Long term experience with Poulan Pro 5020?

[Philbert]

Yeah they find there spot every time but it just sucks to have one more tool you use 3 times a year

The right tool for the right job . . .

Philbert

P.S. there is a 'hack' posted here several times on A.S.: gently heat up some plastic tubing (like the insulating sleeve of a crimp-on electrical terminal) and press it over the splined needle for a custom fit. Should work for occasional use.

 

[Chris-PA]

it just sucks to have one more tool you use 3 times a year

Then use it more often and you'll feel better!

 

[Deleted member 83629]

well don't use the tool and blow up your saw.

 

[heyduke]

Then use it more often and you'll feel better!

actually the tool will fit many carbs that have slotted-head needles and is much easier to use than a flat bladed screw driver.

an old poulan with a walbro, slotted-heads. the tool is just above and to the right.



look ma! no hands!


sadly, i tried it on another walbro from a stihl 029. the needles were splined but too large.

 

[Chris-PA]

actually the tool will fit many carbs that have slotted-head needles and is much easier to use than a flat bladed screw driver.

I agree - I have one too. I really don't like using a flat blade as it slips off too easily.

 

[B-N]

A quick heads up to my fellow Canucks.

Tsc has 48 cc 20" refurbs for $100 starting on Friday May 1st.

Case not included...

 

[bikemike]

Then use it more often and you'll feel better!

I just slot them like all my other small engines are.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I just slot them like all my other small engines are.

Thats fine do what ever you want, but why ain't you complaining about having to buy a screwdriver to use on them? Tools are tools.

Instead of ******** about buying a spline driver, why don't you do some research and find out why they have those splined screws?

Believe me they have done us all a great service using them, much easier to just get the tool or even slot them like you said then to deal with limiter caps, sealed carbs etc.

BTW my Stihl blower has to use a special tool to adjust the carb on it as well. Its a hex driver but very thin. No biggie I modified a plain nut driver to work. $4 big deal. Much better then there saws where you have to carefully remove the limiter to trim it then put it back on so the screws will hold there set. Then if you don't use the Stihl limiter removal tool, you will screw them up once in a while then I have to go argue with the man behind the counter at the Stihl dealer and try to explain to him that he can sell me the new limiter caps I need.

If you work on this kind of stuff you need the proper tools, go buy the set of 4 like was suggested to you then you can work on them all.

 

[CTYank]

That DD comes in that set of 4.

John

I mentioned it so that you can easily ID the tool by the mark typically on the handle, AND so that others can avoid tool-clutter by getting only the tool(s) needed. (It is nice of Dolmar to not need a special tool to adjust idle speed and L mixture.)

Best way around all of this stuff: AutoTune. Digging it. Excellent insurance policy for really powerful engines.

 

[bikemike]

Thats fine do what ever you want, but why ain't you complaining about having to buy a screwdriver to use on them? Tools are tools.

Instead of ******** about buying a spline driver, why don't you do some research and find out why they have those splined screws?

Believe me they have done us all a great service using them, much easier to just get the tool or even slot them like you said then to deal with limiter caps, sealed carbs etc.

BTW my Stihl blower has to use a special tool to adjust the carb on it as well. Its a hex driver but very thin. No biggie I modified a plain nut driver to work. $4 big deal. Much better then there saws where you have to carefully remove the limiter to trim it then put it back on so the screws will hold there set. Then if you don't use the Stihl limiter removal tool, you will screw them up once in a while then I have to go argue with the man behind the counter at the Stihl dealer and try to explain to him that he can sell me the new limiter caps I need.

If you work on this kind of stuff you need the proper tools, go buy the set of 4 like was suggested to you then you can work on them all.

Cause i dont need a splined set up to tighten my chain so il buzz down a scrench and pull a plug change a chain and tighten it and still tune a saw when im in the feild on a job. I dont need to bring my whole tool box to go do tree work or cut wood . Just a big saw and top handle saw fuel oil scrench and climbing gear. One less thing to loose

 

[bikemike]

Thats fine do what ever you want, but why ain't you complaining about having to buy a screwdriver to use on them? Tools are tools.

Instead of ******** about buying a spline driver, why don't you do some research and find out why they have those splined screws?

Believe me they have done us all a great service using them, much easier to just get the tool or even slot them like you said then to deal with limiter caps, sealed carbs etc.

