Jonsered Chainsaws

[cbfarmall]

On that type clutch, I've put a hose clamp around the shoes to hold it together, start the spring in the shoes, clamp it in a vice to hold the spring in and work the spring into the other shoes. This requires removing the spider from the crankshaft. I'm talking the 6 shoe Homelite clutches but this doesn't look that different.

 

[newwood]

On that type clutch, I've put a hose clamp around the shoes to hold it together, start the spring in the shoes, clamp it in a vice to hold the spring in and work the spring into the other shoes. This requires removing the spider from the crankshaft. I'm talking the 6 shoe Homelite clutches but this doesn't look that different.

Cbfarmall: yes, I can imagine a 6 piece would be even trickier, making the hose clamp a good way to corral all those pieces! In my case, removing the centerpiece with the three arms is proving to be difficult as well and looks like I would have to fabricate some sort of gear puller to get it off the crankshaft: doable, but something I was hoping to avoid if there was another technique. The spring is really strong so definitely need a mechanical advantage to get that puppy back on. But thanks for the note, it may be the only way.

 

[edju1958]

OK guys,I've run into a problem with removing the clutch spider from the crankshaft on my 49SP.The shoes & spring came off after multiple tries with a 3 pin clutch removal tool (for Homelites).For the life of me I've tried getting it off both righty & lefty..Whioch way is it supposed to come off?

 

[newwood]

OK guys,I've run into a problem with removing the clutch spider from the crankshaft on my 49SP.The shoes & spring came off after multiple tries with a 3 pin clutch removal tool (for Homelites).For the life of me I've tried getting it off both righty & lefty..Whioch way is it supposed to come off?

If the design of the 49SP is the same as my 52: it’s neither lefty or righty, it’s a straight pull off.

 

[newwood]

I just checked—definitely the same pull straight off the crankshaft (see diagram and photo from Sunday of my 52). As I said in that post—the hard part comes in putting it back together and getting g the spring on (I’m still working on that)

 

[edju1958]

I got the 535 last night & went over it quickly.I had a good laugh at the "air filter" that someone put in it - a scrubby sponge with a hole poked through it.Probably didn't do much good at filtration.The seller said it "probably needs carb cleaning".I start with simple things first.I changed the fuel filter & had to dump out the fuel that was in it (yes,the dummy shipped it with fuel in it).Put fresh fuel in it,pulled it over about 8-10 times & it firerd right up.I did a carb adjustment & it's a runner!.I'll get pics on here after I get the bar & chain put on it.Here's a pic of the scrubby "air filter".

 

[heimannm]

I was able to get the 52E and the 521E finished up today thanks primarily to the goodness of Jay Hansen who has supplied several hard to find parts.







The area in the display devoted to Sweden is getting a bit crowded. Hopefully Phase II of the museum will be completed and available later this year and I can rearrange these saws so they're not so crowded.





Mark

 

[heimannm]

The 521E turned out pretty nice. Fired right up on prime but for now at least it will be a Schrodinger's saw and we will assume the heated handle works as intended. I may have the high and low heat wires switched, I'm not sure which is which coming from the windings under the flywheel.







The brake works.









Mark

 

[edju1958]

I've run into a problem with the recoil on the 535 - I can't get it off the saw after I've taken the 4 screws out.It's acting like the sp[ring is catching on something preventing the recoil assembly from coming off the saw.I don't want to force it & end up breaking things as parts for these saws are hard to come by.I just wanted to take it off for a good cleaning.

 

[newwood]

I've run into a problem with the recoil on the 535 - I can't get it off the saw after I've taken the 4 screws out.It's acting like the sp[ring is catching on something preventing the recoil assembly from coming off the saw.I don't want to force it & end up breaking things as parts for these saws are hard to come by.I just wanted to take it off for a good cleaning.

The exploded diagram looks just like my 525 —the recoil spring shouldn’t be at risk: it’s mounted under the starter rope spool. But I can’t think of anything that would catch unless it’s part of the plastic housing (the cover you’re removing) or the pawls on the flywheel that engage the starter rope spool. The upper right front of the starter assembly does have a molded plastic piece that inserts a ways and could catch. See photos of 525.

 

[edju1958]

I got the recoil off & cleaned everything up.On the 535 there are only 3 screws that hold the recoil onto the saw.There is a 4th hole drilled in the recoil on the upper right,but there is no boss in the saw.

Now I'm not sure if the oiler is workiong.If it is it's oiling very lightly.How do I adjust the oiler so it puts out more oil?

 

[newwood]

I got the recoil off & cleaned everything up.On the 535 there are only 3 screws that hold the recoil onto the saw.There is a 4th hole drilled in the recoil on the upper right,but there is no boss in the saw.

Now I'm not sure if the oiler is workiong.If it is it's oiling very lightly.How do I adjust the oiler so it puts out more oil?

On the 535 there should be an adjustment screen on the bottom of the saw. Easiest to assess output if you have the bar and chain removed.

What was the sticking point for the recoil?

 

[edju1958]

The recoil seemed to be sticking under the top engine cover.I loosened 2 of the screws & the recoil came right off,but I had to work it a bit.

Which way do I turn the oiler screw to increase oil flow?

 

[newwood]

The recoil seemed to be sticking under the top engine cover.I loosened 2 of the screws & the recoil came right off,but I had to work it a bit.

Which way do I turn the oiler screw to increase oil flow?

I don’t recall screw direction to increase flow

 

[edju1958]

Something's not adding up on this suposed 535.I couldn't find an adjustment screw in the bottom of the saw for the oiler which would indicate it's not a 535.According to some literature that was sent to me by @ray benson,the 590 & a couple other models had no adjustment on the oiler.

As for the non-oiling issue,I pulled the brake/clutch cover off & had oil hanging on the outer bar plate.Upon further examination,I noticed that there were no oil holes in the bar.There is a slot on the inner bar plate for oil to flow.Apparently the saw has an incorrect bar on it.I went through a similar situation with the bar that was on my 525..I have an older Oregon book & saw that there's a D009 bar that just a hair bigger than the studs (bar slot is supposed to be 9 mm.& it should be 8.2 mm.)I'm wondering if less than 1 mm.would make that much of a difference?

 

[ray benson]

Something's not adding up on this suposed 535.I couldn't find an adjustment screw in the bottom of the saw for the oiler which would indicate it's not a 535.According to some literature that was sent to me by @ray benson,the 590 & a couple other models had no adjustment on the oiler.

As for the non-oiling issue,I pulled the brake/clutch cover off & had oil hanging on the outer bar plate.Upon further examination,I noticed that there were no oil holes in the bar.There is a slot on the inner bar plate for oil to flow.Apparently the saw has an incorrect bar on it.I went through a similar situation with the bar that was on my 525..I have an older Oregon book & saw that there's a D009 bar that just a hair bigger than the studs (bar slot is supposed to be 9 mm.& it should be 8.2 mm.)I'm wondering if less than 1 mm.would make that much of a difference?

The small Clymer service manual says - Oil pump output on Models 510SP and 535SP is not adjustable. Oil pump output on Models 455 and 535 is adjustable.

 

[steele_109]

The bar should be a k095 that's the small mount.That's whats on my 535 and 520sp.I think they are both 325.

 

[edju1958]

I know my 525 is 3/8 & I'm fairly certain the 535 is 3/8 as well.No # on the chain drive links.