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Those are super nice Mark!!
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Very cool on the 80! That's certainly one of a kind. I've seen pics of these in the past. Even the recoil and the PTO are cutaway!
Kevin
Love cutaways and clear saws. Magnus in Sweden was just sharing some of his on FB group too.
Another overseas collector of Jreds shared this old ad.
Thanks Robin.
After looking at the ones Magnus has, I have to wonder if they were actually produced by Jonsereds and not by Tilton after all...does anyone have insight into that?
Mark
After looking at the ones Magnus has, I have to wonder if they were actually produced by Jonsereds and not by Tilton after all...does anyone have insight into that?
Mark
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No insight really.... but they look to me like they were produced using the same process and color paint etc.
Unless it served some greater purpose, like a lot of $$$, I can't imagine Tilton of MN having the wherewithal to do Jonsereds cutaway saws. Now.....Tilton might have asked the factory if they could do it for demo/potential sales.....they certainly had the sales/distributor clout.
As Robin says, paint matching smells like factory to me. I've yet to see anybody duplicate exactly the old Jonsereds colors with anything less than a lot of time, auto paint, and clearcoat. It ain't easy and the slivertops.....forgetaboutit.
Kevin
As Robin says, paint matching smells like factory to me. I've yet to see anybody duplicate exactly the old Jonsereds colors with anything less than a lot of time, auto paint, and clearcoat. It ain't easy and the slivertops.....forgetaboutit.
Kevin
Someone dropped off this 920(?) and wanted me to give it a thorough going over.
Is 130 PSI adequate to run well?
Piston and rings do not look bad just looking through the intake/exhaust.
If I go any further I would need piston/rings, base gasket, and intake boot. Are these parts available anywhere and what should I expect to pay? I'm trying to help the owner make the right decision.
Other bits like seals, o-ring, fuel, impulse, vent lines, etc. I can manage.
Mark
Is 130 PSI adequate to run well?
Piston and rings do not look bad just looking through the intake/exhaust.
If I go any further I would need piston/rings, base gasket, and intake boot. Are these parts available anywhere and what should I expect to pay? I'm trying to help the owner make the right decision.
Other bits like seals, o-ring, fuel, impulse, vent lines, etc. I can manage.
Mark
Mark....before you go any further you might want to find a better compression tester. Having that Schrader up near the gauge and the long tube downstream of that.....is giving you lower readings in a 2cycle. Get a tester where the Schrader is at the end of the test tube. It doesn't seem like there should be much difference, but the volume in that tube interferes with a good reading.
Could be with a better test setup, you may go to 145psi+ which would be acceptable. It might just need some new Cabers and you'd be set....if the piston looked OK(most likely). If it were me, I'd stick an endoscope in the bore and look at everything carefully.....before pulling the jug.
Try a better tester and see what you get......and then absolutely do a pressure AND vacuum test too. A leaky boot or crank seals will destroy that engine. You can't expect to let things slide now in anything that old. Just the passage of time now affects rubber/seals.
Owners of saws that old can't effectively minimize the repair bill because they think the saw is low hr or OK. If they don't want the saw to burn up, you have to cover all the bases due to age.
Kevin
Could be with a better test setup, you may go to 145psi+ which would be acceptable. It might just need some new Cabers and you'd be set....if the piston looked OK(most likely). If it were me, I'd stick an endoscope in the bore and look at everything carefully.....before pulling the jug.
Try a better tester and see what you get......and then absolutely do a pressure AND vacuum test too. A leaky boot or crank seals will destroy that engine. You can't expect to let things slide now in anything that old. Just the passage of time now affects rubber/seals.
Owners of saws that old can't effectively minimize the repair bill because they think the saw is low hr or OK. If they don't want the saw to burn up, you have to cover all the bases due to age.
Kevin
Mark, it's not going to be a cheap fix. Most of what you might need went NLA some time ago. As I recall these were thick ring pistons, 54mm, so that will be easy. Make the base gasket. Intake boot will be a hard one. Is it bad? Crank seals are common Husqvarna.
Saws this old at a minimum have to have new crank seals. J'reds and Husky seals are usually easy to find.......even the 110/111/111S.
If the intake boot leaks, I bet you can find one second-hand. If it's stiff and has no holes, you can soak it in brake fluid to get it pliable once more.
Kevin
If the intake boot leaks, I bet you can find one second-hand. If it's stiff and has no holes, you can soak it in brake fluid to get it pliable once more.
Kevin
I've found the old Stihl, Husky, Jonsered boots to be pretty durable. Short of being damaged, I don't recall a failed one just from age. Not like Homelite where intake boots melt just sitting on the shelf.
Any boot of that age should be carefully tested/studied before putting back into service. As I said, being immersed in brake fluid can do wonders making them pliable again without damaging.
