Lakeside, clean out your PM box please. 066 questions inside....

[Freakingstang]

Andy, you Pm box is full. I needed a quick answer for tomorrow, so here is the Pm for the world to see, lol.


Hey Andy, sorry to bug you, but I need some quick answers, lol.

I picked up a red light special 066. It had a burnt cyl and piston. Everything else is in great shape, except the case there the serial number is. There is a chunk missing and I can only read the last 6 digits of the serial number....so I don't know what to do about this......



It originally had a metal type base gasket in it when I tore it down.

While at my stihl dealer (amish, no computer parts lookup) They gave me a laminated gasket.

The stock gasket (metal) was around .015-.018 thick

The new one I have is exactly 1mm thick (.038). So, I made a thinner gasket out of gasket material. I have the squish about .022 give or take a thou. Did they make a couple differant gaskets that you know of?

While running it tonight in some wood to test it out, one of the cylinder bolts backout. I noticed this when I shut it down to refuel. Fueled it up, and fired it back up. It idled normal for a few seconds and then instantly when to a very high idle. i shut it down as I thought it was a air leak of some sort and didn't want to ruin a brand new piston and cylinder.

Do they normally replace bolts when a cyl is changed? can i put some type of locktite on the bolts to keep them in place? The bolts looked ok, and had the little ribs under the head of the bolts. I torqued them down pretty tight with a T handle wrench. Same method I have used on all my huskies and never had a problem. None of the other bolts were loose, just the one at the back of the cylinder on the clutch side. I would normally question my tightening abilities, but I know I did not forget to tighten one down, as I do them about 3 times to make sure they are tight.

Any thoughts? I needed to get this together tonight, so I could run it tomorrow. I have to take my 2 066's down to a big tree that came down at my buddies. We had bad storms and he said the trunk is still standing about 15-20'. The part on the ground measures 58" in diameter!!!!! Yes, I only have a 36" bar, but will have to make it work. Oh yeah, did I mention it is a white Oak? I'll be sawing them into 6 and 8 foot sections. Guess now is the time to finally buy that chainsaw mill I have wanted!

Sorry for the book, but thanks in advance.

-Steve

 

[Lakeside53]

Sorry, been out drinking at a wedding (not mine), so the value of this content may vary..


If paper, the gasket should be .5mm. The 1mm gasket is for third world fuels of very low octane. It's no longer available in the USA...

The metal gasket is the right choice as it avoids problems with gasket settling.

Use a torque wrench. If your cylinder has M6 bolts, take them down to about 11.5 ft lbs - more then you can get easily with a T handle.. if it has M5 bolts, about 9 ft lbs will do.

No, you do not need to replace the cylinder bolts, and you do not need to use loctite.

I need to sleep (it off)...

Andy

 

[oldsaw]

Gee Andy, hope you didn't drive "the porcelain bus".

Did that make you feel any better. Hey, it's morning now...

Hey ANDY, HOWZE YER HEAD FEELING THIS MORNING!!!!!

:biggrinbounce2:

Mark

 

[Lakeside53]

Gee Andy, hope you didn't drive "the porcelain bus".

Did that make you feel any better. Hey, it's morning now...

Hey ANDY, HOWZE YER HEAD FEELING THIS MORNING!!!!!

:biggrinbounce2:

Mark

Grumble, mutter.... where's my coffee. Hmmm, wife seems bit cool...... what did I do...??? Oh well, it's Sunday, so

 

[Lakeside53]

Hey, Freakin...

So what happened with the saw?

 

[Freakingstang]

Hey, Freakin...

So what happened with the saw?

Well.....

See my 066 Oak thread...


I tore it back apart that night. I found some thicker gasket material (1/32)" it was the same thickness as the two 1/64 gaskets I originally used. I didn't find a metal gasket at the dealer earlier that day, and I had done a little porting to it, so I didn't want to run the thick gasket and totally kill the compression with the raised exhaust, that was the whole purpose of making the thinner gaskets to begin with.

