lanyard help

[heartland]

Guys,

Just got in from a day of work and have a problem. My 2 in 1 lanyard uses 3strand (see pic). I'm finding it really difficult to adjust the prussik lately. Constantly fighting the prussik is wearing me out. Seems to tighten up and just does not want to loosen when I need it to.

Wondering if it is happening because the rope is dirty? Should I wash it? Is it time to switch out my prussik?

Help!

 

[treeclimber165]

I'm not particularly fond of that Tenex for a prussik, but it works I guess. Done any sappy pine removals lately? Pine sap will gum up every hitch but usually wears off with use.
Have you removed the prussik and retied it in the opposite direction so the wear is on the opposite side?

 

[Stumper]

I think Dan has nailed it! The real problem is the Prussik. It never bothered me when I was using a Buckstrap-I took 2 handed adjustment for granted. When I switched to more advanced/versitile lanyard arrangements I switched to a Swabisch briefly and then moved on to the V.T. ( The Swabisch is a better prussik but it still tends to get tighter and tighter.) The VT holds great but releases smooth as butter. depemnding on your ropes and body weight a Distel might also work well.

 

[hillbilly]

Hi Heartland,
as the boys already said, the prusik might be the problem.
If you switch to a distel, schwabisch or V.T. they will most
likely only hold in one direction. If you still want the 2-1 effect
you could try this setup (see attached image).
It is an illustration of the DEDA lanyard, Double Ended Double Adjusted, as described by Tom Dunlap. You can see the description in this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6661&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

 

[Kevin]

I wasn't long switching from the prusik to the distel and adding a micro pulley and swivel snap.
Works nice.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i have the same advice, i would work that prusik off the end, and work the same loop back on in a 2 over 3 formation distel for double ended (snaps on each end) lanyard. If there is any slack at all, and not huge snaps there is a fair chance of that.

If it only had 1 snap, and only 1 end would be used; it would be easier to wriggle distel on open end and i would make a 3/1; the single ring making a fair one way knot tender.

Though, even a nice distel might still hang some if lanyard is coated in pine sap etc.!

Still remeber me telling someone to use a prussik for that and Tom correcting me and saying distel, as it became my climbing knot for years now too! Thanx Tom! That DEDA of his has always looked sharp too!

 

[heartland]

Originally posted by treeclimber165
I'm not particularly fond of that Tenex for a prussik, but it works I guess. Done any sappy pine removals lately? Pine sap will gum up every hitch but usually wears off with use.
Have you removed the prussik and retied it in the opposite direction so the wear is on the opposite side?

Hmmmm.... yes on the sappy pine. Not a removal, but a prune job. Also worked on a Bodark (sp?) yesterday which was dropping milk all over me and my gear (yuk). But the prussik was giving me grief before I started the Bodark so I'm assuming that the pine I worked in last week didn't help.

Wow, you guys have given a lot of ideas here. I checked the link by Tom Dunlap on the DEDA lanyard: too advanced for me right now. I am willing to consider another hitch though.

I don't know much about the distel, schwabisch or V.T.... guess it's time todo some research on these....

I'd like to find another hitch to use on my 2 in 1. If I could find one that would allow 1 hand adjustment, it would be great.

 

[lync]

I use a VT on my single ended lanyard (16 strand 1/2 inch safety blue). The day after a pine removal the lanyard is hard to pull thru the friction hitch. After the sap dries out the lanyard goes back to normal. You might just have to wait it out and use it, or wash ,both prussic and lanyard, in warm soapy water.

Corey

 

[TREETX]

Thanks, made a lanyard with a distel and micro pulley.

I usually just climb with a 120' line and a 20'. The more tools in the box the better!

Bodark - Bois d'arc Maclura pomifera

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i find on a single snap end lanyard with a 3/1 distel; that i can usually dispense with the knot tender/ pulley. It gives fair self tending properties with less gear. i make mine in 3 strand, preffering NE Safety Blue HyVee.

i think 3/2 distel on 2 snap end lanyards. Placing a knot tender on a 2 way adjustable lanyard, can push the knot the wrong way (open) just like loading the wrong side of a cam device. That is why one hand adjustable lanyards are usually one way.

That is one thing i see in Tom's DETA, it overcomes this, as each direction has it's own prusik/tender combo (as i understand it) so each can be a one way for the chosen direction. Tom's really backed me off in his posts for cams on most things as far as opening, rope damage, and moving under loadwhen you want; though i still like my small discreet microscender/twisted clevis combo on my lanyard and can usually move it loaded by shifting my weight and thumbing the cam.

i made a lanyard for a fella that had a distel on each D-ring (3/1self tending?)with a lanyard that stretched across the back with a support ring (throwline thru the back support) in the rear center of the belt so that loops of slack could droop to his inside knee. i thought it was going to be the answer, he didn't like it and we eventually shortened it and made it 'normal'. Always wondered if anyone would have had safety violations with a setup. i used the throwline and no metal on the support loop as to have nothing hard lined up on the tail bone in case of impact to that area. i punched a hole thru the backpad as to not violate the strength of the webbing. i was talking to someone about making him one.

If there is a lot of sap on the friction hitch itself, you might reposition the contact area or replace the friction hitch. Cams do work sappy ropes better than friction hitches i think. If you are going to wash warm water during soaping helps (theoretically thinner water to get under stuff to free it, and then rinse cool with thicker water to push stuff away) especially with pine sap. By hand i like Dawn type soft soaps, or citrtus based. Friction hitches should be loosened or removed to facilitate their cleaning. i try not to use best/ newest lines etc. with pine. Also cut and move it before sap runs, use pulleys on crotching etc., especially on warmer days.

edit: guess i should have said that 3/1 distel self tends when pulling away from you, bending line, with regular tender you can pull straight back towards you.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Is using a Distel and a micro pulley really that much better than a Gibbs or equivalent cammed unit? I've gotten so used to using the Gibbs. If it is that beneficial I'm up for trying it.

 

[treeclimber165]

Originally posted by rich hoffman
Is using a Distel and a micro pulley really that much better than a Gibbs or equivalent cammed unit? I've gotten so used to using the Gibbs. If it is that beneficial I'm up for trying it.

The main benefits are weight savings and cost. You don't even need the tender pulley if you route your lanyard rope through the carabiner so the carabiner acts as your tender. I bought a Gibbs, tried it once and got rid of it. Even the alum. one was more weight than I was willing to carry for not much advantage. I also thought it was way too much effort to adjust the lanyard for over $60.
The other issue I had was that one side of my lanyard was now locked to my D ring and couldn't be removed without pliers (see Oxman's thread on the twisted clevis). A large amount of flexibility was now tossed out the window when using the Gibbs. With biners I can move or swap ends easily.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by treeclimber165
The main benefits are weight savings and cost. You don't even need the tender pulley if you route your lanyard rope through the carabiner so the carabiner acts as your tender. I bought a Gibbs, tried it once and got rid of it. Even the alum. one was more weight than I was willing to carry for not much advantage. I also thought it was way too much effort to adjust the lanyard for over $60.

Good point, the other advantage the Distel setup has is that you can adjust it with your weight on it.


Having to take your weight off of the Gibbs is a pain in the a$$. ( guess I am answering my own question here ).