Jonsered Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'm curious about your comment regarding the wear disc. Why is this particularly indicative of trouble? And what kind of trouble?

The coil wires can be comply reinstated using the liquid insulation you've recommended to me before, correct?
Yes and even coupled with heat shrink. I was saying to be cautious if the wear disc is absent or badly worn.....you need to check out the entire recoil assembly for issues. Not that it was some major problem with this saw, it's not.

I only have the hard copy. Didn't I scan a hard copy for another saw for you before?

Kevin
 
Yes and even coupled with heat shrink. I was saying to be cautious if the wear disc is absent or badly worn.....you need to check out the entire recoil assembly for issues. Not that it was some major problem with this saw, it's not.

I only have the hard copy. Didn't I scan a hard copy for another saw for you before?

Kevin
I don't recall you scanning another copy for me before.

10-4 on the recoil and wires.
 
Picked up the 910 today. It looks like it's in great condition, the mounts seem to be intact but I won't be certain until I take things apart and have a closet look. It starts after 2-4 pulls cold, but then stalls after about a minute of running, methinks due to warming up/compression decreasing with the scored piston, but it does sound a tad rich and may also be loading up. No time to tinker with it much more than that today. I'll take some pics/videos next week.
 
Picked up the 910 today. It looks like it's in great condition, the mounts seem to be intact but I won't be certain until I take things apart and have a closet look. It starts after 2-4 pulls cold, but then stalls after about a minute of running, methinks due to warming up/compression decreasing with the scored piston, but it does sound a tad rich and may also be loading up. No time to tinker with it much more than that today. I'll take some pics/videos next week.
If you pull the muffler and see scoring....I wouldn't even run it and risk damaging it further.

It looked low hr to me....probably dumb maintenance.

Kevin.
 
If you pull the muffler and see scoring....I wouldn't even run it and risk damaging it further.

It looked low hr to me....probably dumb maintenance.

Kevin.
I'm going to ask an honest, but probably dumb question. If the piston and cylinder are already scored and beyond saving, what other harm can arise from running a already-junk P+C?

I'm just waiting for @Cantdog to get back to me about his P+C offer and to complete the transaction. I won't run it until I have that P+C replaced.
 
I'm going to ask an honest, but probably dumb question. If the piston and cylinder are already scored and beyond saving, what other harm can arise from running a already-junk P+C?

I'm just waiting for @Cantdog to get back to me about his P+C offer and to complete the transaction. I won't run it until I have that P+C replaced.
Well it may not be a total loose YET but if you take a chance and run the saw it may get past the point of being able to save at least the cylinder.
Then also the crank can be damaged beyond repair from pieces of metal or worse the case ...it's just all around bad to run it when you KNOW for sure it's scored up .

If your going to just junk the old p/c I'd possibly take them off your hands .

Thanks
Ernie
 
Well it may not be a total loose YET but if you take a chance and run the saw it may get past the point of being able to save at least the cylinder.
Then also the crank can be damaged beyond repair from pieces of metal or worse the case ...it's just all around bad to run it when you KNOW for sure it's scored up .

If your going to just junk the old p/c I'd possibly take them off your hands .

Thanks
Ernie
Good points, Ernie, things that became apparent to me once I started to think more about it, and after I already posted. Hence the "dumb question" warning. I was going to take a look at the cylinder to see if it's salvageable first, maybe keep it for a spare. But I probably won't be taking it off until I have a replacement P+C in hand. I'll keep you in mind.
 
Good points, Ernie, things that came to mind once I started to think more about it, and after I already posted. Hence the "dumb question" warning. I was going to take a look at the cylinder to see if it's salvageable first, maybe keep it for a spare. But I probably won't be taking it off until I have a replacement P+C in hand. I'll keep you in mind.
Well hopefully it's not to bad that it can't be cleaned up and just a new set of rings will get you going again .

If it were me I'd definitely ***** it and be absolutely sure I needed a new set before buying one unless you'd be looking to have a spare set on hand .
My 910e came to me with bad scoring .. luckily I was able to clean up all the transfer and just throw a new set of rings in it and it was good to go .... of course new seals also and then a pressure/vac test .

