Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

I've given up on trying to filter it, filters always plug up too quickly. I just let the solids accumulate on the bottom until it gets a couple of inches deep, then tip the whole unit up so the solvent accumulates over the pump and pump it out, finally scoop out the bit of solvent that remains. Surprising how much of the solvent drains out of the solids...I scoop out the solids and put them in a box lined with a few Walmart bags, then use that to start a brush pile on fire, or just burn it in our burn barrel with a mess of paper.

Mark

That Adam from the old Mythbuster show.....he reviews a parts washer he likes....did some inventions to make it better. He lets the solution settle for a period, then comes back and sucks off the clean top...followed by cleaning out the gunk. I like that method rather than filtering. Glad you said it is a real pain to filter the solution. I've got a Mityvac 'evacuator' that runs off my compressor.....would be perfect for sucking up that clear solution.

Ohhhh fire starter with the gunk....I can get into that!!! I could line a cardboard box with parchment paper....don't like burning any plastic.

Kevin

 

[Woodslasher]

I building another long bench on the opposite wall in my shop. Floor space is at a premium. So....I intend to get a parts washer like that, but 'tabletop' as I'll have plenty of bench space. The only downside to that is getting out the gunk from many washings. I.e., a drain **** at the bottom is not practical.

Yeah, given the prices of real parts solvent, you almost have to filter as much as you can until it goes bad. Same issue with carb clean in those gallon cans with the steel parts tray. I have X's on them to denote how 'used' they are. Those gal carb cans are $40+ here now......insanely absurd!

Kevin

I know a few places that still use diesel instead of solvent, as solvent is $80 a jug while diesel is $6-7 a gallon.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I know a few places that still use diesel instead of solvent, as solvent is $80 a jug while diesel is $6-7 a gallon.

Yeah, K1 kerosene is an even better solvent, but it has priced itself crazy as well. Winter, No. 1 diesel is OK.

When I ran that shop at the gold mill we used trichloroethane as a part cleaner. I think CA finished that off for the public. In Texas, we used 'safety solvent' which was Naptha with additive for your hands.

Kevin

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Local guy here, runs a vehicle repair shop- often gets called out to field fix vehicles the owners have filled with the wrong fuel- gas vehicle owner mistakenly added diesel to- or visa versa.
He drains the tank and adds the contents into a 1000 litre storage tank.
Has been known to use that through his parts washer.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Sure, why not, it's free. Won't hurt a thing either. Depending on the 'size' of the job, I'll use Coleman white gas for a cleaner.... which is Naptha. Like in a container down inside my USC. But I could do so much more, faster and larger pieces with a parts washer.....not the Naptha though because of the price these days; $20/gal.


Kevin

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Sure, why not, it's free. Won't hurt a thing either.

Kevin

Unless you are smoking a cigarette while using and the gas ratio is high and its a hot day.......

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well sure....even in my USC, I sometimes use some pretty toxic chems with low flash points. So I'm not adverse in warmer weather to take all that outside for safety. Never had an issue, but........

As much as people fear gasoline as a solvent, it's one of the best out there......just be smart about it!

The rep that sold us the trichloroethane at the gold mill.....he told us it wasn't flammable. Given the odor.....we looked at him with disbelieving eyes. So to prove his point, he threw a lit matchbook into the parts washer. We dove under the tables like someone tossed a grenade. He was right, it extinguished itself!

Kevin

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Well sure....even in my USC, I sometimes use some pretty toxic chems with low flash points. So I'm not adverse in warmer weather to take all that outside for safety. Never had an issue, but........

As much as people fear gasoline as a solvent, it's one of the best out there......just be smart about it!

The rep that sold us the trichloroethane at the gold mill.....he told us it wasn't flammable. Given the odor.....we looked at him with disbelieving eyes. So to prove his point, he threw a lit matchbook into the parts washer. We dove under the tables like someone tossed a grenade. He was right, it extinguished itself!

Kevin

Seen the same done with petrol (as the rest of the normal world call gas)- the liquid doesnt ignite- the vapours do.
I dont recommend testing it- you kind of have to have the right parameters in place to be able to do it- and perhaps a couple of wires off a couple of your terminals upstairs- but if lady luck is on your side- it can be done..

