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Blakesmaster

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Just dropped 5K on a 1991 Vermeer 630B and I'm one pretty pumped up tree tree guy! Not the best machine on the market nor the machine that we really wanted but it was the right price, a one owner, only 675 hours, garage kept beauty that I knew the history on. No more back and forth with the walk behind jobby. Can't wait to get it out and grind. Hopefully I'll have some pics up soon but it was dark by the time we pulled it into the lot. Anyways. Teeth. I got handed a bag full of dinky little jobbies no bigger than my pinky as well as a coupla pockets. These teeth look so puny I'm not surprised he has over a 100 spares with him at all times. I want to upgrade ( after I blast through all these, of course ) but I'm not sure which way to go. Any advice?
 
What kind of stumps are you grinding?

Ones that used to have trees on top of them. Seriously though, we'll be hitting everything from small, rotten birches on high ground to large oaks on old river bed. Mainly, I want something durable that won't bog my little 35 horser down too much.
 
Ones that used to have trees on top of them. Seriously though, we'll be hitting everything from small, rotten birches on high ground to large oaks on old river bed. Mainly, I want something durable that won't bog my little 35 horser down too much.

Greenteeth if you are wanting to keep the current wheel on there. Sandvik if you want top dog. (Have to replace wheel too.)
 
I've got the same grinder and i run the "standard" teeth. When we have alot of pine stumps lined up, i will put on the square tipped "standard "teeth. If we are grinding out oak stumps i will run the round tip "standard "teeth. Works good for me.
The "yellow jacket" setup looks nice though, if you need new pockets anyway.
 
I've got the same grinder and i run the "standard" teeth. When we have alot of pine stumps lined up, i will put on the square tipped "standard "teeth. If we are grinding out oak stumps i will run the round tip "standard "teeth. Works good for me.
The "yellow jacket" setup looks nice though, if you need new pockets anyway.

They look very similar to the greenteeth. I do think the greenteeth are going to be easier to sharpen/have sharpened.
 
Search Rayco, greenteeth, leonardi, duradisk, sandvick on the site and you will get some ideas of what is out there. Those skinny 1/2" tooth and pocket system is the cheapest system but you will spend some wrench time keeping them gauged and set. I prefer the one piece Rayco teeth, bolt them on and grind. I get mine retipped and keeps the cost down. Good luck with the machine.
 
My main concern was simply finding teeth that will fit my wheel. As far as my experience goes, I've only ever used my buddies little walk behind and my old boss's SC752. I know my buddy used to get his sharpened from time to time but with the SC752 we never sharpened 'em, just replaced them when they broke. I take it since I'm pushing half the horsepower of the 752 I'll probably do better sharpening them every now and then since a good quality tooth won't break very easily. Anyway, I'm looking into the green teeth cause you can rotate them and get more cutting time per tooth. What sort of pockets will I need for these and would you recommend the standard or deep dish version? Oh, and where the heck would I get them sharpened?
 
My main concern was simply finding teeth that will fit my wheel. As far as my experience goes, I've only ever used my buddies little walk behind and my old boss's SC752. I know my buddy used to get his sharpened from time to time but with the SC752 we never sharpened 'em, just replaced them when they broke. I take it since I'm pushing half the horsepower of the 752 I'll probably do better sharpening them every now and then since a good quality tooth won't break very easily. Anyway, I'm looking into the green teeth cause you can rotate them and get more cutting time per tooth. What sort of pockets will I need for these and would you recommend the standard or deep dish version? Oh, and where the heck would I get them sharpened?

Greenteeth has their own pockets that you have to use. I would probably say the deep dish (red). That's what I used and really liked (on my old Rayco 1625 with 27 hp). You can get the new lowpro pockets with the tap and turn teeth. All you need to turn the teeth is a hammer.

You just box them up and send them to Gordan's Sharpening Service in AL. He will do the 700 series (probably the ones that you want for the 35 hp machine.) for about $2 each. You can fit hundreds in a $8.95 USPS Priority mail box. He does great work. They will actually come back sharper then when they were new.

You really will want to keep them sharp if you only have 35 hp. It was night and day difference in cutting spead/smoothness on my Rayco 1625 going from half dull to sharp teeth. (Not so much so on my Carlton SP7015 TRX.)
 