BTW my Stihl blower has to use a special tool to adjust the carb on it as well. Its a hex driver but very thin. No biggie I modified a plain nut driver to work. $4 big deal. Much better then there saws where you have to carefully remove the limiter to trim it then put it back on so the screws will hold there set. Then if you don't use the Stihl limiter removal tool, you will screw them up once in a while then I have to go argue with the man behind the counter at the Stihl dealer and try to explain to him that he can sell me the new limiter caps I need.

If you work on this kind of stuff you need the proper tools, go buy the set of 4 like was suggested to you then you can work on them all.

Oh yeah i do work on lots of stuff. Saw snowblower mowers pocket bike hovercraft boat engines model airplanes gas electric or nitro motorcycle ovehauls and tune ups. My poulan is now more like a husky one tool can do most of whats needed yeahya

 

[MrFiXiT]

Does anyone have any long term feedback of the Poulan Pro 5020? By long term I mean 2-3 years of advanced homeowner level use. I see that guys bought these in other threads and would like to hear if the saw is still going strong or if they already failed. From what I have read, Poulan Pro is made by Husqvarna.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/poulanreg;-pro-pp-5020-av-20-in-chainsaw

My wife and I bought a home with 5 acres last fall. The previous owner never cleaned up any of the storm damage over the years so I have trees laying or leaning everywhere. My current green Poulan 2025, for a 'throw away saw' has served me well but the 14" bar is too small. I need 18-20" to be able to get anything done.

I know there are 'better brands' out there and I don't want this to become a comparison thread; I can't afford a $400+ saw at the moment and have wood to clean-up now. I just know that I take care of my Poulan and it hasn't let me down in 8 years, and I'm the 2nd owner. The $200 price point for 50cc saw with a 20" bar is attractive. I see that guys bought these in other threads and would like to hear if the saw is still going strong or if they already failed. I do my own repairs so buying a box store saw with no dealer/repair support isn't much of a concern.

I'm also considering the Jonsered 2250 but would like to keep the discussion focused on the PP5020.

Thanks for your feedback!

I have had the Poulan 5020av for almost 2 years. I'm not a snob when it comes to the tools and equipment I buy but I do have to have something reliable. The problem with this Poulan model is that it comes with a bar and chain that was designed to minimize any sort of kickback. It's like they were paranoid to trust a home owner with a worthwhile bar and chain that can actually cut wood. In other words, my Poulan did not cut anything well out of the box. But, it's a powerful saw @ 50ccs. If you get a 16" or 18" bar and semi chisel chain on this Poulan Pro, it's a very good saw for the money. But I read a user who said an Oregon Bar that was slightly wider was compatible and it came with 2 semi chisel chains that were supposed to be excellent. Well, they were fantastic when I first used that setup. However, I was noticing the excessive leaking bar oil and since there is no adjustment for this, it was not even possible to prevent the excessive mess it created as well as the all the buildup of wood shavings and dust that ended up restricting the chain at times. Bottom line is, I would not buy this Poulan again. It's going for a warranty repair to fix everything so I can go back to the original spec and I am selling it. I hate the ridiculous bar and chain it comes with and the alternative bar and chain listed on Poulan's website, althought somewhat of an improvement, is also not my idea of a good setup. If you need something to cut a few tree branches here and there, maybe. But for someone who cuts a 7-8 cords of wood each season, and also uses a chainsaw freqently around the yard, I would never invest in something without an adjustment for oiling the chain and I most definitely need a saw that either comes with a good bar and chain or, come with the option to choose a good bar and chain. Chisel chains just have some kickback with some saws but a good semi chisel will shred through wood like butter. Some people were having issues with starting this one but to be honesty, that is the one strong feature about this saw. Mine started every time. Pull once full choke and it growled. Cut back on the choke and started right up. Very powerful and smooth. Love it. Wish they had adjustable oilers and a good bar and chain. Such a pity

 

[Philbert]

Usually do not see adjustable output oilers until more expensive, 'pro' saws.

As far as the 'Vanguard' style chain that come with it, you should be able to replace it with any 3/8 pitch, 0.050 gauge chain on the market, without changing the bar.

Philbert

 

[Chris-PA]

I don't really see the need for an adjustable oiler on a 20" bar - this saw has the same oiler setup as my Poulan 2775 and it's not been a issue there. The main thing with these is that it oils whenever the engine is turning so if you let it isle a lot you'll have a mess, but I don't do that.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Took a break from dumping old mix. Read the newer post and got a good laugh . Thanks.

