Knocking the dust off with a new CSM

[petersenj20]

I haven't milled for some time due to "hurting" my old mill saw, 028. Got an 039 and made some unistrut rails. I'm going to move the bumper bearings so they can run inside the unistrut channel. Just happens they are a perfect fit.
I was getting a pretty smooth cut until I tightened the bungee cord on the counter weight and was causing vibrations. Loosened and smoothed back out.

I mill on an incline because it is much easier on my back and the saw vibrations and weight pretty much pulls itself through the wood. I don't know why most people mill flat. I milled up a black walnut I have had a while and thought I would never get it cut up. Here are the pics.

 

[mtngun]

I don't know why most people mill flat

Because logs are heavy so they get milled where they fall.

Nice homemade mill.

 

[BobL]

Nice looking wood there Petersenj20

I haven't milled for some time due to "hurting" my old mill saw, 028. Got an 039 and made some unistrut rails. I'm going to move the bumper bearings so they can run inside the unistrut channel. Just happens they are a perfect fit.

By all means give it a go but my experiences with doing this ran up against the following problems.

• The unistrut rails has to be very firmly fixed onto the log as the saw will vibrate seriously up against the unistrut and make the unistrut oscillate like a big leaf spring. By firm I do mean firm as in tek screwed to the log or cant. It's just much better if the wheels are up against the log.
• Locking the position of the mill relative to the unistrut made it more difficult to navigate around lumps and bumps on the side of the log. One way around this was to allow a big enough gap between the powerhead and the log but this exposed an unnecessary amount of moving chain near the operator. It's a safer operation if as much bar as possible is buried on the inboard side of the log.
• Putting the bearings inside the unistrut meant the unistrut had to be used every time. Sometimes it's just more flexible if the mill can be used without rails at all.
• I found I like to occasionally be able to rotate the mill in the cut. If the mill is locked to the unistrut this is not possible
• I found it harder to unbog a saw that grabs if the mill is locked to the unistrut

Also there should be no need to add weight on the outboard end of the mill if the log is rotated about 30 degrees - like this.

I only do this occasionally when I am milling a narrow log with by shorter bar and milling rails. Ever since I added my 64" rails I rarely change over.

 

[petersenj20]

Thanks Bob. Very good advice. I believe I have read all your posts with rails, but haven't figured out how to keep them from twisting. I use the rails for every cut to ensure nice and flat/parallel. I ensure there is no twist with winding sticks and shim where needed. It's amazing how many times I have to shim.

You too make a good point mtngun. I've never had a problem moving logs how I like so It hadn't occurred to me this dilemma.