Kevin
Kevin
The compression tester is fine, low pressure Schrader valve in the tip, I have used it on many saws and trimmers, etc. and believe the gauge within 5 PSI or so.
Pressure testing the crankcase reveals a leak in the vent for the oil tank (at least what I believe to be the vent)
I assume that to mean that the crankcase gasket is leaking.
I think I may recommend to pull the plug on this one and cut his losses.
Mark
Pressure testing the crankcase reveals a leak in the vent for the oil tank (at least what I believe to be the vent)
I assume that to mean that the crankcase gasket is leaking.
I think I may recommend to pull the plug on this one and cut his losses.
Mark
The old J'reds had that tiny Cotter pin in the oil tank.....usually near the top of the tank(depending on the model). That shouldn't affect the pressure test because that's in the crankcase area. But if the case was leaking into the oil tank because of a bad case gasket, then yes, you'd get air through that Cotter pin release area.
I think the saw is repairable....but you should probably charge as you go, rather than a bid/estimate. The saw has good value on the used market as a vintage saw. Better even parted out. Fair amount of people looking for 920/930 parts.
Kevin
I think the saw is repairable....but you should probably charge as you go, rather than a bid/estimate. The saw has good value on the used market as a vintage saw. Better even parted out. Fair amount of people looking for 920/930 parts.
Kevin
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Wow you don't see ones like this come up every day!!! This was the year they dropped the "S" as 1983 models were still sold as Jonsereds
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256442420997?itmmeta=01HRZ2ZDGN8SCK6471S08HX1DH&hash=item3bb528cf05:g:SjwAAOSwh-Nl7zbG&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4Mt1l16dWxkyWpHKn5JuzFBLwHp1wL7yC9djMQPtlEfHOwOAXjEbv8gpfbxA/L03wMw34beP6It6Sc6LNRScYBnyGXEhjJpTywk6SwBMrQlXVNHA65tSC9Sh/eGZh63Za9FvtdZb2XwZ95cmv8Naq14VVAK1ixBHJXNDB4tPDElRxxQ/1IhaL08MgkDvn3+PlaDJYOMi8SrDiEzLN/USlkyLJJ7MbeyE5BhB0JBuD8MwVaZZnQ9HlABi6tSXmdlL8heJgZh7O6gZG8mQlA0odl8+fmo0yAhMJ3JnQGobNvJF|tkp:Bk9SR8jY_eLHYw
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256442420997?itmmeta=01HRZ2ZDGN8SCK6471S08HX1DH&hash=item3bb528cf05:g:SjwAAOSwh-Nl7zbG&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4Mt1l16dWxkyWpHKn5JuzFBLwHp1wL7yC9djMQPtlEfHOwOAXjEbv8gpfbxA/L03wMw34beP6It6Sc6LNRScYBnyGXEhjJpTywk6SwBMrQlXVNHA65tSC9Sh/eGZh63Za9FvtdZb2XwZ95cmv8Naq14VVAK1ixBHJXNDB4tPDElRxxQ/1IhaL08MgkDvn3+PlaDJYOMi8SrDiEzLN/USlkyLJJ7MbeyE5BhB0JBuD8MwVaZZnQ9HlABi6tSXmdlL8heJgZh7O6gZG8mQlA0odl8+fmo0yAhMJ3JnQGobNvJF|tkp:Bk9SR8jY_eLHYw
Someone's closet I suspect....or maybe hidden in an old dealer's stash. I saw this happen once before with a 'closet'(new) Husky 2100 around fifteen years ago. Went for over $3,000.
Somewhere in '82/'83, they dropped the 's'. You can't go entirely by the advertising lit either....sometimes they goofed. They never really said, "OK, from this date forward, we are going to drop the 's' In Jonsereds.
This 490 isn't a desirable saw for me, but holy cow, she's NEW!
Kevin
Somewhere in '82/'83, they dropped the 's'. You can't go entirely by the advertising lit either....sometimes they goofed. They never really said, "OK, from this date forward, we are going to drop the 's' In Jonsereds.
This 490 isn't a desirable saw for me, but holy cow, she's NEW!
Kevin
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I have three 1983 490s and all are labeled Jonsereds on the stickers and metal nameplates and also have two 1984 490s that are labeled as Jonsered plus this 84 is also a Jonsered so at the Partner plant the change would seem to have happened 83 to 84 timeline somewhere .
Lol....I bet it had more to do with the new emblem model stickers coming in that said 'Jonsered', than anything to do with serial numbers.
Kevin
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I can only speak for this model of saw but these saws had a metal nameplate with the brand name painted on it and the year and ss number stamped into it. I have yet to see a name plate that has a different spelling than the recoil and clutch cover stickers on intact saws from that era.
