried to prime it, so I'm at a loss. Maybe try something lighter weight....like 10wt, just to get things going, then dump out and put back bar oil?
Kevin
Yeah, we don't care if it's bar oil.....just something light enough to prime the pump and get ya going again. Then you can dump and put back bar oil.I guess that would be the easiest thing to do. Just try again. Nothing to lose. I used winter oil but possibly I just didn’t give it enough time. I’m used to manual oilers as well. Probably it’s just an example of inexperienced saw enthusiasts . I’m pretty stubborn and determined though so I will definitely figure it out sooner or later.
I’m not sure if I have any lighter oil on hand but I do have kerosene. I’ve heard of thinning out bar oil with it. How much would be enough but not too much to cause any damage to the seals and I rings?Yeah, we don't care if it's bar oil.....just something light enough to prime the pump and get ya going again. Then you can dump and put back bar oil.
Kevin
Before bar oil came out, we used to thin motor oil with diesel for the winter. I can't remember the ratio...probably a third diesel. I can't see where that would hurt anything.I’m not sure if I have any lighter oil on hand but I do have kerosene. I’ve heard of thinning out bar oil with it. How much would be enough but not too much to cause any damage to the seals and I rings?
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