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we will see i just got 150 5/8green xtc,im goin to speed everything now till im sick of climbin.i spliced an eye,12 strand.im high tech now....
 
I like the treehouse that the Master Blaster lives in. Ah, for the simple life. Does it have a sunroof Butch?
John

My Piney Wood

I have a tiny piney wood;
my trees are only fifty,
Yet give me shade and solitude
For they are thick and thrifty.
And every day to me they fling
With largess undenying,
Fat cones to make my kettle sing
And keep my pan a-frying.

Go buy yourself a piney wood
If you have gold for spending,
Where you can dream in mellow mood
With peace and joy unending;
Where you can cheerfully retreat
Beyond all churchly chiding,
And make yourself a temple sweet
Of rapturous abiding.

Oh silence has a secret voice
That claims the soul for portal,
And those who hear it may rejoice
Since they are more than mortal.
So sitting in my piney wood
When soft the owl is winging,
As still as Druid stone I brood . . .
For hark! the stars are singing.



--- Robert Service
 
Try right clicking picture, and choosing edit to get to MSPaint. Or
Hold L.shift down and R.Click for all available options if that doesn't work, or
Choose "Open With" option off of R.Click menu of either option above.



Once in MSPaint select dotted line select tool in upper R.Hand corner of tool pallete; if not avaialable or unsure where that is Ctrl.T to toggle tool box hide.

While holding down Control Key, push A (Ctrl.A.=select all); then W(Ctrl.W=Stretch/Skew).

30 Tab 30 Enter = picture maintain perspective, shrink to 30% eaxch side.

Drag drawing pallet to fit.

Ctrl.S= Save

Some versions of MSPaint don't natively handle .jpg, .gif unless you have MSOffice etc. MSPaint Fix to handle .jpg .gif

Probably something similar picutre editor came with camera package, perhaps other software that came with computer, scanner etc. also. i done lurnt stretching paint around'ere!
 
Hi Butch, I was looking at your previous picture and was putting myself in your shoes, I mean flipflops lol, and was trying to visualize how to chunk down that stem in conjunction with the crane operator. Since the crane is doing most of the mechanical work, it would seem to me that no formal notch would be required. Rather, just one backcut in the direction of lean away from the operator about 95% thru and let the crane do the rest. This would seem to be the most safest. Since the crown is gone wouldn't it be mechanicaly ineffective to worry about any notching since we are dealing with a glorified telephone pole? I'd have the balls to do the cutting but could never muster the gonads to do any climbing.
I guess I am just asking how it is done when working with a crane.
John
 
It's all good, John.

If I put an underbed at all on it, it is nothing more than a glorified kerf-cut.

That allows the crane operator a 'lil leeway in making the chunk start to move.

And that's what it's all about.

Get that thang out yur face...
 
Originally posted by Gypo Logger
I'd have the balls to do the cutting but could never muster the gonads to do any climbing.

Nah, John. Putting mustard on yur gonads don't help at tall.

Just do it.

:angel:
 
Hi Rocky, what you said makes sense to me. Although a formal notch may be effective once the climber has cleared, it would be hard to place cuts front and rear due to the restricted movement of the climber. I guess with a wedge in the cut and the kerf mostly thru, the rest is up to the crane. I would imagine the biggest trick with the crane operator is to keep the chunk from osilating wildly once force is applied to break any remaining holdingwood.

Butch, I better change my choice of condiments from mustard to Louisiana hotsauce. Do you think that would get my scrawny ass up the tree?
 
When craning vertical wood, 95% of the time, I prefer one cut. I start my cut directly below the choke point, as a plumb bobs, and cut straight through. When the crane applies pressure, the kerf will automatically open up. Thus no wedges or opposing cuts are needed. And, as most cranes have a load scale, I'll tell the operator how much pressure to apply, and if my weight estimates are close, the piece will pop off gently. This last fine tune procedure I learned from wiley_p. But we are finding that butt logs can weigh 20-25% more than normal wood weights.

John, you don't want ANY holding wood, wood fibers are too strong to be easily broken in a straight up pull mode. No unexpected strain on the crain!

or noggin..as in cranium!

We're putting together a bid on a 5-6 foot redwood that is 102 feet from where the crane center pin will be. Sounds like we'll need a 210 ton crane, about 130 tons bigger than I've ever used....takes two semis to bring in the counterweights! So min charge about $3000!
 
There's no market for redwood up here, as they aren't native. As well, the tree is young, and grain is huge, so little value.
We will be calling around to see who we can interest in the wood...landscapers, wood carvers....I'll be happy to give it away. Havent estimated scale on it yet, but it is likely 4000-7000 bf!
 
A landscape magazine asked me to do an article on tree care.

They asked for some where to make a cut pics. Took a while to get some with sky in the background to show the shapes well.

Also, a juniper that was being removed, was a good example to show the concave cut method, which I remember Dr. Shigo referring to at one time.
 
Took this yesterday on the way to Seaside, Oregon, from Beaverton.

The forest burned some decades back - 1940s I think. They reforested the area, and tossed in some giant sequoias, which were not naturalized to this north Oregon area yet.

It takes sequoia about 20 years or more to even set seeds - so no seedlings here yet. Anyway, they stick out like church steeples in stands of douglas fir here...
 
Crown raised two young sequoias today...er yesterday(it's late) 5 whorls. Filled the 14 yard chip box from empty to the brim.
 
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