I had some 70DL RS and LGX made. Also I prefer the 16" 60DL set up on these.

 

[bikemike]

Usually do not see adjustable output oilers until more expensive, 'pro' saws.

As far as the 'Vanguard' style chain that come with it, you should be able to replace it with any 3/8 pitch, 0.050 gauge chain on the market, without changing the bar.

Philbert

Duhh it says pro lol. Yeah my old 46cc dont have adjustable oiler but it pulls a 20inch full chisle no problem

 

[heyduke]

I have had the Poulan 5020av for almost 2 years. I'm not a snob when it comes to the tools and equipment I buy but I do have to have something reliable. The problem with this Poulan model is that it comes with a bar and chain that was designed to minimize any sort of kickback. It's like they were paranoid to trust a home owner with a worthwhile bar and chain that can actually cut wood. In other words, my Poulan did not cut anything well out of the box. But, it's a powerful saw @ 50ccs. If you get a 16" or 18" bar and semi chisel chain on this Poulan Pro, it's a very good saw for the money. But I read a user who said an Oregon Bar that was slightly wider was compatible and it came with 2 semi chisel chains that were supposed to be excellent. Well, they were fantastic when I first used that setup. However, I was noticing the excessive leaking bar oil and since there is no adjustment for this, it was not even possible to prevent the excessive mess it created as well as the all the buildup of wood shavings and dust that ended up restricting the chain at times. Bottom line is, I would not buy this Poulan again. It's going for a warranty repair to fix everything so I can go back to the original spec and I am selling it. I hate the ridiculous bar and chain it comes with and the alternative bar and chain listed on Poulan's website, althought somewhat of an improvement, is also not my idea of a good setup. If you need something to cut a few tree branches here and there, maybe. But for someone who cuts a 7-8 cords of wood each season, and also uses a chainsaw freqently around the yard, I would never invest in something without an adjustment for oiling the chain and I most definitely need a saw that either comes with a good bar and chain or, come with the option to choose a good bar and chain. Chisel chains just have some kickback with some saws but a good semi chisel will shred through wood like butter. Some people were having issues with starting this one but to be honesty, that is the one strong feature about this saw. Mine started every time. Pull once full choke and it growled. Cut back on the choke and started right up. Very powerful and smooth. Love it. Wish they had adjustable oilers and a good bar and chain. Such a pity

i prefer a saw that gets wet and messy to one that's stingy with oil. also, a 20" bar is a good length for firewood duty, short enough you don't put the nose in the dirt and long enough to cut most stems in one pass. and, any time you purchase a new home-owner class saw you're going to get low kickback chain. so buy a good chain and throw the other in your tool box to use as a spare. quit worrying and go out to cut a few truck loads of wood.

 

[zuren]

Thanks for all the feedback with this thread. The "save big money" store was offering a 11% rebate off everything so I took the plunge and picked up a 5020.

The sales guy was trying to talk me into PP4218A (less money) and the Remington Rodeo Pro (more money), mostly due to the emissions hour rating. Claimed they had better engines. Frankly I don't know but I've never seen them discussed like the 5020. I thanked him for the help and walked out with the 5020. I'm going to order up the carb tools before I do anything.

 

[Chris J.]

... and the Remington Rodeo Pro (more money), mostly due to the emissions hour rating. Claimed they had better engines. Frankly I don't know but I've never seen them discussed like the 5020. I thanked him for the help and walked out with the 5020. I'm going to order up the carb tools before I do anything.

IIRC the gas powered Remington chainsaws offered today are rebadged McCulloch models--made in China--that are sold in European countries. Even the guys active in the Remington sticky thread here avoid them.

 

[mexicanyella]

So, Zuren...have you formed any impressions about your 5020 yet?

I've only had mine for about 1-1/2 years and while I like the engine's easy starting and power level, I have had issues with an overly flexible rear handle causing throttle-travel issues in certain cutting positions. I think I've solved that now by adding a skid-plate-like brace made of plate aluminum under the saw, which stiffens the handle in terms of side-to-side flex. I have a thread here about this problem; a member called DrewUth chimed in in that thread with a different bracing solution made of dirt bike fender plastic that he says works well for him. So a few others have talked about similar issues but the number of positive comments about the saw makes me think that this may be a fairly occasional quality control issue with the handle-molding process, or something.

My former saw was a Poulan 2150...sort of similar to your situation. I'd be interested to hear how the 5020 works for you, if you're still monitoring this.