Greenteeth has their own pockets that you have to use. I would probably say the deep dish (red). That's what I used and really liked (on my old Rayco 1625 with 27 hp). You can get the new lowpro pockets with the tap and turn teeth. All you need to turn the teeth is a hammer.

You just box them up and send them to Gordan's Sharpening Service in AL. He will do the 700 series (probably the ones that you want for the 35 hp machine.) for about $2 each. You can fit hundreds in a $8.95 USPS Priority mail box. He does great work. They will actually come back sharper then when they were new.

You really will want to keep them sharp if you only have 35 hp. It was night and day difference in cutting spead/smoothness on my Rayco 1625 going from half dull to sharp teeth. (Not so much so on my Carlton SP7015 TRX.)

I was just over at their website and it looks like I can get set up for about $215. Not bad. I think I'm going with the 12 tooth set up as opposed to the 8 tooth, why, I don't know. It sounded better to me, I guess. Any thoughts on that one?
 
Welcome to the 'Own my own stump grinder' club!:cheers:

I once owned a 1988 Vermeer 630B with a 29hp Wisconsin engine. It was a good grinding machine and when pulled with a little Toyota 4x4 could get in some pretty tight places.

I like the fact that you can flip the wheels to the inside of the machine to shove it through a gate. Ever grind with it attached to a four wheeler or is that a bit risky?
 
I like the fact that you can flip the wheels to the inside of the machine to shove it through a gate. Ever grind with it attached to a four wheeler or is that a bit risky?

Nah your fine. Got pics? I would get one but I will wait for you to tell me how much fun it is first.
 
No pics yet. The thing has the weirdest fabbed up hitch I've ever seen to. Looks like a ?clevis? I think that's what you call it. Guy said he just pulled the ball out of an old hitch, slides it over top and puts the pin through, just like a tractor. I didn't like this, so I took a trick from the book of the Dan and just tied it to my ball with a clove hitch. Works like a charm.
 
No pics yet. The thing has the weirdest fabbed up hitch I've ever seen to. Looks like a ?clevis? I think that's what you call it. Guy said he just pulled the ball out of an old hitch, slides it over top and puts the pin through, just like a tractor. I didn't like this, so I took a trick from the book of the Dan and just tied it to my ball with a clove hitch. Works like a charm.

Yeah yeah, just go take a dam pic of the thing so we can all see it for crying out loud.
 
Our stumper came the type of hitch you mentioned. it also came w/ this contraption that slides over the hitch so you can move the machine around and grind without being hooked to the truck. We just cut off the old hitch and welded on a 2" ball coupler.
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That thing looks...ineffective. I'd be afraid I'd lose the machine with just those spikes pushed in the ground. I just tried pulling it with the estimate truck tonight to see if that little four banger Ford could handle it. Wouldn't want to make a long trip but at least now I know we can get all our equipment to and from local jobs in one trip. Good enough for me. And yeah, Dan, hopefully I'll get some pics up before everyone completely loses interest in my most recent acquisition.
 
I like the fact that you can flip the wheels to the inside of the machine to shove it through a gate. Ever grind with it attached to a four wheeler or is that a bit risky?

No problem pulling with a decent size 4x4 quad, The biggest issue is it turns into a 2 man project, 1 guy grinding while another guy sits on the 4 wheeler holding the front and back brakes.
 
That thing looks...ineffective. I'd be afraid I'd lose the machine with just those spikes pushed in the ground. I just tried pulling it with the estimate truck tonight to see if that little four banger Ford could handle it. Wouldn't want to make a long trip but at least now I know we can get all our equipment to and from local jobs in one trip. Good enough for me. And yeah, Dan, hopefully I'll get some pics up before everyone completely loses interest in my most recent acquisition.

Spikes are for show, they don't work. My dad had 2 of those machines and we used steel rods hammered into the ground at the tongue to hold the machine. If you have to use that machine free standing, you must keep all the chips out from under it. As for towing, make sure the tires and bearing are in good shape, machine is top heavy so watch the sharp turns. It also has no suspension so every bounce hits the machine. On a long distance run we put ours on a trailer.
 
Just a little bit longer today.

I added 1 MS200T and 1 385XP ( my first Husky ), a little rough, need some bushings and a bar for the 200, a new handle ( maybe I'll go 3/4 wrap for ####s n' grins ) and a trigger for the Husky. Bought them off a small-time, wanna be tree guy buddy of mine who's having a going out of business sale. Guess what I paid. I dare ya.
 

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