Keep Poulan Pro 330 or get Poulan Pro 5020 or other saw?

[Modifiedmark]

The 555 looks very good in that perspective!

It would be a shame if it didn't, the basic design of the 330 dates to the 80's.

 

[Streblerm]

You know that has me thinking. The PP330 back in 05 when I first looked at them listed out at about $400 Now 8 years later I would think that the list would be in the neighborhood of what a new 550XP would cost?

That makes me feel better about what I have invested in my first 330/380 project. I was looking at it from the perspective of what they cost on close out at tractor supply.

I can't believe how reasonable parts are and how available they are. I see people selling parts on eBay and often they are asking twice what I can buy them for. Example: I was looking for a chainbrake for one. They were showing up NLA so I was watching them on eBay and they were going for more than I wanted to spend. I finally ended getting one for $22 from a poulan distributor and it came with a muffler! I had a melted top cover so I checked I out. $7. I can't imagine what the plastic would cost for say a Stihl 034, if you could still even get it. New carb, $27. It isn't even worth buying a kit.

The more I work with these saws the more I appreciate their solid, simple design. They have everything you need and nothing you don't.

The newest crop of huskies is definitely a huge step forward but I have to wonder if minimally maintained versions will still be in use 30 years down the road.

 

[joecool85]

I am not interested in buying another 330 right now, I have 4 (3 muffler modded and 1 ported) and quite frankly that saw displaced the Stihl 036Pro I had for years, It runs about the same (ported is lots faster than the Stihl), weighs about the same, and parts are much easier and cheaper to buy. The 330 is a Pro Grade saw by anyone's standards.

The 5020 is a homeowner's grade saw and is not nearly the piece of the 330, and IMHO will be far less durable. Power will be no where close to the 330, I've run both and really no comparison, I actually think the 295 is right even with the 5020.

If you are determined to get out of the 330 then my suggestion would to find a good used PP295 or PP4620 (without tool less adjuster). These are far better saws than the 5020, lighter, and would be more durable IMHO. A better saw just not as big of a step down.

On a side note, I would think the 330 and 339XP would make a perfect 2 saw plan for what you described as your cutting needs. The only change I might make is to put a 20" (.325 x 8pin rim). Below you will find a video of a 330 I built a couple of weeks ago (it is running a 7pin and needs an 8 pin). Does yours run like this one?

[video=youtube_share;4QA4z9dD6ZQ]http://youtu.be/4QA4z9dD6ZQ[/video]

Yes, my ported one will "dead stop" me if I try to drop start (at times) it but if I use the same starting technique as the one in the video I never have a problem.

Mine runs like that (though yours seems to cut a bit faster) and I start just like you do in the video actually, I never drop start. Sometimes I even start it on the ground with my foot in the handle.

Maybe this thing just doesn't like starting in the cold? Anyone else run one in sub 10F weather? That's about the coldest I cut at, but when the weather is good (sunny, not a lot of snow, frozen ground) I like to cut and I don't want to be down to just my 339XP.

 

[joecool85]

All two strokes will make some fumes- goes with the territory. If that is the real issue- why not consider a elec saw and ext cord?

My 339XP doesn't bother me. I like 2 stroke, this one just stinks and when you're felling the exhaust practically blows in your face. Maybe it is running rich...I might have my local chainsaw shop put the tach on it and adjust it for me. Also I'll take the recoil off and make sure it is all lined up proper - I wonder if that's part of my issue too.

Other than those two things its been a good saw. It does periodically stumble and die out at idle. I've read a few threads here with the same issue and the only remedy was a new carb evidently. I've got it tuned so it doesn't do it hardly ever, maybe I have it rich to keep it from dying at idle?

 

[Chris-PA]

With a chainsaw carb it must be tuned rich at idle. There is no accelerator pump so the idle circuit must provide the extra fuel for acceleration. That means you must set it richer than would give the best, cleanest idle. I lean the L needle as far as I can and still get good throttle response. There is little danger of engine damage from the L being set lean, and little chance you'd be able to get the idle actually on the lean side and still be able to accelerate.

Different engines and carbs will require different amounts of extra idle fuel.

 

[the westspartan]

To the OP, are you using synthetic oil? If not, you will will notice a substantial drop in fumes when you switch. Is your fuel old? That will sure make some fumes if it is. As long as the saw is in tune, the fumes shouldn't be that bad. I am very health and environmentally conscious, and the only time the fumes bother me on my saws is occasionally when I am milling with the my Jonsered 2095 in real big wood. The exhaust exits near my face at time and that can be annoying. I wonder if a muffler mod would help you. You could set it up to exit in a different direction so when you are felling it is less of an issue. Good luck.

 

[joecool85]

With a chainsaw carb it must be tuned rich at idle. There is no accelerator pump so the idle circuit must provide the extra fuel for acceleration. That means you must set it richer than would give the best, cleanest idle. I lean the L needle as far as I can and still get good throttle response. There is little danger of engine damage from the L being set lean, and little chance you'd be able to get the idle actually on the lean side and still be able to accelerate.

Different engines and carbs will require different amounts of extra idle fuel.

That's how I have mine tuned.

 

[joecool85]

To the OP, are you using synthetic oil? If not, you will will notice a substantial drop in fumes when you switch. Is your fuel old? That will sure make some fumes if it is. As long as the saw is in tune, the fumes shouldn't be that bad. I am very health and environmentally conscious, and the only time the fumes bother me on my saws is occasionally when I am milling with the my Jonsered 2095 in real big wood. The exhaust exits near my face at time and that can be annoying. I wonder if a muffler mod would help you. You could set it up to exit in a different direction so when you are felling it is less of an issue. Good luck.

