I am sure we all have the bad luck of throwing a chain and are use to it junking the drive links. My question is what do you do with the chains. I have had a few that I have filed down the burs and got them to run like new but not sure if its really worth it. The suggested option is of course removing and replacing the junked links and of course if I was running a big saw the chain may be worth spending the money on. But it seems I usually only throw chains on my 200t (and no not that often) usually when I am rushing and trying to finish and not paying enough attention to saw maintenance. To me if I cant clean the small chain enough with a file then I would rather just toss it and replace the entire chain. How do you guys deal with these?
Junked drive links replace, file or garbage
- Thread starter Tree Pig
- Start date
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Several threads on this. Common issue.
I prefer to hold the chain 'inside out', so that the drive links are exposed, and clean them up on a ScotchBrite deburring wheel mounted on a bench grinder. Goes pretty quick.
A fine grinding wheel can also be used, but you won't get the same polished finish.
Philbert
I prefer to hold the chain 'inside out', so that the drive links are exposed, and clean them up on a ScotchBrite deburring wheel mounted on a bench grinder. Goes pretty quick.
A fine grinding wheel can also be used, but you won't get the same polished finish.
Philbert
+1 on what philberr says....the scotch brite sanding discs for die grinder work well too.
No! Mail them to me, c/o Philbert's 'No-Kill' Chain Shelter!
If they are interesting enough, will post them in the Chain Salvage Challenge thread.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/
Philbert
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Put it on the saw loosely and run it for a few seconds. The burrs will come right off.
As long as we are having this discussion . . .
The other 'redneck' methods often discussed are to run the damaged links until the bar grooves and sprockets wear off the burrs; or to flatten them first with a ball-peen hammer, then run them as above. Both are 'field expedient' options: meaning, if you are in the middle of nowhere, and have few options, these might let you keep on cutting. But they put extra wear on the other components. Good reason to carry extra chains in the field.
I can buff off burrs on my grinder much faster than I can spin in new drive links - plus it saves me the pre-sets and replacing all of the cutters which probably are not damaged. The only time I have had to replace drive links that jumped the bar was when some of those with the oil holes actually broke off at that point.
Throwing chain on hand held saws can be due to loose tension, but often happens when the bar gets tangled in a lot of long, thin, green twigs. See it a lot in storm clean up work. Just one of those chain maintenance things like fixing rocked cutters, adjusting depth gauges, cleaning out gullets, etc. My local STIHL dealer even has this posted as part of his sharpening schedule: $2 per loop, when having the chain sharpened.
Philbert
The other 'redneck' methods often discussed are to run the damaged links until the bar grooves and sprockets wear off the burrs; or to flatten them first with a ball-peen hammer, then run them as above. Both are 'field expedient' options: meaning, if you are in the middle of nowhere, and have few options, these might let you keep on cutting. But they put extra wear on the other components. Good reason to carry extra chains in the field.
I can buff off burrs on my grinder much faster than I can spin in new drive links - plus it saves me the pre-sets and replacing all of the cutters which probably are not damaged. The only time I have had to replace drive links that jumped the bar was when some of those with the oil holes actually broke off at that point.
Throwing chain on hand held saws can be due to loose tension, but often happens when the bar gets tangled in a lot of long, thin, green twigs. See it a lot in storm clean up work. Just one of those chain maintenance things like fixing rocked cutters, adjusting depth gauges, cleaning out gullets, etc. My local STIHL dealer even has this posted as part of his sharpening schedule: $2 per loop, when having the chain sharpened.
Philbert
sgreanbeans
Treeaculterologist
On small ones, if it is a deal where you gotta take a link out and replace, I just pitch the chain. Its cheaper to buy a new one once you figure your time involved. Kinda like sending 2 $20 per hour guys to look for a $10 shovel. Big chains are worth having fixed. I had a 36" that had a couple bad links in it, chain was new. Dealer charged me 10 bucks to fix it. I always carry many extra chains, for each saw. I never sharpen on site.
sgreanbeans
Treeaculterologist
LOL, I bought that thing a long time ago, your right, so weak and lame!
mic687
ArboristSite Operative
I just had a drive sprocket on my 650 come apart and it tore up 5 drive links on a 32" chain but, as the chain was fairly new I just replaced the links. I have filed the drivers if they are not too bad.
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