Just picked up a Jonsered 630 super, no fire??

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oldiron

ArboristSite Member
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Dec 15, 2010
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Right here between Devil's Den and Hell's Hollar
I just picked this 630 super up yesterday, got it from the original owner with all the paperwork etc. Very clean saw but it has no fire, he was running it and it quit. So I am thinking ignition coil, I am going to tear into it later but I thought I would dig around for parts and see what was available. From the parts list that came with the saw it appears that it came with a 2 piece ignition coil / module. The only thing I have found is the one piece design which from what I can tell will require a flywheel change to make it work. Has anyone done this? will the later model flywheel go onto an earlier saw? This will be my first Jred, into a house of Stihls and one older Echo.

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Try unhooking switch first and check for spark.Still no spark ? Then the big black module should be the problem,usually at 95 %.The one piece wont fit on your saw,case being different as well the flywheel and the crank keway too_On the one piece ignition,the key is molded on the flywheel itself and has a different shape,more roundish.
 
Try unhooking switch first and check for spark.Still no spark ? Then the big black module should be the problem,usually at 95 %.The one piece wont fit on your saw,case being different as well the flywheel and the crank keway too_On the one piece ignition,the key is molded on the flywheel itself and has a different shape,more roundish.


Great thanks for the info, I guess I will have to look for the black box! Do you know if they are still available?
 
Great thanks for the info, I guess I will have to look for the black box! Do you know if they are still available?

Bailey's also check Ebay 61 Husqvarna coil. Scroll down in the listing others have missed application by not scrolling down. Great saw same as 61 Husky cept red got a couple and a red one to build.
Shep
 
Well it appears fire is not the issue, compression is the trouble. Peeking in the exhaust port it looks like its piston time :bang: I will tear down further and inspect, but minimum is the piston and ring at this point. :msp_mad: oh well I keep telling myself it was a bargain!!!!:D
 
Had the same deal on a 670, passed the drop test, no fire tried 14 new coils(had to put the boots on still haven't figured that one out) I finally got spark rebuilt carb., new line and filter. Wouldn't run, looked in ex still had the lines on piston. After pulling the cord a million times did comp. check 90 psi, pulled cyl piston scored around the corner. 630/61 is a good saw worth fixing. I have lots of OEM new and used stuff if you can't find something. I think I have a real nice OEM piston.
Shep
 
Had the same deal on a 670, passed the drop test, no fire tried 14 new coils(had to put the boots on still haven't figured that one out) I finally got spark rebuilt carb., new line and filter. Wouldn't run, looked in ex still had the lines on piston. After pulling the cord a million times did comp. check 90 psi, pulled cyl piston scored around the corner. 630/61 is a good saw worth fixing. I have lots of OEM new and used stuff if you can't find something. I think I have a real nice OEM piston.
Shep

Cool, I got this baby right from your neck of the woods, it was bought new from Macon County Hardware. I ordered a piston from Baileys. If I had known I would have gave you a shout before I ordered it. I will let you know when I get it back together.
 
Update: new piston installed, plenty of fire 160lbs compression. Damn carb is flooding so bad it won't run. Had the carb on and off so many times I have lost count. It is a Tillison with the diaphram on the bottom. I have cleaned, adjusted, adjusted, adjusted :bang::bang: Any helpful hints? I can't find a happy medium its either too lean, or pours fuel in the crankcase so bad it nearly fills it up....
 
What are you adjusting? A carb will only flood if the needle is off its seat or there is dirt in between the needle and seat, or the seat is damaged. The metering arm needs to be set correctly and the carb gasketinstalled against the body first, the diaphragm installed next and then the cover to have the metering side of the carb together properly.
 
Yep everything Jerry said....and...make sure the metering lever spring is in place and not damaged in any way...also make sure the diaphram pin is located correctly in the slot in the metering lever...make sure the metering lever is set flush with the carb body next to it...one turn out from just snug on both the H&L for the initial startup setting...AGAIN make sure...gasket first..diaphram second..then the cover...should take right off and run fine.
 
Thanks for the advice, the diaphram needle and seat lever is what I have been adjusting on, it either floods or it is so lean it just pops a time or two. Cant seem to find the happy place, even downloaded the service manual from Tillison. :msp_angry:Ya ever get the funny feeling someone has been into something before and did not get all the parts back in the right places? It's a very simple carb, but I can't get the damn thing to run for love nor money????:dizzy: Oh yeah pulled both jets and blew through all the passages with air??? Just thought I would add that in. BTW I feel like that commercial with the guy that has the chainsaw pullers arm!
 
If you didn't, get a carb kit and do it right. If the needle isn't perfect or the lever has wear, no amount of adjusting will help. Presure test the carb before you install it. Clean out the fuel tank and replace the line and filter too.
 
oldiron

Have you tried just putting a little fuel mix into the carb and see if it runs then? This would be without fuel in the tank. It should run for a few seconds this way. If it doesn't it's probably flooded or there are timing issues.
 
oldiron

Have you tried just putting a little fuel mix into the carb and see if it runs then? This would be without fuel in the tank. It should run for a few seconds this way. If it doesn't it's probably flooded or there are timing issues.

It will run for a few seconds but bogs has no throttle response and will not idle. Just for kicks how would you adjust the timing? I don't think the pickup coil screw holes are slotted to allow for movement.
 
It will run for a few seconds but bogs has no throttle response and will not idle. Just for kicks how would you adjust the timing? I don't think the pickup coil screw holes are slotted to allow for movement.

I know of only one reason why the timing would/might be off......sheered flywheel key......I don't know if this saw has a steel or an alum key......might be worth looking into.
 

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