Jonsered model 90 questions

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Chris J.

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I'm installing a new tensioner on the saw. The parts lists drawing it shows a washer/gasket (part 4183800) that goes between the pin (part 4055300) that goes thru the adjusting screw (part 4026400) and the crankcase. The piece didn't come with the tensioner that I purchased, but I'm near some well-stocked hardware stores. and some saw shops. Can anyone tell me if I need a metal or rubber piece?

Also I removed the chain catcher to clean it up, & found that it also serves as some kind vent and/or access to the oiler pump? The parts list & the Clymer 10th edition service manual (no model 90, but has model 801) aren't real clear on this. Any explanation would be appreciated.

Maybe you'll get a laugh out of this. I rebuilt the carb, but wasn't ready to install it. I decided that it shouldn't be sitting out on the countertop, so I put it somewhere for safe keeping. And now I can't find it. I'll give the garage a good search this weekend.

All input is appreciated. Chris J.
 
Lost part

Wait til you get a little older, I have set the whole saw down in a safe place and couldn't find the darn thing. Better yet my glasses.
Dave
 
Know the feeling

Been wearing glasses since I was 8, am now 44. If I set them down somewhere where I don't usually put them I'm in big trouble. Haven't yet misplaced an assembled saw, but my neighbor does return tools to me that I forgot about loaning to him. Good thing is he's honest, & he knows a few things about chainsaws (he grew up on 80 acres in the Arkansas Ozarks). I've tried to get him interested in this site.

Chris J.
 
Mange: I can certainly try.

I have a dig cam, but I haven't yet attempted to upload a photo here. I can probably get the tensioner & chain catcher 'vent/hole' in one photo. I also have the parts list (courtesey of George Blake-thanks again) saved as pdf.files.

Hey, you're in Sweden & like old saws. Have any experience with Jred 90s that you can share? I need all the help that I can get--If I lived in a village of chainsaw technicians, I'd be the village idiot.

Chris J.
 
Jonsereds mod.90

This one is a little new for my collection.
I will help the best I can. I do not have this modell, but I have worked on/with one, a few years ago.

If you can't get original you can make one easy.
If you are in a hurry put a skrewdriver in the bar and press it out, then tighten the nuts.

About the vent. I am not sure but i think It will be tank vent.

I will take some Pics tomorrow, here it's 23:35 so I will get to dreaming.

George is an orakel, Amazing collection, knows all about Swede saws, And wery nice to taklk with.


Mange
 
That's a small metal washer that goes between the adjuster screw and the split pin.

I have several if you need one !
 
Thanks, Mange & George

Once the light bulb in my head decided to come on, I realized that it's a simple washer, there to make sure the pin doesn't somehow pull through the hole.

Am still wondering about the vent under/behind the chain catcher. I removed & cleaned the gaskets, but I left the filter?membrane? in place. It seems to be in good condition, no visual detoriation. Is changing it just-in-case a good idea, or leave it be if everything functions okay? Maybe there's more to it than I think?

I know that there've been at least two threads re cleaners for saws. I'm trying get this saw as clean as possible while I have it partially disassembled. I can't explain why, it's just something that I do. Because I'm still learning, I try to avoid pulling the clutch and/or flywheel unless it's really necessary. Is there a cleaner that can be safely sprayed into & behind the clutch & flyweel, that doesn't need to be wiped or blown out? My concern is damaging the electronics behind the flywheel. I've been using straight gas for cleaning under the theory that saws run on gas (mix of course) & therefore are designed so that a little gas won't hurt them. Of course I use the gas outdoors, & I give the saws & parts plenty of time to drain & dry.

I apologize for being longwinded. As always, all input is appreciated.

Chris J.
 
Chris- gasoline is one of the best solvents out there. But if you're cleaning around delicate electronics or carburetor components then aerosol Brake cleaner ( non-chlorinated, like Brakleen ) is your best bet.

It's recommended to blow out any saw component you use a solvent on, just for the fact that the solvent can change the surface texture of paint or certain soft metals. However, if compressed air is not available, and wiping everything down is taking too long, then I'd recommend using a citrus-based solvent that you can leave residue of on your saw without worrying about chemical damage. CitraKleen or one of the many citrus cleaner available in a spray bottle will do a fine job, and of course it's easier on your lungs.

Aerosol electronic motor cleaner will do a decent job too.
 
I agree with J.J.

I the chops I have been in befor, we used a washer. It was a closed space about 0,5m wide tat had temperized (40C) Diesel in it. We take the thing (motly generators/starters/ fuelpumps/drills/ and other el.) apart, and put in side then the fuel sqirts on the items from all directions.
When the diesel is heated a little it will vaporize.
Just thougt someone might want to know.

Mange
 
I've thought about the Citrus cleaners,

and I'm glad to hear that they're OK to use. I don't yet have an air compressor, but hope to have a decent small one in about a week or two.

At some point someone repaired the on/off wire by soldering it together (I'm guessing that they also didn't want to remove the flywheel). Some of the wire was left exposed, so I've wrapped it several layers of electrical tape. Is this a potential problem, or just leave as long as everything works?

Thanks Jacob J. & Mange for the input.

Chris J.
 
If you are interested and like too have everything tip top, fix.
If you want it to start and run properly every time, fix.
If not, leave it alone till it is a problem.

Mange.
 

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