Looking for milling saw advice.... mid sized?

[woojr]

New writer here... greetings to all. I would like to run question or two by you.
I have come upon a handfull of rather clean, red and white oak logs ready to be milled. They're about 3 feet in diameter.
I'm considering buying a new saw with a 32-36 inch bar and rigging up either a store bought milling guide (or making one) to cut them down to a size where two of us can resaw them in the bandsaw. After this job is done I really don't have any need for something as big as a 5-6 cu.in. powerhead.

I was wondering if something like a Husky 570 would be up to the task of milling these logs. Figure 3 feet diameter by 12 feet long, 6 pieces. Cutting 6 inch slabs.

I could find other uses later for the more mid sized saw but I'm not sure if it can handle milling chore. Going a little slower is okay. Any thoughts on mid sized saws do milling tasks is appreciated. Also any thoughts on milling devices or home made guides and specialty chains is also appreciated. Thanks to all, John

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Welcome to AS woojr.

I'm not familiar with the 570, other than it's specs on paper. That would be borderline to say the least. A 32" bar is generally considered too much for that amount of power even in a standard cross-cutt application, let alone ripping. Keeping in mind that you're only milling the wood you describe, I guess anything is doable, as long as you're willing to go super, super slow. I often mill with a buddy and his 660 Mag, and through a 30" alder, it's slow going. The 660 is a significantly larger saw than the 570, and oak is somewhat harder than alder. If you're looking for a "mid-sized" saw I'd at least look at the 575. That's JMO, I'm sure others will have other opinions.

Jeff

 

[Sawyer Rob]

The way i handle those big logs (and i don't have a huge saw) is to saw down the log 2 or 3" deep full length. Then go back and start over going 2 or 3" deep again and again.... Keep doing it untill your half way or so deep, then roll the log and start over. It goes quite fast, and if you can't "eye" a straight line, just snap one on the log with a chalk line...

I saw the log into "quarters", and then put the quarters on my mill one at a time.... Quarter sawn lumber sells for more anyway, and also i like it myself!

You really don't need a huge saw, or bar doing it this way. You really don't even need a ripping chain... (but i do use an Oregon rip on mine)

I use a Husky 268XP with 24" bar and it works every time for me...

Rob

 

[KarlP]

New writer here... greetings to all. I would like to run question or two by you.
I have come upon a handfull of rather clean, red and white oak logs ready to be milled. They're about 3 feet in diameter.
I'm considering buying a new saw with a 32-36 inch bar and rigging up either a store bought milling guide (or making one) to cut them down to a size where two of us can resaw them in the bandsaw. After this job is done I really don't have any need for something as big as a 5-6 cu.in. powerhead.

I was wondering if something like a Husky 570 would be up to the task of milling these logs. Figure 3 feet diameter by 12 feet long, 6 pieces. Cutting 6 inch slabs.

My milling saw is a 385xp with 32" bar. IMHO, it is barely big enough.

You could _probably_ get by with a 570 for those few cuts, but if you are buying an Alaskan mill and you like milling, you'll come across some more logs eventually. Have you seen http://onlinestore.forestindustry.com/cgi-bin/baileys/catch.html?product=1886? An extra $100 appears to buy you a lot more saw.

Keep in mind you'll be running the saw at full throttle for ~2 1/2 hours to cut those logs up. Do you want to be pushing a new saw that isn't really big enough for the job for that long?

 

[Mr_Brushcutter]

I'd like to do some milling as i've spotted some nice 32" thick English oak cut into 5' sections left by the side of an old railway. I wouldn't consider milling than will anything less than a 395xp but i'd rather go for the 3120xp for the job. Milling is hard work on the saw so you need a big engine. Check Ebay you could probally pick up anything from a 660 to a 090 fairly cheaply.

I've used my 365 with 15" bar and full chisel chain to cut up a few rough boards for making signs and thing using a chalk line. These logs were softwood and about 10" diameter that was quite hard on a saw and that was 65cc class. I think a good rule of thumb the bigger the saw the better i think milling is an excuse to own a 3120.

 

[computeruser]

I had posted about the possibility of doing some light milling with my 80cc Dolmar (same saw as the Makita that KarlP linked to) a while back and most agreed that it could be done but wasn't quite enough saw for the job.

Over the Christmas holiday I did some freehand ripping of some 32-36" hard Maple, removing the top 6-10" from logs so they could be used as rustic benches. Most cuts had all but the last 1/2" of the 28" bar in contact with the wood; a couple required that I come back in the other direction later. Suffice it to say, now I know why people use 100cc+ saws for milling! I still plan to buy an Alaskan mill for this saw, but will restrict myself to smaller material. I cannot imagine trying to run a 32" or 36" bar for ripping on an 80cc saw, much less a 68cc saw.

I think that you would benefit from buying a larger saw if you have any serious plans for milling.

 

[KarlP]

I did some freehand ripping of some 32-36" hard Maple ... Most cuts had all but the last 1/2" of the 28" bar in contact with the wood ...I cannot imagine trying to run a 32" or 36" bar for ripping on an 80cc saw, much less a 68cc saw.

Keep in mind that you need to clamp outside the dogs and back 4-5" from the tip to protect the sprocket with an Alaskan. So using a 32" bar in an Alaskan mill can have at most 26" in the wood. I use mine to make 10' long, 2' wide, 2.25" thick soft maple planks which I find is about as large as two people can comfortably carry. I resaw them further as needed on a bandsaw after drying.

I think that you would benefit from buying a larger saw if you have any serious plans for milling.

As I said, the 385xp is barely big enough (for my occasional use)...

