Leg Guards? How About These?

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A pg. one post:
" I was looking for something that might do double duty for use with a brush blade AND chainsaw, but am guessing that they would work off of different principles."

........

The stories, pics and all are fine, but nobody has convinced me that chainsaw chaps are going to work any better than thick plastic for slowing down, or deflecting a whirling blade at the end of a big "weed-eater". Even with the handlebar hooked to my harness, the blade sometimes glances off of saplings extremely fast and near enough to the legs to cause another pic to go up here someday. I don't know that such a large diameter blade will get clogged up by fibers, since it happens all the time anyhow w/vegetation and tall grass without stopping. Surely there's someone here that uses that kind of a blade and has appropriate safety eqt. for it?!?
.......

I have hard time imagining how can you cut your own leg with brushcutter/clearing saw, unless your +6' tall and have short tubed saw, and trust me, i've sawn plenty with clearing saw...
 
most of the crew i know that runs the tri blade or circular saw blade brushcutters just wear chainsaw pants. Any chainsaw pant or chap that has at minimum 6 layers (9 is better) will be just fine. The brushcutters have way more control when cutting than a chainsaw, the cutting head is much further away from the legs/chest/face/arms and they tend to deflect sideways to either side of the Operator if they "kick". i have noticed that if your wearing the harness, the machine kicks less than without. (more control)

there are MANY different brands, i have tried LoggerKing and like them alot, (pricy) but i also wear my inexpensive ECHO chaps too. Both are rated for 3500 rpm chain speed, both have 9 layers (the loggerKings are Kevlar however), both clog up and stop a chain as they were designed to. Check some of the sponsors here (Baileys/Sherril/Labonville etc and see what they carry.



Good Luck!
 
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I'm with Blis on this one. I've used a clearing saw a lot over the years, and can't recall any time the blade came close to my body. I have fallen down with the blade whirling, and was certainly concerned, but never did get in a dangerous proximity with it.

Working on a steep, slippery clay bank, along a pond once, and did a slow slide into 15' of water. I managed to keep the powerhead mostly out of the water while thrashing around, and once the slide became faster I did shut it off. Must have looked like all 3 stooges at once. I only tell people this story that I can trust.

I'm 5'7", so perhaps a taller operator could possibly have a problem.
 
allright allright...... i was trying to make a point about wearing chainsaw PPE.

seeing as a few of you have noticed it.......that pic is from a "staged" trauma training course. The injury was simulated by a special FX/makeup crew with cheescake, twinkies, stage blood, and gelatin. The wound was staged to look like a saw user that fell onto his sawbar while still holding the trigger, hence the "cut and sweep" nature of the injury.

Again, sorry to do it, but i was trying to convince the Original Poster that chainsaw PPE is the only acceptable PPE for running a saw/brushcutter, instead of sports gear). ;)


sometimes a little gore (and i aint talking about that hypocrite AL) is needed to impress the need for PROPER safety gear.

slag away at me for fooling some of ya, its all good. :D

No slags from anyone here me thinks, certainly not me as I've been a 'safety nag' for years and have some friends who are very lucky to be alive. The sports gear thing made me cringe, iyiyiyiyi, and the follies have already been pointed out by others.
:cheers: ta working safe and good health to all!

Serge
 
The sports gear thing made me cringe, iyiyiyiyi, and the follies have already been pointed out by others.
:cheers: ta working safe and good health to all!

Serge

Sorry, I didn't mean to scare ya Sprig, but I was looking for answers. So far, I've not found ANYTHING that even remotely states in its advertisement, nor in video clips, or personal experience that shows an effective way to stop a blade on a brush saw.

