Knot question

[propliner]

What kind of knots work best for tying off a chunk to be lowered using a block? What works best for speed, security and ease of untieing? I'm looking for some new (possibly better) ideas.

Pictures would be great.

 

[Macclay]

bowline, the only way to go.

 

[Tree Pig]

bowline backed up with a half hitch to prevent slipping.

Anyone else here stick a piece of whatever in the backbone of the bowline knot to prevent it from locking up too much.

 

[mrowens33]

?what about a clove hitch

Why not a clove hitch with two half hitches to finish it off?
That's from Tree climbers companion page 75

 

[Tree Pig]

Why not a clove hitch with two half hitches to finish it off?
That's from Tree climbers companion page 75

Ya know when I read the post were he said running from a block for some reason I was assuming he was talking about piecing out the stump and rigging the block off same stump, hence the reason I said bowline with half hitch.

But if your talking about just tying off and lowering average size pieces from a block secured from crotch above (or whatever you have) then thats different.
In that case if I was butt hitching yeah prolly use clove and half hitch. Tip tying may be a running bowline. Sometimes using a properly rated sling is much easier and faster.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Bowlines, Cloves, Timbers etc. (even backed up ones) should most properly pull perpendicular to the load (to be inline / not leveraged to themselves as they lock on the load). Alternatively, to pull along the length/inline to load (like when something hangs from one end, not balanced in the middle) we should precede with marl or half hitch to correct the mechanics (of not pulling perpendicular to load with one of the lacings listed), and as 2nd/ fail safe grab on said load. i'll try to dawg each grab at swell, branching or even cut small humboldt to bed line in, and lock against hang of own weight.

On regular branchings, i prefer sling/krab/to rope eye (even if a temporary eye of DBY).

 

[bonker81]

a killick hitch (a timber hitch with a half hitch added) great rigging hitch, very easy to make and break

 

[tree MDS]

Bowlines, Cloves, Timbers etc. (even backed up ones) should most properly pull perpendicular to the load (to be inline / not leveraged to themselves as they lock on the load). Alternatively, to pull along the length/inline to load (like when something hangs from one end, not balanced in the middle) we should precede with marl or half hitch to correct the mechanics (of not pulling perpendicular to load with one of the lacings listed), and as 2nd/ fail safe grab on said load. i'll try to dawg each grab at swell, branching or even cut small humboldt to bed line in, and lock against hang of own weight.

On regular branchings, i prefer sling/krab/to rope eye (even if a temporary eye of DBY).

What??

Alright...I'm busting it out

 

[ozzy42]

clove hitch with a 1/2 hitch added if there is possibility of the rope slipping off the end of the pc,otherwise running bowline for the other stuff.

 

[D Mc]

What kind of knots work best for tying off a chunk to be lowered using a block? What works best for speed, security and ease of untieing? I'm looking for some new (possibly better) ideas.

Pictures would be great.

For speed and security, you are going to be hard pressed to beat the old standbys of a running bowline or timber hitch backed up with a half hitch for chunks. The timber hitch has fallen out of favor but like all knots, if applied properly in the right situation will perform as required.

If you are just lowering moderate sized limbs that have forks or crotches that would prevent the lowering line from slipping off, a simple running bowline will suffice and will be faster to undo than adding the extra half hitch. The secret of ensuring that the bowline unties easily is in the setting of the knot.

The clove hitch and its cousin, the constrictor, are good knots but not for this usage (IMO). They are better used as in-line hitches, such as tying on a water bottle or some such.

For knot information you are not going to find a better or more informed site than the Spyder's.

Dave

 

[Tree Pig]

For speed and security, you are going to be hard pressed to beat the old standbys of a running bowline or timber hitch backed up with a half hitch for chunks. The timber hitch has fallen out of favor but like all knots, if applied properly in the right situation will perform as required.