 

[Real1shepherd]

Seen the same done with petrol (as the rest of the normal world call gas)- the liquid doesnt ignite- the vapours do.
I dont recommend testing it- you kind of have to have the right parameters in place to be able to do it- and perhaps a couple of wires off a couple of your terminals upstairs- but if lady luck is on your side- it can be done..

Saw this action myself....large ground walk-in firepit/trashpit. Some idiots poured a bunch of gas in the center.....came back a couple of minutes later with a match and the vapors ignited. Took their beards and eyebrows off in a giant FLASH. Everybody was so drunk they just laughed it off. Next morning I bet they weren't laughing....I had gone back home later that night rather than be around pure idiots and a repeat performance.

Kevin

 

[LB6259]

Dove into the 49SP this morning.

The good? It has spark, and it's holding 150+psi compression.

The bad? Well...I'm not exactly sure if it's bad or not, but here's the piston:
The weird thing about this, is it doesn't catch on my fingernail, and it's only on the bottom side. Here's what the top side part looks like:


Cracked piston? I'm at a loss because it isn't losing compression, but the last thing I need is to have a grenaded piston.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Dove into the 49SP this morning.

The good? It has spark, and it's holding 150+psi compression. View attachment 1148242

The bad? Well...I'm not exactly sure if it's bad or not, but here's the piston:View attachment 1148243
The weird thing about this, is it doesn't catch on my fingernail, and it's only on the bottom side. Here's what the top side part looks like:
View attachment 1148244

Cracked piston? I'm at a loss because it isn't losing compression, but the last thing I need is to have a grenaded piston.

If it were me, I'd get to the root of that transfer. But on the other hand, if it ran OK....might just leave it alone. Your call. I'd wake up one morning and say WTH and tear it down....lol.

Kinda weird one thin transfer line like that....something got in there briefly. If you have a digital bore scope, use it! Certainly put in new crank seals at the very least to protect your investment.

Those long hose compression testers historically give inaccurate readings on small 2-cycle engines....low numbers.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Dove into the 49SP this morning.

The good? It has spark, and it's holding 150+psi compression. View attachment 1148242

The bad? Well...I'm not exactly sure if it's bad or not, but here's the piston:View attachment 1148243
The weird thing about this, is it doesn't catch on my fingernail, and it's only on the bottom side. Here's what the top side part looks like:
View attachment 1148244

Cracked piston? I'm at a loss because it isn't losing compression, but the last thing I need is to have a grenaded pisto

That piston looks fine to me…. Can still see the horizontal machine marks so it has little wear. To bad about the scratch but it’s good it doesn’t go all the way up to the ring. Likely a tiny ball of carbon got dislodged from the exhaust port and got stuck there until it disintegrated. If you can’t feel it with a fingernail I’d say it’s not an issue

 

[Real1shepherd]

That piston looks fine to me…. Can still see the horizontal machine marks so it has little wear. To bad about the scratch but it’s good it doesn’t go all the way up to the ring. Likely a tiny ball of carbon got dislodged from the exhaust port and got stuck there until it disintegrated. If you can’t feel it with a fingernail I’d say it’s not an issue

Agreed....just some random small piece of hardened crap....maybe coke. Probably a relatively low-hr saw. Take a close look at the top of the piston though.....look for baked-on coke...potentially a piston killer.

Kevin

 

[LB6259]

Thanks guys

Once it quits raining and I get a bar for this I'll give it a go.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Don't forget the crank seals unless you can tell/hear when a saw runs too lean. Lots of guys have ruined vintage saws by running old leaking crank seals....cheap insurance for old saws.

Kevin

 

[stihltech]

Check the crank bearings for play. Lost a few that way.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah, I figure everyone does that when replacing seals....but I guess not. Especially on the clutch/PTO side........


Kevin

 

[ErnieG]

Stacked !
Just need to figure out how the covers held down ...came with a hole in the top but I'm not sure how it was previously held down .

Ernie

 

[Real1shepherd]

Fun toy! Red foam accents the red saw.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

On compression testers for 2-cycles.....the long tube isn't a problem IF the Schrader part is close to the end of the tester's tube. If it's up high where the gauge is, you can get low readings. Not an issue with car engines, but is for small 2-cycle engines.

So if you have one of those 'kits' that have different length extensions, that probably means the Schrader is fixed up near the gauge.....use the shortest extension you have.

Kevin