Kwanzan Cherry - Is it dying?

[Jason_MI]

We have a 7 year old Kwanzan flowering cherry tree that has been really struggling this year. We live in SE Michigan, and the tree receives lots of sunlight in its location. We're always very good about adding an annual fertilizer/pesticide to keep away the Japanese Beetles and other pests.

This year, we noticed that the tree seemed a bit more bare than in the past. After some inspection, we noticed that our lawn service had been damaging the trunk with a weed wacker, and there was also a spot higher up on the trunk that was split open. We put a wrap around the bottom and added vaseline where the trunk was damaged.

A week or so later, we noticed that there was a small web up in the tree. We realized that they were gypsy moths, and sprayed the tree to eliminate the nest/egg/larva. The nest was destroyed, but we continued to notice yellowing leaves a couple weeks later and gave it another spray. There are no signs of gypsy moths or other pests, but the tree continues to lose leaves.

Is the tree dying from the damage, pests, and/or pesticide? Is there anything else that we can do to help it recover? I've attached some photos below to give an idea of what the tree/leaves look like. Let me know if you need more photos or information. We planted this tree when our son was born, so it has special meaning to us. Any help would be deeply appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason

 

[Raintree]

A few issues going on here. First lets address the planting of your cherry.
Expose the root collar, digging most likely is required & post up a pic that should look like this...

 

[Jason_MI]

Raintree,

Thanks for the quick reply! Just to be clear, how far down and around should I be digging? Any suggestion on how to keep from damaging roots when digging?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[Oldman47]

What we want to see is how deep the tree is planted. If it is planted too deep you will not be refilling the part you remove. Instead you will fill that with mulch to allow the tree to breathe properly. As long as you expose the first few roots you are plenty deep enough to take the picture.

 

[Jason_MI]

I didn't dig all the way around (yet), but I dug down to the first signs of large, thick roots. They seem to be approx. 5 inches under the top of the surface. Should I continue digging all the way around and/or further out? Or does this give you the info that you need? Photos attached also show some of the damage to the bark.

 

[Raintree]

Good job, yes continue to expose the root collar around the trunk. Then with a stiff brush clean it up & lets see if any girdling roots can be found. She's not overly deep, a good sign.

 

[Jason_MI]

Thanks, Raintree! Is this perpendicular root the sort of thing we were trying to find? It isn't completely wrapped around, but it definitely seems to be hugging/choking the trunk. Should I continue digging, or is this what we were trying to find? It's getting a bit trickier to dig with a hand shovel without doing damage.

 

[ropensaddle]

Good job, yes continue to expose the root collar around the trunk. Then with a stiff brush clean it up & lets see if any girdling roots can be found. She's not overly deep, a good sign.

Looks deep to me

 

[ropensaddle]

No deeper digging needed you have exposed the root flare. That flared area should have been at grade when planted ! Prune the root but sterilize the loppers or hand saw first with bleach and cut the root just outside the ball area don't cut too deep!

 

[Jason_MI]

Thanks to everybody for your feedback! I really appreciate all of the help in getting this tree back to health.

What is the consensus on the depth issue? Do these newer photos make the problem more clear? Is there anything that we can do to correct the depth at this point? How serious of a problem is this? For what it's worth, I've attached a photo of the tree when it was originally planted. I was pretty careful about following the instructions, but seems I may have done something wrong.

When it comes to pruning the root, I want to be sure that I'm cutting it at the right spot. I'm assuming that I should cut it in the two spots circled in red? Do I need to add anything to the root where I cut to help it heal?

Once I'm done, just fill back in the dirt....and then? Any next steps?

Raintree mentioned a few issues. What other issues should I explore?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[ropensaddle]

Rain tree will chime in at this point wait on pruning until frost but there is a likelyhood of more circling roots deeper and if so it should be done with an airspade. It might be worth it to have a ca with an air spade correct any root issues and at that same time he could remove or feather back the soil to proper depth. I'm still studying but container grown plants almost always have circling roots unless properly trimmed at planting time!

 

[ropensaddle]

Oh and no dirt back in there that area needs to breath and dry first which is why it is supposed to be at grade with the flare showing! I have seen worse but imo its too deep!

 

[Oldman47]

I think you may have been about 2 inches too deep at the beginning. The root you pinpointed as not the best is definitely not the best but it is not choking off fluid flow to the rest of the tree. I think I would be tempted to leave it. If it were mine, I would try refilling the hole with dirt except the last 2 inches. For those 2 inches, refill with loose wood chip mulch or something similar. If your lawn service can't avoid damaging your tree, you can't afford to keep using them. Yes, I know that sounds harsh but it is reality.

 

[Raintree]

You have done well in exposing the root collar, to finish up with this project. -
a) Feather back the edge of your well about 6-8", this will help prevent re-sedimentation.
b) Sever the girdling root close to the stump & at well edge. (hammer & sharp chisel is what I use)
Mechanical injury as seen just above the old soil line & on the lower branches can be reduced with a good organic mulch bed. Be generous & bring the bed out to the drip edge of your cherry. http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/resources/ProperMulching.pdf
In your first set of pics I noticed interveinal chlorosis, nutrient deficiency is suspect. A soil sample to a lab is best at this point. Soil fertility & PH adjustments to follow lab results.
The yellowing of some of the leaves is most likely due to hot dry conditions & trunk wounding, not biotic. Maintain adequate soil moisture.
As for gypsy moths, they don't nest, possible tent caterpillars.
You are looking good, NO weed control/killer on lawn near any of your trees.

 

[Jason_MI]

Thanks again for all of your excellent feedback. Based on all of your responses, I decided to call a local certified CA. They're coming out tomorrow (Monday) for a free consultation. I want to explore having them sever the girdling root, checking for others that may not be exposed, sampling the soil, and/or feathering the soil to address the depth issue. Given my limited knowledge and the fragile state of the tree, I thought it might be best to have an expert (like many of you) do the actual work on correcting the problem. Hopefully, the cost won't be too prohibitive. I'll continue to keep you updated. Many thanks!

Jason

 

[ropensaddle]

Thanks again for all of your excellent feedback. Based on all of your responses, I decided to call a local certified CA. They're coming out tomorrow (Monday) for a free consultation. I want to explore having them sever the girdling root, checking for others that may not be exposed, sampling the soil, and/or feathering the soil to address the depth issue. Given my limited knowledge and the fragile state of the tree, I thought it might be best to have an expert (like many of you) do the actual work on correcting the problem. Hopefully, the cost won't be too prohibitive. I'll continue to keep you updated. Many thanks!

Jason

Keep us posted, not sure of your financials but it should not be too large of hit. Tell him you will do anything he feels you capable of! At least you took action before it got bad!

 

[Jason_MI]

Just wanted to post a quick update. The certified CA came out today, and said that much of the damage was caused by our crazy weather the past year or so in Michigan. We've had some bitter winters with late frosts, and it's been very dry and hot lately. Apparently, this has led to similar problems in other cherry trees in the area. He suggested that I trim off the one root, as it will likely end up girdling in time. He said that it was a bit touch too deep, but the tree seemed to be growing reasonably well in spite of it. The damaged bark seems to have been caused by a combination of frost, trimmed branches and mower damage. All seem to be healing correctly. We'll need to have a talk with our lawn service, and have already added a wrap to the bottom for added protection! There was no fee for the consult, and he didn't suggest anything further. Does this all sound like a reasonable explanation for what you see, or should I get a second opinion?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[Raintree]

Thinking your guy was the second opinion. Not a fan of wraps this time of the year. Mulching do not forget, soil test & amendments first. Good luck!