 

[amissionaryman]

The way that I read you're Post is that you are concerned about the cost as opposed to use factor. One thing that has not been suggested is the possibility of finding an older large displacement saw to use that you wouldn't have to use for anything else. You feel that the cost of a new saw would not justify the use it would see from just milling. Would an old large bore saw plus a new saw for bucking be a more equitable arrangement?

Just a couple thoughts.
God Bless,
Brent J Cox

 

[weimedog]

The hardwood requires more power than soft woods....kinda common sence.
Trying to pull a 36inch bar thru almost the same width oak plank is going to require some serious ass.

If your are thinking of life after milling..I have to agree with amissionaryman or something in the 80cc class as an option to having two saws.

 

[hautions11]

Mid size milling

For occasional use I think Sawyer Rob has the hot set-up. If creating lumber for furniture etc. Wide boards do not work. Most of my projects(tables, cabinets etc) only use 4-6" boards to control cupping of your doors and table tops. Quarter sawn Oak is beatifull and in high demand due to its excellent stability. I have a 32"-24" diameter 40' long oak log to tackle and I'll quarter saw then mill boards. 064 28" bar, Bailey's ripping chain.

L

 

[woojr]

And thanks to all...

Well, first thanks to all the thoughts on milling. As amissionary picked up on, I really just want to buy one saw here. Sawyer Rob leads me to think it can be done with his technique. Now I think I've narrowed my choices to the MS440 and the 372xp. Any follow ups on prefferences for either saw would also be appreciated. ...and God Bless

 

[ontario026]

I just received a 30" alaskan mill for christmas, which will go on my muffler modded 044 with a 30" bar, which should yeild about a 24" cut or so? I am waiting on ripping chain from bailey's and to find some wood and time to try my hand at milling.... Hopefully within the next couple of weeks I will be able to post how the set up works.... I am not looking for high production milling, just to make a bit of lumber for some small woodworking projects in the future,....

 

[NORMZILLA44]

woo jr, I think if you are going to go to the truble of getting set up for milling, and buying supplies, you may as well get the big saw it will make life alot easier, and take far less time. You could always sell it off. Buy mid size saw later. I work in the county road dept, and get alot of emergency calls when trees are down. Every yard has small, several mid size saws 257, 046, 365,etc., but they all have at least one big one 076, 066, and 084. Got a call once from one of my bosses. I was half way to job tree across roadway, he called me on the radio, and asked me to go back to yard to get the big saw, 08 stihl. I heard one guy say over the radio thats a waste of time we have enough saw out here, we will clear it before Norm gets here. Guess what they were all still waiting when I got ther,and the road was not open. Guess who cut it. It was a live oak 4 fott or better, and all they had were 257's with a 20" bar. I made short work with the 084 with a 32" bar. They would have been there all day without the big saw. I am to busy, and dont have the time to flip logs all day for the same cut.

 

[1953greg]

woojr,

if u r going w/ the husky line consider the 365. bout the same cc's, money, and hp but is bout 1.5 lbs lighter. sharpen chain after each cut and u can get through it. just for the fun of it i have milled 28" red oak w/ a stihl 039 36" bar which is bout the same cc's as the 365 and 570. its slow but whats time to a hog?

good day 1953greg

 

[dingo]

I bought a beam cutter and a rip chain for my Husky 385 XP and it worked fairly well, but I thought it was too hard on the bar and saw. It did an acceptable job with the 20" bar, I'll say this "that's making beams the hard way, but poor man, poor ways"

 

[NORMZILLA44]

1953greg, what saw are you comparing hp to the 365, and saying is the same?

 

[bugfart]

I would find it difficult to believe the weight of the saw becomes a show-stopper for occasional milling. It doesn't sound like you are particularly "under the gun" to go cut boards. Get something with a long stroke and dedicate it to the mill. Throw skip chain on any old Homelite C-series or an old Pioneer and just make it part of the mill. No dissassembly switching chains and bars bla-bla. Not to mention assembly to use it. (Oops, I guess I just did)

Never go about life with only one saw. That's before contemplating a mill. You need bla-bla and then buck-bla-bla trim-bla bla-bla

So, what you really need is five saws.

 

[1953greg]

"1953greg, what saw are you comparing hp to the 365, and saying is the same?"

norm,
to the best of my memory the husky 365, 570, and stihl 039 are all bout 65 cc's. not sure bout the hp. probably pretty close. just implying that either of them can rip. albiet slow, not terribly slow, but doable with the 570 coming in bout 1.5 lbs heavier by specs. havent had a 570 n my hands but have used the other 2. i liked the 365 the best, and it belongs to my friend! when my 20 yr old 039 finally gives up the ghost i wil have me one. maybe b4.

woojr,

skip or semi skip chain would help also (easier to pull) although will leave a little rougher surface, and round chisel is smoother than square. sharpen to 5-10* (more angle pulls harder but cuts faster) w/ 5* dn angle n u wil b ok.

good day 1953greg

 

[NORMZILLA44]

I was just being curious, yes many times I have used smaller saws, for big jobs. I just know if I was to go to the truble of setting up a mill. I think I would get a big saw, and dedicate it to the cause, it seems like a mill saw would have a shorter life.

 

[Marco]

Find somebody with a portable bandmill, have him saw your few logs and take the money you saved on a huge chainsaw & milling jig and go on a bender. Myself I mill with a 336 cubic inch Minneapolis Moline power unit with a custom muffler setup and a custom fuel tank. Blade 42" Diston insert tooth, mix 80% gas/20% diesel, and I lube the setworks with drain oil.
I keep a chainsawmill around for odd, valuable, short stuff. Otherwise it seems like a big time consumer.