Jonsered Chainsaws

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Would an OEM be stamped with the part numbers?
Ernie
Good question. I'll ask him.

He says he's not 100% sure, but some OE's have makings and others don't. He said to look at mine because he knows those are OE for sure. I did and I find no marking on the inner one unless there would be numbers on the part against the saw case. My outer dawg has no marking.

Kevin
 
Good question. I'll ask him.

He says he's not 100% sure, but some OE's have makings and others don't. He said to look at mine because he knows those are OE for sure. I did and I find no marking on the inner one unless there would be numbers on the part against the saw case. My outer dawg has no marking.

Kevin
Sounds kinda difficult to tell and OEM from repop if the OEM's arent labeled with the part numbers.
I guess I'll just have to use my judgement!
I appreciate your help very much!
Ernie
 
Sounds kinda difficult to tell and OEM from repop if the OEM's arent labeled with the part numbers.
I guess I'll just have to use my judgement!
I appreciate your help very much!
Ernie
Yeah, I suspect it will come down to the steel they used....all things being equal and they got the shape and the holes correct.

Kevin
 
Bryce (customchainsawparts)is posting a pile of NOS parts on ebay...worth checking out...
612 Jonsered parts total. Certainly not 'fire sale' prices but if you've been lookin' for something for a long time, he might have it!

He's got a 111 base gasket I'd like to have but after tax and shipping....nah, make it myself.

Kevin
 
I'm looking for a recoil cover label on my 2186 ...does anyone have one or maybe know where I can possibly find one ?
It's the last piece to complete the saw rebuild and I'd love to find one .
Thanks
Ernie
 
I'm looking for a recoil cover label on my 2186 ...does anyone have one or maybe know where I can possibly find one ?
It's the last piece to complete the saw rebuild and I'd love to find one .
Thanks
Ernie
The 2186 label (p/n 537 16 89-01) shows up as valid on jacks small engines, I'd try there.
 
Just showing aftermarket 272 redneck cut. Just for use. So other guys having issues getting a working cover if they are worried about such.
The red I used is wrong but it was on hand.
Tried to buy 2 correct shades at 2 different places and they were out. For me it didn’t matter if it had been any color.
Was just showing for those that care and wanting a cover for those Jonsered.

j670272afm.jpg
 
Yep hard to match color. I got a 630 Super II once that was trashed in most every way. Someone had put a Husky cover one it and just beat the offending, rear part off with a hammer. I ended up rebuilding that saw and porting it.......took that cover to the bandsaw and carefully cut along the dust partition and shot it with poorly matching red but it worked perfect and still does as does the rest of the saw.
 
Yep hard to match color. I got a 630 Super II once that was trashed in most every way. Someone had put a Husky cover one it and just beat the offending, rear part off with a hammer. I ended up rebuilding that saw and porting it.......took that cover to the bandsaw and carefully cut along the dust partition and shot it with poorly matching red but it worked perfect and still does as does the rest of the saw.

Back when I was goofing off with old 272 cover and I put a NOS brake band in my 670 cover long ago. Still just a PITA to find the missing right parts. To many freaking variations in these.
Even the brake handles with wrong tilt to back etc.

j670H272c.jpgj670jc.jpgj670cbbbbbbb.jpgj670pc.jpgj670cbbbb.jpg
 
A guy on another forum thinks he has to split the case to replace the crank seals on a 535. Is this true? I don't know that model at all........

Kevin
Well the 535 is a clamshel motor and as such is not splitable.........it's only one piece......unsplittabe without a woodsplitter......which in my opinion is the way to go on these saws.....
 
A guy on another forum thinks he has to split the case to replace the crank seals on a 535. Is this true? I don't know that model at all........

Kevin
Show whoever on that other forum this IPL. Look at crankcase. I dont know this saw either but IPL helps.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjQvfmD76f4AhWSoI4IHUn-BHQQFnoECAYQAQ&url=https://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Jonsered%20535.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0iWqjhGRfN4Iop6GBKSxKM
 
Thanks guys. This owner is listening to all kinds of bad advice on that forum. I gave him a link to Lil' Red Barn for the seals he needs and yet he wallowing around listening to all kinds of BS about seals.

Never worked on a clamshell but looks like you take off the bottom part of the 'shell, lift the crank a bit, replace the seals and then use sealant to put the 'clamshell' back together again. At the rate he's going and the advice he's getting, he'll never make it that far.:rolleyes:

Kevin
 
Thanks guys. This owner is listening to all kinds of bad advice on that forum. I gave him a link to Lil' Red Barn for the seals he needs and yet he wallowing around listening to all kinds of BS about seals.

Never worked on a clamshell but looks like you take off the bottom part of the 'shell, lift the crank a bit, replace the seals and then use sealant to put the 'clamshell' back together again. At the rate he's going and the advice he's getting, he'll never make it that far.:rolleyes:

Kevin


Yes, and with those things chase air leaks the rest of your life.........
 
Thanks guys. This owner is listening to all kinds of bad advice on that forum. I gave him a link to Lil' Red Barn for the seals he needs and yet he wallowing around listening to all kinds of BS about seals.

Never worked on a clamshell but looks like you take off the bottom part of the 'shell, lift the crank a bit, replace the seals and then use sealant to put the 'clamshell' back together again. At the rate he's going and the advice he's getting, he'll never make it that far.:rolleyes:

Kevin

I'm not aware of any that require the lower crankcase cap to come off when changing seals. Most are easy but some like Stihl clamshell saws require a lot of stuff be removed to get at them. I suppose they get easier once you've done a few.
 
I'm not aware of any that require the lower crankcase cap to come off when changing seals. Most are easy but some like Stihl clamshell saws require a lot of stuff be removed to get at them. I suppose they get easier once you've done a few.
Tim, I was watching a YouTube vid on replacing the seals on a Stihl. The seals were in a definite 360 degree, machined 'groove' and the crank had to be lifted to get the seals off. What it's like with the rest of the clamshells, I have no idea.

Kevin
 
Hopefully, I'll never have to own a 'clamshell' chainsaw.:(

Kevin
I know they get a bum rap, but the two clamshell saws I own haven't given me any issues, nor have the clamshells my family members own given them any issues. The only clamshell air leaks I've encountered have been from the sealer between the halves failing, and I've re-used the seals with no issues. I know a 15+ year old 445 with the original seals that's been used a lot, only sorta maintained, and run with a non-sharp chain a lot and the seals haven't failed yet.
 

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