If you are just lowering moderate sized limbs that have forks or crotches that would prevent the lowering line from slipping off, a simple running bowline will suffice and will be faster to undo than adding the extra half hitch. The secret of ensuring that the bowline unties easily is in the setting of the knot.

The clove hitch and its cousin, the constrictor, are good knots but not for this usage (IMO). They are better used as in-line hitches, such as tying on a water bottle or some such.

For knot information you are not going to find a better or more informed site than the Spyder's.

Dave

butt hitching with the clove is nice because it can be slipped off the butt easy making untying very fast.

 

[D Mc]

butt hitching with the clove is nice because it can be slipped off the butt easy making untying very fast.

You will get no argument from me on this point. The problem with the clove hitch is that it is a rolling hitch by itself dependent on the half hitch to keep it from rolling. This apparently confuses many people for it is one of the most common hitches to have fail.

Both the running bowline and the timber hitch, when set in the proper direction, lock without rolling.

Dave

 

[bonker81]

For speed and security, you are going to be hard pressed to beat the old standbys of a running bowline or timber hitch backed up with a half hitch for chunks.

The timber hitch with the half hitch is called a killick hitch. It is a wonderful hitch that as you stated has been forgotten. It provides excellent control and can be used in all manner of situations...as long as the load on the line stays parallel to the line. This hitch works very well on things like lumber and pipe also.

 

[Tree Pig]

You will get no argument from me on this point. The problem with the clove hitch is that it is a rolling hitch by itself dependent on the half hitch to keep it from rolling. This apparently confuses many people for it is one of the most common hitches to have fail.

Both the running bowline and the timber hitch, when set in the proper direction, lock without rolling.

Dave

yep but on heavy stuff when the bowline locks it really locks. Dont get me wrong I use more then anything else most likely but whoever quoted the bowline as easy to untie was full of crap (at least when its placed under a good load.)

 

[Metals406]

Not a tree service guy or climber, but I have used the timber hitch backed up with the half hitch.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

(In Metals46 diagram)Notice how in the first 2 shots, the line pulls perpendicular to log in Timber Hitch, but in the 3rd shot line pulls inline/ pairallell to log in Killick, this is all correct; and what i mean by preceding with marl or Half. When someone says backed up, i think of backed up, like backing up a Clove with an Overhand or some other tuck > After the 'Bitter' Point/End. Notice too in the formation of a better Timber/Killick, After the eye, the line serves over, then under the tensioned lien to trap. This, places the trap/ nip where it will get more positive clamping pressure to secure. The rest of the Turns around the line should continue to just past half way, and all ways trap into the spar at decisively convex locations.


Slipped Constrictor, or almost a Clove, and stop 1 step before and trap as Constrictor/ or Same Slipped (kinda like GroundLine with last step/tuck reversed) are all very fair friends, but are best if preceded by a correcting Marl or Half Hitch if inline pull on spar/log along it's length, rather than across it's short axis (and balanced if hanging).

Not all lacings best in all lines, you wouldn't put a bowline in mono etc.

 

[outofmytree]

I know the question was which "knot" do you use to secure lowering loads but just to add another option, we use steel screwgate krabs for all lowering. It's my preference for speed of attaching or detaching, ease of inspection prior to cutting and as a nice bonus the krab makes a good weight for throwing the line.

 

[Saw Dust Smoken]

bowline

Twice around branch(smooth barked limbs) and tuck your tail into one of your bowline loops. I never use a half hitch on large logs. Twice the half hitch cut right through rope on heavy log lowering. Bowline easier to undo then all the timber knot loops under rope.

 

[md_tree_dood]

i like a half hitch and a running bowline. I can't see how you could tie a clove hitch faster than a running bowline. I only use clove hitches to take multiple branches or to drop out tops so I can piece them out when I can't reach with the bucket

 

[tree md]

I use a running bowline probably 98% of the time but when I do block a chunk that I'm worried might slip I use a clove hitch with a half hitch.

I've never lost one yet (knock on wood).