As for CHAIN saws, I think I'd like to find out more about the 9 layer chaps. I can see WHY these things sometimes work. That's been shown as much as possible in this thread. But much of my work IS on the sides of banks that are hard to get to in the first place. They tend to be slick, sometimes moss covered wet rocks, clay, vines and dead fall to trip over, etc. I'm using a stances condusive to good balance...in my martial system they are called back stances, forward stances, and various pivots that have a broad base. These place my feet/legs dangerously close to the blade on a glancing swing. Falling ONTO it is not usually much of an issue since the weight of my body in that direction drives the blade into the ground to stop it by friction. I have used the machine for long periods of time with lots of grass wrapped around above the saw without it bogging down. So, I'm therefore not as trusting of the CHAINSAW chaps being of much protection like others here have stated. THAT is why I think they would protect in different ways. The catchers guards at least offer a base upon which to attach a better barrier, possibly a metal guard on the shins and ankles to feet tops. This is just this one guys theory. Not trying to be "cheap"! I'm trying to be safe! I think you guys who recommend chainsaw chaps are right on about working with the chainsaws. That is why I've been askiing about the best ones. But although I think they would be far better than blue jeans for a ground saw, I am not convinced they would save me from a bad injury. IMHO I'm going to need two types. Correct me if I'm wrong. But please don't just tell me how scarey you are by someone's comment without having a reason based response.

THANK YOU,

Noah
 
The sports gear thing made me cringe, iyiyiyiyi, and the follies have already been pointed out by others.
:cheers: ta working safe and good health to all!

Serge

Sorry, I didn't mean to scare ya Sprig, but I was looking for answers. So far, I've not found ANYTHING that even remotely states in its advertisement, nor in video clips, or personal experience that shows an effective way to stop a blade on a brush saw.

Guys,
As for CHAIN saws, I think I'd like to find out more about the 9 layer chaps. I can see WHY these things sometimes work. That's been shown as much as possible in this thread. :deadhorse: But much of my work IS on the sides of banks that are hard to get to in the first place. They tend to be slick, sometimes moss covered wet rocks, clay, vines and dead fall to trip over, etc. I'm using a stances condusive to good balance...in my martial system they are called back stances, forward stances, and various pivots that have a broad base. These place my feet/legs dangerously close to the blade on a glancing swing. Falling ONTO it is not usually much of an issue since the weight of my body in that direction drives the blade into the ground to stop it by friction. I have used the machine for long periods of time with lots of grass wrapped around above the saw without it bogging down. So, I'm therefore not as trusting of the CHAINSAW chaps being of much protection like others here have stated. THAT is why I think they would protect in different ways.

The catchers guards at least offer a base upon which to attach a better barrier, possibly a metal guard on the shins and ankles to feet tops. This is just this one guys theory. Not trying to be "cheap"! I'm trying to be safe! I think you guys who recommend chainsaw chaps are right on about working with the chainsaws. That is why I've been askiing about the best ones. But although I think they would be far better than blue jeans for a ground saw, I am not convinced they would save me from a bad injury. IMHO I'm going to need two types. Correct me if I'm wrong. But please don't just tell me how scarey you are by someone's comment without having a reason based response.

THANK YOU,

Noah
 
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if your working on those kind of surfaces, i would wear a pair of Viking chainsw Caulk boots, for their excellent traction.

The reason you have not heard anything about plastic leg guards being used or effective, is because such items are not used in the industry. Therefore neither OSHA or ANSI or WCB (Canada) will have tested such items for use in our industry. The only thing CLOSE to what your proposing, is the 6" metal metatarsal foot guards that are available for chainsaw operators and welders (to prevent molten slag from burning the tops of the feet). The metatarsal guards go on the boots and cover about 2" over the ankle....but even those will DEFLECT a chainsaw bar/chain upwards if it is nicked......

From your last post, it appears that your are actually proposing a new form of leg protection (ie the plastic guards with a chap material built into them). I would suggest you make a set up, and have an independent lab test them. Then refine them based on the results.

