Jonsered Chainsaws

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I went ahead and brought the 521 down from the attic and got started on it.

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Handle heater switch is broken, but the best I could tell by looking at the pieces that were left it was not melted.

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I never really paid attention to the brake on this one.

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Ignition is different from the 52E, I did check with a suitable spark plug and it has a decent spark. The spark plug that is in the saw does not have the screw off terminal top.

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The rear handle has a heater element as well.

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I got a good start on cleaning tbe bigger pieces.

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I still have all of the smaller bits to go.

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Mark
The 521E was very expensive for the day and considered the “Cadillac” of the 50cc Jonsereds line up. You’ll note the pto case half, P&C, top covers, front and rear handles etc are identical to the 52E. The flywheel side case half, recoil cover, flywheel and ign are pure 521. The pecking order, bottom to top of this family was 49sp, 52, 52E and 521EV. The 521 retailed for more than the 621 in 1977. It was the first Jonsereds to come stock with that goofy brake.
 
I took an older Jonsered switch apart and put it back together somehow. They are flimsy affairs for such nice quality saws. I think I just got lucky with that one.🤨

Kevin
The early two speed heater switches were more like the kill switches with a metal toggle but the later ones featured a plastic toggle. They all seemed pretty light duty. The plastic ones didn’t last well in real world use
 
The two speed heater switch on this one is the metal type as you have seen, but the internals are all gone. I will try to remember and get a photo when I am on that saw again.

It is intriguing that Jonsereds went to such great lengths to design and build the best chainsaws possible, then cheaped out on items like the switches and wiring, and later on such chincy choke rods (920/930 and 625) and plastics. I should try to remember that there is always a contest between engineering, manufacturing, purchasing, and then the poor old sales & applications group.

Mark
 
Yes it is........they had some serious bean counters!! The creation of the 49SP is a great case study of this process. They took the 52 series case, handles, covers crankshaft, oiler etc. and added a diferent flywheel/ign, P&C etc, They focused on the most obscure things to cheap out on....a couple things come to mind quickly. One is the fuel and ..oil caps......all the pro saws had chains to keep track of the caps....the 49 had the same caps and gaskets but did not have the chains. If you look at the inside of the clutch cover near the bottom on the back edge there is a small rectangular pocket with a rubber bumper glued in it to stop the cover vibration from wearing the case......the 49 had the same cover and pocket minus the little rubber bumper. All repacement covers had the bumper just not the ones that came on the 49sp from the factory.
 
Often the reason for 'cheaping out' where features are concerned isn't so much cost driven as it is to differentiate and justify the added retail expense of the 'pro model' vs 'farm model' or whatever.
So it can be a marketing driven thing more so than a bean counting thing, I've been involved in many battles of engineering vs marketing vs manufacturing vs corporate with everyone having very different goals...
 
There's always been a push/pull between marketing accountants and engineers. Save $5 here, $15 there per unit on features and quality. Sometimes the cost-cutting is only a minor inconvenience, sometimes a major one.

There's never been an industry standard for 'pro saws'; each manufacturer views the term differently. Echo, for example, released the 7310 as its' first' purely professional saw. And yet they use the term loosely for their other, smaller models.

And the Swedes viewed this differently than North Americans. Actual sales will always dictate what saws have what features. And then there are always some anomalies....like the 521 retailing for more than the 621 back in the day.

Husky struggled as well between the 'farm saws' and 'pro saws' designation. Some of their tough farm saws early on were pro saws in sheep's clothing.

The Internet makes fast work of actual working/service differences....where it used to take actual use, friends, and acquaintances to clue you in.

Kevin
 
Good day. I'm looking to replace the recoil pulley on my 2094. I'm not having much luck in finding one. Does anyone know of any other models that used a similar suitable pulley??
Just guessing....the 2095 should be the same? More parts were made for the 2095. And if that's the case, then even more parts out there for the Husky 395....given everything is the same.

Kevin
 
521E cleaned up and ready to go back together.

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Amature for the heater.

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Insulation was bad right against the armature so I used some liquid tape and a sleeve to insure no shorts.

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All aluminum flywheel with extra magnets to drive the heater circuit.

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Bowl of spaghetti.

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Mark
 
I finally got around to pulling the 910E apart again yesterday.It seems that whoever replaced the original wire decided to splice it in 3 different places & have quite an excess of length of wire that was wound up & tucked near the module.I cut out the damaged wire,spliced it together,& put the FW shield & recoil back on.I'd drained the fuel out of the saw because it'd be on it's side while working on it & the screw for the vent hose was gone.I was in the kitchen (just too dang cold to be outside) & gave it a few pulls to see if it'd just pop.The saw fired right up,Lol.My buddy was over working on putting some cabinet back together for me from last month's plumbing project & I think it surprised him.I just told him that there are advantages to being a single man,Lol.
 
I just told him that there are advantages to being a single man,Lol.

Amen to that! There are many advantages. Many a time on a cold day I've had a saw or two in the living room(on a tarp, as I'm not a barbarian) with the stereo on....lol. Nobody around to tell me I can't have "that thing" in the house.:rolleyes:

Kevin
 
Now I'm working on my 2nd 49SP.I got it in late summer or early fall & it needed a new chip put in as the previous chip was mounted incorrectly & it burned up.The carb also needed a rebuild.The saw needed a new switch which I got about a month ago.Just too much stuff on my plate the last few months & had some personal things I was trying to work through.I put the switch in the saw today & got a no go.I'll fiddle with it more tomorrow to see what's going on.While I'm at it,would anyone here have an air filter & cover that I can buy?
 
Now I'm working on my 2nd 49SP.I got it in late summer or early fall & it needed a new chip put in as the previous chip was mounted incorrectly & it burned up.The carb also needed a rebuild.The saw needed a new switch which I got about a month ago.Just too much stuff on my plate the last few months & had some personal things I was trying to work through.I put the switch in the saw today & got a no go.I'll fiddle with it more tomorrow to see what's going on.While I'm at it,would anyone here have an air filter & cover that I can buy?
I think I probably have what you need. I'll get out to the other building today and see what I can dig up.
 
Has any of you guys tried the proline AV buffers for the 6 series saws? OEMs are a but much these days. I've use some of the other cheapies in the past & wasn't overly impressed with them.
 
Sometimes I can be such a dumb ass.I took the 49SP out,pulled the plug (it was dry) & put a shot of fuel in the cylinder,put the plug back in & it fired.Good,it had spark.I checked the fuel & it looked to be rather low,so I topped it off,gave it a few pulls & it fired right up.It seems to be racing at quite a high idle.Where is the idle adjustment screw on the carb?Also,how many turns out on the needles?I've got them set at about 1 1/2 turns out.
 
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