Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

Ed,
If it's a Tilly carb...try 1 1/4 turns out on HIGH. 1 1/2 turns out on LOW to start with. Make sure though you don't have an air leak that's causing high idle, though. There will be one screw for the idle that pushes the same part of the carb that accelerates the engine. Don't have a 49sp or I'd take a pic of it.

Post a pic of the carb if ya want. If the carb won't adjust and you can't get the idle correct, expect an air leak.

Kevin

 

[heimannm]

 

[Cantdog]

Idle adjust screw is directly above the H&L needles and starting position for those is one turn out Final tune they end up around 7/8 turn on the h and 1 1/8 turn in the L but your results may vary

 

[Zero_sum]

I haven't but.....if the OE AV is just torn, there are commercial contact adhesives that will rebond them.....gas resistant too. Of course, if they're just sloppy worn out, nothing will help. Depending on the AV design, sometimes you can work a washer in there to help stiffen them again.

Kevin

They're not torn, just worn out & pulling on the throttle a little in the cut. The last china ones i tried were just a hair longer (barely got them in there) & while stiff enough transmitted more vibes to the handles & buzzed your hands.

 

[xl130]

I’ll check the recoil on my 394. I think they are slightly different though and won’t work well.

For the sake of research I tried a cheap Amazon recoil pulley that was listed as a replacement for Husqvarna 266, 272 etc.

It did not work without some modifications. The post in the recoil cover is a bit shorter that the thickness of the pulley by about 2mm. I butchered the pulley a bit with a drill and removed the extra material. It now work good. No guarantees that the plastic pulley with hold up to the compression of this saw but it’s doing the trick so far. A few other small items ti address but we got a runner now. Will keep an eye out for a OEM pulley,

 

[edju1958]

OK,I found the idle adjust screw & backed it out,still had a high idle & it seemed like the throttle lever was sticking.I took it apart to find that I had it assembled incorrectly.Put it together properly & still have the high idle.I tipped the saw from side to side & it idled down which tells me it needs crank seals.Can someone tell me what the aftermarket seal is for this saw?

 

[Real1shepherd]

Idle screw against carb and where adjusting screw is.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

OK,I found the idle adjust screw & backed it out,still had a high idle & it seemed like the throttle lever was sticking.I took it apart to find that I had it assembled incorrectly.Put it together properly & still have the high idle.I tipped the saw from side to side & it idled down which tells me it needs crank seals.Can someone tell me what the aftermarket seal is for this saw?

Probably 15mm x 30mm x 7mm(most older J'reds are this size throughout the models). The factory seal was 6mm thick.....7mm makes no difference at all. Most all seals now come from China.

In the past we've pictured many brands in here....not sure one is better than another all coming from China. Double lip seals are better by design than single lip seals......if you can find them that way. Not a big deal if you can't.

If the 49sp is different, someone will speak up, as I've never had one. I live through Robin on that model....

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Idle adjust screw is directly above the H&L needles and starting position for those is one turn out Final tune they end up around 7/8 turn on the h and 1 1/8 turn in the L but your results may vary

That's exactly the commercial lean tune for big cc HS Tilly saws. On vintage saws this old, probably safer to be a hair fatter. 1 turn out on HIGH and 1 1/4 out on LOW. Spoken by the guy who always runs leaner....but @40:1.

Kevin

 

[edju1958]

After doing some research I found that the seal (J'red part # 504146200) is indeed a 15x30x7 metric seal.I was able to find them locally at a local bearing house for $5.85 ea..This was the first set of seals that I'd ever replaced back about 6 yrs.ago & they were by far the easiest,IMO.I'll have this old girl up & running in no time,Lol.Thanks for your help guys!

 

[Cantdog]

15X30X7 will work but as Keven said OEM 504 14 62 00 was actually 15X30X6 and are no longer listed in any bearing house I’ve searched. Just when using the 7mm seal don’t drive them beyond flush with the case. On the 49 sp timing is not an issue when removing the points plate to replace the flywheel side seal as the points plate is installed in the full advance position. Also make certain you have the correct carb to isolation block gasket. Common air leak right there

 

[Cantdog]

That's exactly the commercial lean tune for big cc HS Tilly saws. On vintage saws this old, probably safer to be a hair fatter. 1 turn out on HIGH and 1 1/4 out on LOW. Spoken by the guy who always runs leaner....but @40:1.

