Limbing saws

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Fuzly

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I have seen "limbing saws" or a "good saw for limbing" mentioned several times on this site.

I am just wondering what this means. Do some folks take several saws with them when working and use seperate saws to fell and buck or limb?

Or do you fell one day and limb the next? Is this just for fun to use different saws or is this a work technique.?

I usally use the handiest saw that will do the job and use it for all the wood I'm cutting. Not looking to rip on anybody's style, just curious as to how things are done in different parts of the world. Plus, I don't own any saw that is over 60 cc, so I don't own anything that is really heavy.
 
Small saws, with high rpms - or a bit larger saws, with large sprockets -allways short bars.

I prefere my 361 with 15" bar and 3/8"x8 sprocket for limbing my mature birches, but the Husky 346xp and the older 242xp is more typical of the "breed" - Dolmar 4600S also.

Using lesser saws is a waste of time, unless the trees are really small, or spruce (then I prefere the 339xp).

Btw, I believe the 339 originally was consieved for one handed limbing of spruce - pretty common here - but Husky will of course never admit that........:help:
 
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Small saws, with high rpms - or a bit larger saws, with large sprockets -allways short bars.

I prefere my 361 with 15" bar and 3/8"x8 sprocket for limbing my mature birches, but the Husky 346xp and the older 242xp is more typical of the "breed" - Dolmar 4600S also.

Using lesser saws is a waste of time, unless the trees are really small, or spruce (then I prefere the 339xp).

Btw, I believe the 339 originally was consieved for one handed limbing of spruce - pretty common here - but Husky will of course never admit that........:help:
i fully agree

:chainsawguy:
i use the lightweight small saws on tree surgery with bars under 20" and more power full saws running 24" and longer bars for timber harvesting or fire wood jobs:cheers:
 
Out here we like to use the same saw for felling bucking and limbing. Lotta guys out here me included love 044/440 with 28" bar reduces bending and its usually same saw that will cover our falling and bucking. Of course we cut lotta softwood out here. Long bars ,big dawgs, wrap handles are the standard out here. Rarely run anything smaller than the 044.
 
....as usual in the PNW, but mostly nowhere else....

If your back is bad (as mine surely is), bend the knees instead, when needed......:cheers:
 
I prefer to cut firewood that is off the ground, when possible. I'll use a lighter saw, after the tree is dropped, to block the limbs with and save my shoulders from the repeated lifting of a heavier saw to shoulder height or higher. If, for some reason, I don't bring a lighter saw, then I just drop the limbs down to where I can comfortably get to them with the heavier saw.

Is that what you were thinking of?
 
My birches usually have some solid limbs, so they seldom end up with the trunk at ground level, after felling - I prefer to limb and buck from the root end and up, at the same occation, leaving as many supporting limbs as possible in place.
 
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I like to take a few saws every day. They are all Stihls, and very similiar in performance. I don't like to use one saw and keep it hot for hours, I like to sit one down to cool off and grab another. Typically for big firewood jobs I will take several 028, my MS390, and something bigger just in case I need it.
I found things go faster, and if I hit a stone or a nail I do not stop to change or sharpen chains, just grab another and go! It works for me!:cheers:
 
....as usual in the PNW, but mostly nowhere else....

If your back is bad (as mine surely is), bend the knees instead, when needed......:cheers:
yup i know those of us in the pnw are all a little off in the sanity factor:laugh: as a body ages you need to learn ways too make work less painfull:blob2: long bars equal less work .
 
I'm still new and learning but for me, my limbing saw is an 026, previously a 250. 200T for climbing and limbing if I have buddy with me that does not have a saw (they get the 026, no one touches my 200T). I just picked up a 6401 for felling and bucking. I would probably enjoy the 361 with a short bar, but for the amount of wood I cut the cost is not worth it. Plus I like the weight of the 026, ~2lbs lighter than the 361.

I tend toward a lighter saw with good power. The saws are not as quick as the bigger engine saws but I am quicker.
 
Nope!!!!!

It equals more work, for both you and the saw......:hmm3grin2orange: :greenchainsaw:

HA... Prove it Niko!:popcorn: :popcorn:

What ever saw I have in my hands at the time I fell a tree is my "limbing" saw. Having a "limbing" saw is just an excuse to buy another saw.

A true "limbing" saw is a tophandle used by climbers...

Gary
 
A true "limbing" saw is a tophandle used by climbers...

Gary


Oh, I don't know, but I have read some on here that use 70cc saws for limbing cause their 100cc+ felling saws were a bit much for the task.

There was a vid on here a while ago that showed a feller using a couple of different saws just to fell one tree.
 
Oh, I don't know, but I have read some on here that use 70cc saws for limbing cause their 100cc+ felling saws were a bit much for the task.

There was a vid on here a while ago that showed a feller using a couple of different saws just to fell one tree.

Agree... but you missed my point... the tophandle "limbing" saws are designed to limb trees by a climber. Sure they will have to haul other saws up the tree when chunking big trees. See it all the time here in the PNW... but you ain't gonna see a climber "limbing" with an 044 aloft... Those days are long gone...

Gary
 

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