Legs hurt !

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dantiff2

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I'm playing around with climbing on spurs (tree removal) and the inside of my legs are in alot of pain after only 1 hour in the tree. I have T pads but the spur shank is still digging in. A buddy told me to get high top boots. Can anyone recommend some that arn't 400 $


Dan
 
How much better is it to have the right boots ? I'm using plain old steel toe for now, I'm wondering if its worth the money or if it hurts just as bad with the expensive boots!



Dan
 
Not that this helps you right now, but soon there will be an all-new set of climbers ready for sale. It's an outside-the-box design that it focuses on comfort, comfort, comfort. Some sort of spring-loaded cup that form-fits to the calf muscle, and the whole thing moves WITH the leg, not constrains it. Not sure what the name of the company is but I'll let you guys know when there's any news. Will probably be on the high-end side but perhaps well worth it. Should be very different from anything we've seen before.


I'm playing around with climbing on spurs (tree removal) and the inside of my legs are in alot of pain after only 1 hour in the tree. I have T pads but the spur shank is still digging in. A buddy told me to get high top boots. Can anyone recommend some that arn't 400 $


Dan
 
Make sure you have the straps tight to start with...tight as you can get...they are sure to loosen while climbing...might add some pad to the top pads...

Make sure your top pad/strap come to just below the lower swell of your knee..top of the calf.

and you may find that you are stomping too hard on the gaff in climbing..just need to go hard enough to penetrate...then ease your weight onto the gaff and let it sink in...that is why they are shaped the way they are..so they will continue to dig in as weight is applied as opposed to rolling out of the spar...

Disclaimer...take my advice with a grain of salt...for >I< am an amateur...:greenchainsaw:
 
caddy pads

I work for the local telephone company and went from the standard company "L" pads to velcro. big difference if you spend time on them..during tree work on my own set of spurs and "L" pads upgraded to aluminum caddy pads..took another order to get longer straps and thinking about ordering another set for work. takes about 1/2 hour to get used to the angle and then you will thank everyone and their brother and his uncle for recommending these. At 270 pounds doesn't matter how hard you stab..still a shi*load of weight. I like em.. Good luck.
 
Also you can try wrapping the heal strap around the shank once before you go around your foot that seems to help some.
 
You gotta fiddle with 'em. Adjust them up or down. Pull the buckles one way or the other, so they end up where you feel most comfortable. Mine feel the best when they are above the big part of my calf muscle, but below that tender spot on the inside of my knee. I have Bucky spikes, and cant really comment on any other brands.
 
I have a pair of 16" Hoffmans. I wanna say they were $318 for steel toe and non-studded logging soles. That was final cost after shipping. With 16" boots you won't feel the gaffs anymore but they are heavy as hell and it takes a solid two months to break them in and or the boots to break your foot in, whichever way it works. Knee high socks are also kinda hard to come by but if you look around you'll find plenty as long as you don't mind wool.

As others mentioned you will get used to the gaffs after awhile even with short boots on, although I still recommend a decent heel and at least a semi-solid shank. The only reason I bought the 16" boots was because I broke my left tibia (shin) awhile back and I needed the extra support. Try loosening or tighting up your straps to see if it helps or makes it worse. I double wrap the lower strap around the gaff which helps keep the gaffs from moving around, and up top I keep it snug but not tight.
 
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get the aluminum CADDY pads or the velcro wraps.

you need the velcro wraps WITH the steel insert.there is with and without.

make sure the height is adjusted right.

Geckos are great if you have smaller legs.

Boots make all the difference in the world.i bought the Hoffman;s duraliners from Bailey's.dual steel shank.WOW! what a difference.no break in on mine.they were comfortable right out of the box.
 
Thanks guys for all the replies. I'm still at a crossroad though. Do I go for the pads or the boots. I was looking at the Red Dawg boots that Baileys has mainly because of cost but if I can be mostly comfortable with just new pads then that is less than half the price of new boots. Are the aluminum pads that are called "cadillac pads" the ones everyone is reffering too, or is it something else?


Dan
 
Caddy pads or them.

Thanks guys for all the replies. I'm still at a crossroad though. Do I go for the pads or the boots. I was looking at the Red Dawg boots that Baileys has mainly because of cost but if I can be mostly comfortable with just new pads then that is less than half the price of new boots. Are the aluminum pads that are called "cadillac pads" the ones everyone is reffering too, or is it something else?


Dan

they aren't that expensive. i got the boots shipped for $216.i would have paid double that for the boots.that is how much difference they made.
 
Honestly never had a problem with leg pain after using spurs. As has been suggested, make sure they are properly adjusted to your leg length. The store you bought them from should be able to help there. I use basic steel Buckinghams with velcro pads.


On the subject of boots, I use Haix protectors with steel inserts in the foot to spread the load. The normal steel toes I climb walk around in are fine for climbing without spurs but that plate in the Haix boots is definately worth the money. You might also try using spurs with a built in footplate. I havent seen them IRL but the pictures make them look quite useful.
 
I bought my spurs from wesspur so there not gonna be any help for setting up properly. I'm gonna play around with the shank length and see if that helps at all. It's set at the lowest position on the spurs.
 
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