long bar/wrap handles/skip chain

[clearance]

Today I was falling, limbing and bucking some spruce and pine with my 371, 28" bar, skip, wrap handle. As I was working I kept thinking to myself, why do some people here seem so determined to run saws with short bars, flush handles and full house. Then it came to me, they have never used a decently set up saw for this kind of work, they get by with inadequately set up saws so they figure thats all there is to it. Kind of like when the car came about, horses were ok, got you places, who needs a car? No need to respond, whatever works for you, just sayin.

 

[manual]

I know what you are talking about.
Just the other day I was cutting firewood.
with a 18" Bar with a half wrap handle.
I did not even break a sweat, I was thinking why would I need more then what I am using.

 

[Cam501]

Today I was falling, limbing and bucking some spruce and pine with my 371, 28" bar, skip, wrap handle. As I was working I kept thinking to myself, why do some people here seem so determined to run saws with short bars, flush handles and full house. Then it came to me, they have never used a decently set up saw for this kind of work, they get by with inadequately set up saws so they figure thats all there is to it. Kind of like when the car came about, horses were ok, got you places, who needs a car? No need to respond, whatever works for you, just sayin.

Lets also not forget wrap handles aren't available in some places east of the rockies. I can't get wrap handles from my Stihl distributor, and Husky's are hard to come by as well.

 

[BC_Logger]

Half wrap handlebars are stock features on all small and medium size chainsaws, and are ideal for general cutting. They allow the operator to cut very close to the ground when felling trees. Most professionals from east of the Rockies are familiar with this style of saw. West coast operators tend to prefer the full wrap handlebar configuration. This allows the operator to handle the saw from the bar and chain side while making undercuts in large softwood trees. The full wrap handlebars also offer additional protection to the saw if it happens to be crushed by a heavy object. However, cutting close to the ground is difficult with full wrap saws, due to the protruding handlebar.

that best describes why some people don't use full wrap and the people who do well its a Pacific North West Thing :biggrinbounce2:

my 066 , 036 and my 385 and soon to be 3120 are all full wraps

 

[manual]

You also have to understand Clearance, He also would never do any tree work unless he was wearing tree spikes
Now days people are learning how to do tree service without spikes.

seems times are changing.

 

[blis]

Today I was falling, limbing and bucking some spruce and pine with my 371, 28" bar, skip, wrap handle. As I was working I kept thinking to myself, why do some people here seem so determined to run saws with short bars, flush handles and full house. Then it came to me, they have never used a decently set up saw for this kind of work, they get by with inadequately set up saws so they figure thats all there is to it. Kind of like when the car came about, horses were ok, got you places, who needs a car? No need to respond, whatever works for you, just sayin.

Definately a troll, he didnt even mention LOG CLAWS in his post. Everyone knows that full wrap/huge bar/skip chain AND log claws come in same package... :chainsawguy:

 

[sILlogger]

i cut timber here in IL and i usually cut all my stumps around ankle high.....full wrap wouldn't work so well...but i can't even think of a time when i would have needed a full wrap...i just don't get the point....y not just cut with the top of the bar???? but then again i have never used one...and prolly never will...

h^ll i missed the no need to respond part

 

[clearance]

Definately a troll, he didnt even mention LOG CLAWS in his post. Everyone knows that full wrap/huge bar/skip chain AND log claws come in same package... :chainsawguy:

Blis, didn't you see "no need to respond"? You just keep going with your gay little saw buddy, have fun.

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Have not used the new full wrap handle I got for the 372xpg so much that I can say it's good or bad, but had to buy it to see what all the fuzz was all about
If I don't like it no biggie I just put the flush handle back on !
But my first impression of handling the saw is that I probably will like it allot !

372xpg(W) 24" b/c

And thank you Blis for making me remember to order the big DAWGS

Ps. my favorite saw is my 357xpg with 15"b/c

 

[stihl 440]

pro

You're not a professional unless you can get a 40" DBH tree down with a 20" bar, half wrap and full comp. That seperates the men from the boys. Clearance, you think that everybody's technique is wrong except yours. That's all there is to it.:notrolls2: :notrolls2: :deadhorse:

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Hmm, since my favorite saw combo is the 357 with a short b/c that makes me a ,,, Sweet

 

[clearance]

You're not a professional unless you can get a 40" DBH tree down with a 20" bar, half wrap and full comp. That seperates the men from the boys. Clearance, you think that everybody's technique is wrong except yours. That's all there is to it.:notrolls2: :notrolls2: :deadhorse:

I am a troll, really? I never slagged people that use the bunky setup, now you are hurt and whining, I just thought I had figured out why. Thats all there is too it, not really, there is more than one way to skin a cat, use the best way, if you can, I guess.

 

[Cedarkerf]

You're not a professional unless you can get a 40" DBH tree down with a 20" bar, half wrap and full comp. That seperates the men from the boys. Clearance, you think that everybody's technique is wrong except yours. That's all there is to it.:notrolls2: :notrolls2: :deadhorse:

I can but why do it the hard way? So west coast loggers using 36" bars cutting 32" trees arn't pros?

 

[LarryTheCableGuy]

Definately a troll, he didnt even mention LOG CLAWS in his post. Everyone knows that full wrap/huge bar/skip chain AND log claws come in same package... :chainsawguy:

Suck-Back Preventers are optional though.



.

 

[stihlloggin]

You're not a professional unless you can get a 40" DBH tree down with a 20" bar, half wrap and full comp. That seperates the men from the boys. Clearance, you think that everybody's technique is wrong except yours. That's all there is to it.:notrolls2: :notrolls2: :deadhorse:

Sorry i have do disagree. There's nothing professional about a 20 inch bar! That's weekend warrior material. What do you do when your 1400' down a strip and run into a 60" tree? I think the 36" is a better bet but what do i know?

 

[GASoline71]

Do I really have to even respond? ...nope. You guys know whose side I'm on...

Gary

 

[MAG58]

The right saw, whit the right bar, chain, and handle, for the right job
I have full wrap handle and 24" bar on my Jred 2171 and I use it if I need it
but I also have 13" bar on my 2152, and 15" bar on my 2159 that I use

 

[clearance]

I forgot, big dogs as well, two of them, along with the other things that seperate the weekend warrior/wannabee crowd from the real deal.

 

[Industry]

I'm not really a "pro" harvester, but I do cut trees within feet of power, and do MOST of it with a 346XP. I do have a 7900 with a 36" bar, Full skip, should I come across some trees like this again

 

[Trigger-Time]

Long bars, short bars, 1/2 or 3/4 wrap..........IMO it's just depends
where your little chicken **** part of the world is and the type of
timber