Ernie
 
I'm going to ask an honest, but probably dumb question. If the piston and cylinder are already scored and beyond saving, what other harm can arise from running a already-junk P+C?

I'm just waiting for @Cantdog to get back to me about his P+C offer and to complete the transaction. I won't run it until I have that P+C replaced.
Because of the scarcity of parts.....the chance of reviving the cylinder is there. And you'd have a spare even if you went with Robin's offer.

Could be there wasn't enough oil in the oil mix or too much causing bad carbon and coke deposits that let loose and scored things. Hard to say until you can see in there.

Kevin
 
So I've been doing a bit of reading trying to learn about removing transfer from cylinders, and oh boy is there varying opinions about methods, futility etc. Let me see if I got the gist so in the case do encounter transfer on a future cylinder I will know how to properly remove it without making things worse.

From what I see, more people tend to prefer mechanical removal of actual aluminum transfer using emery cloth and scotch Brite. For glazing removal, a ball hone is preferred.

I saw Mastermind Saw Works YT video use a stepwise process using emery cloth 100->180->320 grit, which he then followed up with a maroon Scotchbrite on drill mandrel. Flexhone ball hone is more for deglazing or post-porting work.

Do I have this about right?
 
Mastermind's Scotchbrite on the drill mandrel is the "Wigglesworth" method I mentioned here before. You could do it with just that...be the safest and also the most time-consuming. The problem has always been the thickness of the cylinder coating with sandpaper, hones, and the like.

Some people use acid...I think muriatic. Very easy to use too much hone and also, the balls can go into the cylinder porting and affect the edges. People that know what they're doing with hones, seem to come out OK. Would not be my recommendation for a first-time job on an unsupported collectible saw.

I took my ancient, Husky 2100 loggin' saw and just did the 'Wigglesworth' method on the cylinder after cleaning up the piston. Pulling about 175PSI with Cabers. For a big cc production, old school Husky, that's great.

Kevin
 
If your on FB. Get hold of Gary Barker. He does most of the jred decals for us in jred and chainsaw repair groups.

Just a idea of what he does.

View attachment 1093237
View attachment 1093238
I've been curious about this for some time, no better time than to ask now.

I've noticed some of the JRed saws labeled "Jonsered" and then some other JRed ones "Jonsereds"? What forced the switch? Why?

Are these the infamous AV mounts that were the weak point on the 910?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2662485738...dFBQB2zRdG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
I've been curious about this for some time, no better time than to ask now.

I've noticed some of the JRed saws labeled "Jonsered" and then some other JRed ones "Jonsereds"? What forced the switch? Why?

Are these the infamous AV mounts that were the weak point on the 910?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2662485738...dFBQB2zRdG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Generally, depending on which advertising lit you're looking at, the 's' was dropped during and/or right after the run of the 910e. So '80-'81. Nothing concrete there and no lines drawn in the sand. Since the 910e was the last of the old company's designs, I prefer to call it a Jonsereds. As far as a reason, you should ask Magnus the Swede on his site. Magnus has all these Swede people in the biz he can ask.....but.....they find it peculiar that we want to know info on old companies/saws. I think they're not real nostalgic people for the most part and generally look forward.

Yes, on the handle mounts.

Kevin
 
I've been curious about this for some time, no better time than to ask now.

I've noticed some of the JRed saws labeled "Jonsered" and then some other JRed ones "Jonsereds"? What forced the switch? Why?

Are these the infamous AV mounts that were the weak point on the 910?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2662485738...dFBQB2zRdG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I believe the dropping of the "s" occured sometime in late 83. I have an 83 490 that is a Jonsereds and a 84 490 that is a Jonsered. As Kevin said the 910 was the first of the 9XX series and are true Jonsereds and I think some of the 920s were labeled Jonsereds but not all and I think all the 930s were just Jonsered. That is how I understand it anyway.....and I could be wrong!!!

The rear mounts aren't really that bad.....they mostly fail if one gets the saw stuck in the cut an trys to remove it forcefully by yanking rather than lifting the log or cutting it out with another saw........or what ever it takes to relieve the stress on the bar. One just has to be very conscious of that fact......Other than that they actually do a pretty good job at AV duty....
 
Back
Top