Large White Oak split down center

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Ok first thing is NOWHERE in your post does it say you're a climber or have any experience. Why come in here and ask advice without pics and then shoot your mouth off at the response you get. I think you pretty much just ruined and chance of getting help from anyone. You asked if a climber had experience with this situation that advice would be appreciated that makes you sound inexperienced. Good luck

Who is the bully now??
Jeff :msp_biggrin:

I'll be back,,,,,
 
I have taken down similar trees by climbing

I would set up a high cable between two nearby trees if possible at right angles to the split to attach a bailout line to. Then wrap the split, cut the big limb with a jump cut to keep bending force on the trunk at a minimum. The split will most likely snap shut when the limb hops off. Re do the wraps after the limb is off, they will have slacked off. When you get to the top use a jump cut to top it, again to keep sideways forces from pushing on the stem as a normal notch would do. Use vertical zip line to keep chunks near the trunk as they are dropped. Don't rope chunks down. Make all cuts at right angle to split. Film everything from multiple cameras. Lotsa luck.

When you get down to the split either take small chunks or leave bindings in place and drop the whole split at one chunk. If you drop the whole split, write off the stuff you used for binding!
 
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I am not trying to be a ####ing did I here but you are familiar with round turns right , start about a foot above the crack , and put a #### load of round turns where the crack is , use100 ft or rope if need be , I say start from the top to use your body weight to set the turns tight , space em 6" if need be

I agree,, get up there and piece it out.
Jeff
 
As a new climber I have nothing to offer other than good luck and hope I don't see you in the accident section of the next TCIA magazine.

2 grand is nowhere near enough to get me to climb above that split. Any way you could set a crane up on his road and have the crane lift you in and use that as your TIP so if things go bad you still have a secure tie in?

Yeah what about a crane? Any access? 2 grand climbing that isnt worth an accident either. If you read the monthly TCIA magazines like 7.3 rocket is talking about, tree failures are becoming a lot more common. Be safe.
 
Think outside the box

I concur on a pic of this road. Having designed logging roads for 20 yrs, including several over 30% grade on sidehills over 100%, I have never seen one fail when a log landed on it.

As for taking down the tree. Dynamite. Climb up as high as you feel safe, tape a stick (or half stick depending on size) to the stem, come down. Kaboom.

If you can climb high enough, you will blow the top out and then just have the stem to fall without damaging the surrounding vegetation.

http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfpubs/pdf08672325/pdf08672325dpi72.pdf

Explosive tree felling has a place
http://www.bcforestsafe.org/files/Training/DangerousTreeBlastingForFallersOverview.pdf
 
Agreed. No way in hell i'd tackle that job for 2k. I think he took that job and now realizes he's in way over his head.
 
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Be nice to see more pics, but I would say that a 120' tree where the next closest tree is 70' away (unless I'm confused by his description of the site) is going to have enough momentum that it will not hang up. Make a big mess though.
 
I have a 120' tall white oak about 40" diameter at base. Starting below the first large limb about 50' up a vertical crack runs up the center of the main trunk of the tree for 10' going well past the large limb. The crack is about 6" wide and you can see completely through to the other side. The crack tapers at both ends but looks likely to grow at each end. If a tree climber has experience with removing a tree like this advice is appreciated. Tree must come down in chunks. Bucket truck is not an option. Climbing nearby trees is not an option. My sense is to first lighten the load/ remove the previously mentioned large limb that is adjacent to the crack and which obviously caused the crack. I am really not sure about cutting the trunk above and below the split. We are dealing with a big oak here. Thanks in advance.

The answer to your simple question: Hire a pro that knows what he is doing to do it, watch him and take note, get him his smokes and a cold Pepsi, keep that brush clear and shut your mouth.

Come here a obvious novice and be a douche to those who have epic skills, will not work in your favor, a little courtesy goes a long way.

Big oak, yeah.......... OK
 
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I don't know how many times I look at a tree, decide on a method, climb the tree and based on different things I see and feel change my whole strategy for removal. How much more so from one little picture.
If the trees been like that for a while it's not likely to buckle from your weight when you climb it. But as soon as you start cutting on it removing limbs and cutting through stressed wood things start changing. I'm just saying what ever you do and decide on may have to be changed to plan B or C as conditions change in the tree.
Binding it, and supporting it if needed are just the basics. Trees going to decide what to do from then forward. If you had to climb it as you say and you decide to do it. I would climb it with a good pole saw and start wittering a way at it trying not to get it to off balanced. Climb high and make small cuts. Make a nest below to catch the chunks so they don't roll a way.
Good chance the trunk is split and still under tension, Having it well strapped helps but sometimes it'll pinch your saw.
Any time you climb above a defect your taking a chance. I would have to be there and make that judgement my self based on many variables. Giving advice on climbing a potentially deadly tree over the internet is insane. I mean not for us, but for who ever is takeing it. It could go with out a hitch, probably will, but it could easyly go a way not even thought of yet. I might do it, but not for 1500.00
 
Sounds like one of them jobs where the first two questions are - "how much is my life worth" and "what could possibly go wrong". The Aussies use big ratchet straps on Mountain Ash because they split down the stem when chogging down, I've had finger thick birch limbs hold my weight and thigh thick oak limbs break on me, each tree is different even within the same species. If the tree can be reinforced mechanically to stop the split opening then ok, but there's always the bits you can't see, the crack could easily go another 10' in both directions, visual assessment is essential for anything more than vague direction. I haven't met a road yet that's worth more than me or that can't be protected.

Good luck mate.
 
I hate to see red names for new guys , I turned him neutral and within 20 seconds he was red again , I would say he may not come back. ...........
 

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