The fuel isn't old, not using synthetic oil though. That said, it doesn't bother me on my other saw or on any other saws I've used in the past for that matter.

You may be right about doing a muffler mod and moving the exhaust exit location so it isn't blowing in my face during felling. I still think I may be upgrading anyway. Not to a 5020 though, I've shot that down as it looks like it wouldn't be worth it. Currently looking at a refurbed 362XP - auto tune baby!

 

[nmurph]

...362XP - auto tune baby!

No such critter.

 

[joecool85]

No such critter.

I haven't seen it in person, only talked to my shop on the phone about it. He only said "562" and that it was auto-tune. But there is a 562XP as well as 562XP-G according to Husqvarna's website: HUSQVARNA 562 XP® - Professional chainsaws

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

550xp can be had for under $500, i have no clue what the other saws mentioned cost

PHO? Cheapest I have found for 555 with 20" is $529

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

No way would I make that swap from a 330 to a 5020. I think the OP is just wanting a new saw and the $200 price of the 5020 is attractive.

I would take a 330 all day compared to a bunch of higher priced saws out there.

Being I still havent run a 5020. Mark is there that much differences in the 2 in the cut?

I'm still wondering on 5020 and havent took the $179 challenge :msp_rolleyes:. I'm in the middle of testing the new 550 and just ordered a 545 to test with next.

 

[lmbrman]

PHO? Cheapest I have found for 555 with 20" is $529

550xp, bar and chain of my choice, pro or laminated $490

550xpg $529

I couldn't say no

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

550xp, bar and chain of my choice, pro or laminated $490

550xpg $529

I couldn't say no

My bad I thought you said 555. I see now 550. 550 PHO can be had $40 less. But if you need b+c thats a good deal. :msp_wink:

 

[cmarti]

I'm still wondering on 5020 and havent took the $179 challenge :msp_rolleyes:. I'm in the middle of testing the new 550 and just ordered a 545 to test with next.

I feel bad you are sooo busy testing good saws:msp_biggrin:!

 

[Modifiedmark]

I haven't seen it in person, only talked to my shop on the phone about it. He only said "562" and that it was auto-tune. But there is a 562XP as well as 562XP-G according to Husqvarna's website: HUSQVARNA 562 XP® - Professional chainsaws

You said 362XP in your earlier post, not 562XP in this post.

Changing directions now though are we? Before you said you didn't need a saw as large as a 330 now your talking a larger 562XP's? :msp_rolleyes: Just like I thought, your just looking to scratch a itch for a new saw! :msp_biggrin: Not that theres any thing wrong with that, were not your wife, you dont have to hide it here. :hmm3grin2orange:

I would take a 330 all day compared to a bunch of higher priced saws out there.

Being I still havent run a 5020. Mark is there that much differences in the 2 in the cut?

I'm still wondering on 5020 and havent took the $179 challenge :msp_rolleyes:. I'm in the middle of testing the new 550 and just ordered a 545 to test with next.

Well yeah, the 330's stronger, and its suppose to be!

 

[LegDeLimber]

Sitting here with a chuckle at that Scratching the Itch sentiment.
That thread of Modifiedmark's helped tip me over to grabbing the 5020.

I got a Poulan 2900 that seems to pull pretty well.
Just need to do the whole fuel system
as it was exposed to ethanol before I found this site
and you guys clued me in to
Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

Funny how a google search didn't seem to get me any results
for the non alky gas,
So that's why I was running the blended stuff.
also local airport wouldn't let me buy from them.

At some point I'll get the oiler parts and do the carb and lines
on the greenie.
It's the one that I trimmed a bit off the flywheel.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

You know that has me thinking. The PP330 back in 05 when I first looked at them listed out at about $400 Now 8 years later I would think that the list would be in the neighborhood of what a new 550XP would cost?

BTW I just looked up my photos, a PP330 is only 3 oz heavier then a PP5020.

No way would I make that swap from a 330 to a 5020. I think the OP is just wanting a new saw and the $200 price of the 5020 is attractive.

The price of $200 for the 330 a few years ago was attractive also...

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Well yeah, the 330's stronger, and its suppose to be!

:msp_tongue: I would sure hope so with 4cc more. :msp_lol:

I was wondering if it was like the 45cc 346 compared to a 50cc 346. Only thing I could tell between those two stock for stock and 5cc difference was the torque difference in the cut.

 

[joecool85]

You said 362XP in your earlier post, not 562XP in this post.

Changing directions now though are we? Before you said you didn't need a saw as large as a 330 now your talking a larger 562XP's? :msp_rolleyes: Just like I thought, your just looking to scratch a itch for a new saw! :msp_biggrin: Not that theres any thing wrong with that, were not your wife, you dont have to hide it here. :hmm3grin2orange:






Well yeah, the 330's stronger, and its suppose to be!

Yeah, that would have been a typo then, didn't realize what I typed. My mistake. And it's not that I just feel like getting something new (although that is always great), it's just that I don't like the clunkiness of the 330, nor it's stinky exhaust. My 339xp has spoiled me. I didn't think we'd be able to afford anything more than a $200-250 saw, but we got a good tax return thanks to having my 1 year old son around and we should be able to afford $350-400 on a saw. I don't think I can beat a $350 562XP w/20" bar from a dealer no less. What would $350 get me new...maybe a 450 that could pull a 16" bar?

It's true that the 330 is more saw than I need, I probably only need 50cc and a 16" bar - so it's not much for overkill. The 562XP would be WAY overkill, but for the price it really makes more sense than anything else. Plus I'm thinking it might handle light milling work which I'd like to do some day.

So the short of it, I do want to upgrade from the 330...the 562XP would be well past an upgrade and into the realm of just embracing my CAD, but I'm ok with that