Last question on my 044 build...hopefully

[Indy Red]

Hi all,
So bearings and crank installed and centred, the crank spun lovely, installed both seals and noticed quite an increase in tension on the crank (hope that's meant to be like that?) Only thing that has me concerned is that i thought the flywheel bearing was meant to be flush to the case but mine finished slightly proud, is that correct?

Crank clearance to outer bearing race is 0.25mm but I keep thinking that after it warms up it could start rubbing, I went through all my pictures but cannot find one of the bearing before the build, This is my first rebuild so sadly I don't have past experience to go on.

 

[lone wolf]

Hi all,
So bearings and crank installed and centred, the crank spun lovely, installed both seals and noticed quite an increase in tension on the crank (hope that's meant to be like that?) Only thing that has me concerned is that i thought the flywheel bearing was meant to be flush to the case but mine finished slightly proud, is that correct?

Crank clearance to outer bearing race is 0.25mm but I keep thinking that after it warms up it could start rubbing, I went through all my pictures but cannot find one of the bearing before the build, This is my first rebuild so sadly I don't have past experience to go on.

If it is off center in the cases, mildly tap the crank snout end on the side to correct this with a brass or lead hammer only.

 

[Indy Red]

If it is off center in the cases, mildly tap the crank snout end on the side to correct this with a brass or lead hammer only.

It's 0.35mm on each sides, after tapping with a brass hammer, have put the clutch on and can turn it over with one finger, was worried after heat expansion it will rub the outer race, or is it meant to be that tight?

 

[lone wolf]

It's 0.35mm on each sides, after tapping with a brass hammer, have put the clutch on and can turn it over with one finger, was worried after heat expansion it will rub the outer race, or is it meant to be that tight?

Well, I wasn't there when you installed the bearings. If you tapped it both ways, I would think they are seated all the way in.so you are saying it got more clearance after tapping? If so, try one more time and make sure but don't go crazy.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I'm certainly no genius on these, but it looks like you may have not gotten the bearings seated quite far enough.
They should be really close to flush.

But, I don't see anything expanding enough to make it rub. If it does you have other problems.

The taper of the crank will only let it get so close.

 

[Indy Red]

I'm certainly no genius on these, but it looks like you may have not gotten the bearings seated quite far enough.
They should be really close to flush.

But, I don't see anything expanding enough to make it rub. If it does you have other problems.

The taper of the crank will only let it get so close.

Ah bugger, looks like i will have to split the case again, though I don't want to split it only to find out it will seat no further and is meant to have a lip, was hoping someone has experience on how flush they are meant to be.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Ah bugger, looks like i will have to split the case again, though I don't want to split it only to find out it will seat no further and is meant to have a lip, was hoping someone has experience on how flush they are meant to be.

Hold on. Somebody will show up who knows for sure.

 

[lone wolf]

Hold on. Somebody will show up who knows for sure.

@pioneerguy600

 

[Tobystihl]

I've experienced thus issue on a 261. As Lone Wolf mentioned, give the crank end a good tap with a copper hammer or similar. ( my 261 bearing sat further in after a clunk from a deadblow hammer!)
Good luck!

 

[pioneerguy600]

@pioneerguy600

On the flywheel side the bearing is capable of going in below flush if one wants it to, it will move over by striking the clutch side crank snout with a brass hammer or a block of hardwood against the crank and a blow from a ballpein hammer. The crank throws cannot contact the bearing race at any time as the radius of where the crank meets the crank throw prevents the bearing from getting close enough to the throw to allow contact, center the crank throws in the crankcase and don`t worry about where the bearings are sitting.

 

[lone wolf]

On the flywheel side the bearing is capable of going in below flush if one wants it to, it will move over by striking the clutch side crank snout with a brass hammer or a block of hardwood against the crank and a blow from a ballpein hammer. The crank throws cannot contact the bearing race at any time as the radius of where the crank meets the crank throw prevents the bearing from getting close enough to the throw to allow contact, center the crank throws in the crankcase and don`t worry about where the bearings are sitting.

Very good details.

 

[Mad Professor]

On the flywheel side the bearing is capable of going in below flush if one wants it to, it will move over by striking the clutch side crank snout with a brass hammer or a block of hardwood against the crank and a blow from a ballpein hammer. The crank throws cannot contact the bearing race at any time as the radius of where the crank meets the crank throw prevents the bearing from getting close enough to the throw to allow contact, center the crank throws in the crankcase and don`t worry about where the bearings are sitting.

That's why we love "old" sages like YOU!!

 

[pioneerguy600]

That's why we love "old" sages like YOU!!

 

[Indy Red]

View attachment 1189325

Thanks for the help, stuff like this is why I wanted to help support the forum after joining.

The crank has equal gap both sides so I will leave it and carry on with the build.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks for the help, stuff like this is why I wanted to help support the forum after joining.

The crank has equal gap both sides so I will leave it and carry on with the build.

You are then good to go with the rest of the build, installing new crank seals will cause the crank to turn a bit harder, from the friction the seal lips create. That is normal, you will have a long lasting great saw if all parts used are OEM. the only AM parts I will use on them is a Meteor piston, have two in my own saws and they have stood up to a lot of hours of run time for me. All the rest of my saws are OEM parts and I am very partial to the 044 `s and the service they have given me.

 

[Oletrapper]

View attachment 1189325

Yup! That's old right there now. lmao OT

 

[Indy Red]

You are then good to go with the rest of the build, installing new crank seals will cause the crank to turn a bit harder, from the friction the seal lips create. That is normal, you will have a long lasting great saw if all parts used are OEM. the only AM parts I will use on them is a Meteor piston, have two in my own saws and they have stood up to a lot of hours of run time for me. All the rest of my saws are OEM parts and I am very partial to the 044 `s and the service they have given me.

New Stihl rings arrived today and tested them in the cylinder at various points and the ring gap is .012" or 0.30mm I expected them to be tighter than that but I presume I can run it at .012"

 

[lone wolf]

Yup! That's old right there now. lmao OT

AVATAR material baby!

 

[huskihl]

Even the crank being centered in the case doesn’t mean much as long as it is free. The rod can slide back-and-forth much further than the crank can in the case. The piston will find center

 

[pioneerguy600]

New Stihl rings arrived today and tested them in the cylinder at various points and the ring gap is .012" or 0.30mm I expected them to be tighter than that but I presume I can run it at .012"

.012 is ok, I would like to see .009 but at .012 there are plenty of hours of run time still in them.