Logspliter not engaging 2nd stage

[blades]

Milkman in answer to the question - heat causes the hydro fluid to thin out that is the biggest part of your problem. another would be air mixed into your oil. Even though you have replaced parts, That possibly excessive heat may have damaged various seals again. Any restriction to the flow of oil will create heat due to friction at that point, orifices, 90deg bends, small line dia. for volume. There are differences between various fittings on internal dia. Ie all 1/2 " fitting are not the same internally Another thing that will create problems is the routing of the return line to the tank. If it is located such as to be about even with the top surface of oil on a full tank or just pouring the oil back in from the top of the tank- it will cause turbulance / foaming of the oil- air in oil sucks all your working energy out as the air compresses where as the oil does not hence you will not develop rated pressures - a some what common issue. Remediation- check to see if the oil is foaming, use High flow fittings, if the hard line is slightly less than 1/2" on the out side dia. you can bet your sweet bippi that it is 3/8" or less internally simply replace line with 1/2" hose if possible. Yes that 1/4" port is poor design but you can not simply drill it out as that may leave a burr on the inside which will destroy your seals on the ram.
Additionally the wall thickness of the cylinder may be insufficient to support the threads of the fittings so there may be a welded on coupling to the cylinder . Recommend a cylinder repair shop for alteration- 3000psi is nothing to messing with home brew style. Also all couplings and hoses with the exception of the pump feed should rated at a minimum of 3000 PSI. Plumbing supplies from the hardware store are inadequate.

 

[blades]

Millkman two more items Low oil in tank or improper vicosity/ type oil. Ya I know its a lot to chew on- I always try to go after the simplest areas first in other words KISS system ( keep it simple stupid) No reflection or offense intended. I use aw32 in most of my hydro stuff the exception is if it is going to be used in extremely cold conditions then I use AIRCRAFT control fluid, more or less AW50 with anti icing agents and such.

If your oil is milky it is then contaminated with water another difficulty also make sure that the oil tank can breath. These are open systems not sealed to atmosphere- so a plugged up breather cap can be cause also.

At this point I don't think I missed any tricks but...........

 

[blades]

dang forgot one check your lovejoy coupler between the pump and motor if you have one.

 

[milkman]

Thanks for the list of possibilities, I'll start checking them off the list when I get my honey dos caught up a bit.

 

[farmer steve]

Ya I got multiple farm degrees myself- plus SHKD ( School of Hard Knocks degrees) no sheep skins with those though. Just callouses. Oh, wait those are the sheep skins for that.

easy on the sheep jokes @blades. (see my avatar).

 

[farmer steve]

It does have an Energy valve, I may try and contact them to see how to adjust it since there is nothing about it online. I would install a pressure gauge but I dont know how, hydrauilics are not my specialty lol. WoodTick, the main reason I bought this splitter is to replace a painfully slow homemade one, I dont burn wood, I sell it. So buying wood off Craigslist and smoking cheetos and eating weed blunts really dosent help me out lol.

hope this helps @joe12345
http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/17498X.pdf

 

[blades]

Didn't even think of avatar- sheep skin was a common name for graduation degrees in my day- There was a time when a group like in your avatar could get you a word of hurt in certain areas of the country.

 

[Bradley Ebling]

Did you get your problem solved if so what did you find. Just wondering could the vent in the fill plug be plugged causing the pump to cavitate ?


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