There is simply nothing out there like what you are asking about, therefore we cannot answer your questions, because none of us have seen or used such a product.

just saying.:cheers:
 
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hey, its not any more hilly in WVa than it is just across the river here in Ohio.
I never heard of anyone hitting themselves with a brushcutter, and it would seem the industry hasn't either. the first thing that comes to mind is the brushcutter needs adjusted to fit you, handles and harness, you're holding it way too high. I'm 6' and it has never been a concern.
If the motor head is sticking up above your head, you're holding it too high :D

-Ralph :cheers:
 
if your working on those kind of surfaces, i would wear a pair of Viking chainsw Caulk boots, for their excellent traction.

The reason you have not heard anything about plastic leg guards being used or effective, is because such items are not used in the industry. Therefore neither OSHA or ANSI or WCB (Canada) will have tested such items for use in our industry. The only thing CLOSE to what your proposing, is the 6" metal metatarsal foot guards that are available for chainsaw operators and welders (to prevent molten slag from burning the tops of the feet). The metatarsal guards go on the boots and cover about 2" over the ankle....but even those will DEFLECT a chainsaw bar/chain upwards if it is nicked......

From your last post, it appears that your are actually proposing a new form of leg protection (ie the plastic guards with a chap material built into them). I would suggest you make a set up, and have an independent lab test them. Then refine them based on the results.

There is simply nothing out there like what you are asking about, therefore we cannot answer your questions, because none of us have seen or used such a product.

just saying.:cheers:


Hi SRT,

Fair enough. That's what I was wondering; about the first paragraph that is. I guess I come from a background where 'if you can't find it you make it' philosophy. My Dad was always engineering and designing practical stuff around the house, in the field, etc. He was a lot better at it than I am. Oh my goodness, I'm turning into my Dad! For instance, I recently couldn't find
the official Martial arts body armour eqt. for a competition I wanted to participate in. So, I made my own. It took me a whole week of evenings, but it turned out to be better protection than the official standard equiptment. When I showed up and invested a bunch of time and money into my first competition of that kind, my gloves as good as they were were not allowed because they were not "official". The ref loaned me a pair of badly worn gloves, which I protested "you could break a bone under these!" He said, "but they are the "official gloves." In the first round my opponent broke hit my hands with his stick and broke both of my hands (destroyed 3 knuckles). After that I whipped up on him and after he went down did an illegal kick in my nads. It wasn't called. Anyhow, when I returned the gloves, I told him "you know my hands would've been fine if you let me use MYGLOVES! Thanks for the injury."

I guess that's why I am looking for the best safety options. I agree with you totally about the chainsaw chaps.
BTW, I didn't plan to use the leg guards that I asked about for the chain saw. What you said about deflection to a vital area makes sense. As for the other saw, I was just curious about your opinions. I just notice that with my model brush saw, it sometimes comes dangerously close at times for reasons I already explained.

SRT-Tech said, "NOAH, by chance are you related to NYstupgrinder or SafetyNewbie? "

No, never heard of em.
PS: What kind of lizard is that icon? Lizards are cool..............or was that cold blooded? ;)
 
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oiling your chaps.

There has been research done on chainsaw chaps in NZ. They have had problems in the past with injuries and now have put laws in place requiring chaps to be used with chainsaws. Their injury numbers have taken a nosedive throughout the country. There has been studies done on chaps with some interesting results. I can not find the web linkage right now so i will not quote exact figures but i remember some of the basics.

Chaps will not instantly stop the chain on a larger saw instantly however will drastically reduce the severity of the injury.

I noted that there has been discussion that grass does not stop a chainsaw. As I am sure that you know grass will not stop a bullet however kevlar can. This is why you do not see the SWAT team wearing a grass vest, or chainsaw chaps made out of grass.

The most interesting point that I saw in the research is that if you spill more than a half liter of oil/gas on your chaps the things are useless and need to be replaced. They found much less effect from washing than from the hydrocarbons however there was some deterioration from the laundry. So if you have been dumping gas and or oil all over your chaps then you need a new pair as your old ones will not be effective against the saw.
 

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