I found some cylinder bolts that were in newer, better condition. They were 5mm, BTW. I used them and a tad bit of medium threadlocker (just a drop, I wanted to be able to take them out) because I did not have a T-27 socket long enough to get my torque wrench on, and snugged them pretty darn tight with the T handle (longer than normal for a little more leverage). (T-27 long socket is on order, also. lol

This thing screams, and the rings aren't even seated yet, and it was set a little on the fat side. After next weekend or so, it should be broke in a little more and maybe leaned out a little. BTW, What is the max recommended RPM for the older aluminum flywheel 066's? I put a 24" bar on it and should have had the 3 footer on it instead. It seems to have nearly twice the power and torque of my newer 066. I put the shorter bar on it to be a little easy on it during the initial break-in and didn't want a ton of heat with the longer bar, but after burning 4 1/2 tanks through it, it looks good to go.

I checked the bolts periodically throughout the day, and everything was ok. Thanks for the advice, sorry I couldn't follow them 100%, but I did what I had to do to make it work without trying to be a hack about it. lol

-Steve

 

[Lakeside53]

The max rpm is listed as 13k on all versions. The Polymer flywheel just allows for a faster acceleration. I run mine REAL fat when I'm milling, like 11-11.5k, and 13k when not. All measured with bar and chain.

How high have you taken yours?

BTW, you should try to put a crushable steel gasket in... the paper pounds out and the screws get loose. Yours wont due to the loctite, but it may develop air leaks as the cylinder gets loose. One problem with loctite (even with the "blue") on the screws as it's hard to use a torque wrench to check the values in the future as the loctite is binding.

 

[Freakingstang]

The max rpm is listed as 13k on all versions. The Polymer flywheel just allows for a faster acceleration. I run mine REAL fat when I'm milling, like 11-11.5k, and 13k when not. All measured with bar and chain.

How high have you taken yours?

BTW, you should try to put a crushable steel gasket in... the paper pounds out and the screws get loose. Yours wont due to the loctite, but it may develop air leaks as the cylinder gets loose. One problem with loctite (even with the "blue") on the screws as it's hard to use a torque wrench to check the values in the future as the loctite is binding.

I always check RPM with B/C.

13.5 and it four strokes horribly (that is good in this case...) I think it will sing along pretty at about 14.5K, but don't want to beat the poop out of the crank, case, and bearings...so I may leave it there for now.

Got a bottom tap, just for that loctite occasion...Been there, done that. Loctite also makes a "remover" that is great for blind holes, squirt it in, let it sit and then clean out with air, followed by the tap. We use it at work, I'll have to see what the product # is.

The gasket material I used 2nd go round, was more of a laminated type than the regular paper type. I thought about that too, and I think that might have been part of the problem with the first paper gaskets i used. Besides, most of the Husky's I've messed with use a laminated gasket too. So, It might be alright, But I am keeping a strict eye on it.

 

[Lakeside53]

Good info on the Loctite removal, but I was coming at this from a different angle. I mean that it's hard to check the torque values with your current assembly as the loctite binds the screws even if the cylinder is looser. Guys that use red loctite (permanent) get in big trouble as you can't re-torque them at all!

Sound like it's running great though...

 

[Freakingstang]

ahh, I gotcha. I picked up a metal gasket today at a dealer close to work. Do you know if they changed the gasket thickness of the metal gaskets over the years? The old one measured about .022 thick (compressed of coarse), but the new one measures in the 40 thou range. I don't see it compressing that much though.......


-Steve

 

[Lakeside53]

I've only ever seen one thrckness of metal gasket on all the stihl saws. The paper was rated at 0.5mm (and the "low compression" 1mm version). The correct metal version is listed at 0.5mm and that's close to what I just measured one at.
I don't think the metal compresses at all! The "crush" area flattens out, but the sheet material won't change.


hmmm... 40 thou... uh.... sounds like they gave you a 1mm version... What gas are your Armish dealers running? you need the 0.5mm... 1122 029 2301

 

[Dan Forsh]

Andy,

Just following on the title of this thread, your inbox is full again, but thanks, I got the manual no problem.

Cheers,

Dan

 

[Lakeside53]

grrrrr... it sucks being popular. Killing email now...

 

[Dan Forsh]

Who said you were popular, I was trying to post hate mail.....

 

[Freakingstang]

Who said you were popular, I was trying to post hate mail.....

Seriously, who could have a problem with Andy? Oh wait, I know of a few on here. lol

-Steve

 

[CaseyForrest]

I know of at least one!

 

[Lakeside53]

Who said you were popular, I was trying to post hate mail.....