Kevin

That sounds about right on the large saws!! The 50cc saws all run the Tilly HS 21 D as does the 601, 621 and 75cc 751. That’s quite a spread to cover tune ability on. So it stands to reason what a 75cc saw tunes to would be rich for a 50 cc saw and vice versa.

 

[heimannm]

I was testing the 521E last week to verify it would hold pressure and vacuum, someone before me had used a typical HS diamond shaped gasket between the carburetor and spacer block and it certainly did not work. I did not have the exact gasket needed on hand but I found one that was close enough so that is done. The three position heater switch arrived today (thanks again to Jay Hansen) so I will try to get that one finished up this week time permitting.



That is the back side of the carburetor you can see in the photo above, but they had the same gasket on both sides...

Mark

 

[Cantdog]

k I’m

OK,I found the idle adjust screw & backed it out,still had a high idle & it seemed like the throttle lever was sticking.I took it apart to find that I had it assembled incorrectly.Put it together properly & still have the high idle.I tipped the saw from side to side & it idled down which tells me it needs crank seals.Can someone tell me what the aftermarket seal is for this saw?

I take it you had the throttle plate in backwards?

you may know this already but the throttle plate needs to be centered in the bore when fully closed as well. If it isn’t centered it will hold the plate open and give a high idle. Loosen the throttle plate screw and make certain the plate centers all the way around while holding the throttle shaft in the fully closed position and tightening the throttle plate screw.
A drop of loc tight on the throttle plate screw threads is not a bad idea either.

 

[Cantdog]

I was testing the 521E last week to verify it would hold pressure and vacuum, someone before me had used a typical HS diamond shaped gasket between the carburetor and spacer block and it certainly did not work. I did not have the exact gasket needed on hand but I found one that was close enough so that is done. The three position heater switch arrived today (thanks again to Jay Hansen) so I will try to get that one finished up this week time permitting.

View attachment 1237432

That is the back side of the carburetor you can see in the photo above, but they had the same gasket on both sides...

Mark

Of course OEM gaskets are NLA but the same gasket from a Husky 61 or 266 etc. will work perfectly if you don’t want to make one

 

[heimannm]

Do you know off the top of your head if that is the same as 503 54 44-01 used on the 262? (Never mind, I looked it up and the 61/266 use 501 29 64-03)

The gasket on the left is what was on the saw, the one on the right is what I put in there. The center hole is slightly smaller but with the location of the impulse ports I didn't feel like I could make the hole any bigger.



The one on the left is not actually 86189 but that was the closest McCulloch number I could find...89057 is actually for the Tillotson HU carburetor used on the SP40 and PM510/515 McCulloch saws.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

k I’m

I take it you had the throttle plate in backwards?

you may know this already but the throttle plate needs to be centered in the bore when fully closed as well. If it isn’t centered it will hold the plate open and give a high idle. Loosen the throttle plate screw and make certain the plate centers all the way around while holding the throttle shaft in the fully closed position and tightening the throttle plate screw.
A drop of loc tight on the throttle plate screw threads is not a bad idea either.

No,I didn't have that plate out,had no reason to take it apart.I just did a carb rebuild.The plastic thingy on the right side where the throttle lever goes through & hits the throttle lever on the carb wasn't attached properly.So the throttle was pretty much running WOT.Why they used plastic is beyond me,probably so they could sell more plastic pieces as they broke like mine did when I got the saw.

 

[dave ensign]

I never had a problem with the "plastic thingy" and I have three 49's. As for the gasket, very easy to make yourself.

Dave

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Bye bye 670 Champ. Some bubblewrap and then trash bag. Then

Collector wanted and we did some trading.

They run great for a 50mm with 34mm stroke. Was highly impressed with it.