Looking to replace a small (30-33cc) chainsaw

[zuren]

It appears that the smaller of my 2 chainsaws is having issues so I'm trying to decide if it is worth repairing or focus time and money toward a different/better solution. I've included some background below if it is helpful.

Despite all the negative sentiment around Poulan, my little green Poulan 2050 has been my go-to saw for years. I had some bigger logs to contend with so I bought a PP5020V based on the large thread posted on this forum (so far I've been happy). On my relatively new-to-me property, it was easier to use the green Poulan to get into tight places going after larger buckthorn trees. However, this saw is suddenly having problems. After priming, it surges at startup then dies. I've tried adjusting the carb but I think I need to dig deeper. The spark plug is dry as a bone so I think I have a fuel delivery issue. The fuel filter, carb, fuel lines, etc. are all ~20 years old so instead of throwing time and money into a 20 year old consumer, "throw away" saw ($40-50 by my estimate) with a 14" bar, I'm wondering if a newer and smaller saw is my best choice.

So a couple questions:
1. Does a top handle saw have a lot of utility if you are not a professional climbing trees all day? To put it another way, can a top handle do everything a rear handle can do (given the same bar length and engine size)?
2. Is there a big difference in handling and maneuvering with a 12" bar vs. a 14" bar? I'm experienced with 14", 16", and 20" bars on rear handle saws but thinking smaller may be better.
3. Is a consumer level Stihl better/same/worse quality than a similar Poulan, Echo, Husky, etc.? Looking at a MS170 w/ 12" bar for $180.

I may try a couple more things on my green Poulan but I'm not convinced it is the best tool to help me work quickly and efficiently in brush and tight places.

Thanks for any guidance!

About me
- Homeowner
- Run a saw maybe 20 times per year for ~1 hr. per outing
- Raising a family on a single income so cash reserves are limited; I would love pro level hardware but currently not affordable
- Do not heat with wood
- No brand loyalty

The Project
- 3 acres with some storm damaged cottonwood and other fallen junk wood
- LOTS of buckthorn (most are small (1-2") but others are very large (8"+))
- cutting trails and hunting lanes through most of it

My Tools
- Poulan Pro PP5020 chainsaw - 50cc, newer, will be adding an 18" bar and better chain soon
- Poulan 2050 (green) chainsaw - 32cc, 14" bar and good chain, this is the one that needs some repair as it is not running right
- Stihl FS90R trimmer - I run both the string head and a brush blade on it
- various hand tools (hand saw, loppers, manual pole saw, etc.)

 

[undee70ss]

The spark plug is dry as a bone so I think I have a fuel delivery issue. The fuel filter, carb, fuel lines, etc. are all ~20 years old

The cheapest option is going to repair it if you, or a buddy can fix small engines. 20 yr old fuel filter, it may be just that. A new filter, lines, carb kit, tank vents, muffler cleaning, and it might run good as new.

 

[Boomer 87]

I'll tell you what I'll do I have a homelite lx 30 bandit the chain is too long for the bar you'd have to get a shorter chain but I put new fuel line and filter on it good duck bill in the oil tank, good air filter it's kind of a top handle if you'll pay for the ride you can have it, it runs fine

 

[Boomer 87]

It's super light weight shipping can't amount to anything.

 

[zuren]

It's super light weight shipping can't amount to anything.

PM being sent.

 

[blsnelling]

New fuel lines and a carb kit would likely put your old saw back in service.

 

[ironman_gq]

If ya aren't able to fix your saw, I'd seriously be looking for a used Stihl 025 or MS250. Not much weight difference between a 250 and the 170 you were looking at but I think they were built better and have a whole lot more power. I've had both and the 250 was a much better saw, In my opinion the 170/180 are good for occassional branch trimming but not good for anything requiring serious work. The air filters aren't real great and the .043 gauge chain on them breaks really easily if you catch a rock or nail.

 

[Chris-PA]

Is a consumer level Stihl better/same/worse quality than a similar Poulan, Echo, Husky, etc.? Looking at a MS170 w/ 12" bar for $180.

There is no net advantage in terms of design, materials or assembly for the Stihl plastic clamshells over anyone else's, they just cost more. All designs are different, so one could point to this part or that on a particular design that is better, but there will be some other where it is worse. I've worked on my Dad's MS250C several times and recently tore it all the way down - I was unimpressed.

You don't need much to cut 8" wood, and the 2050 would be fine if it had A/V.

You might want to look at the Ryobi RY3716 at Home Depot.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

A battery powered saw may be the way to go since you have a larger 50cc for bigger stuff. They are very light weight with no fuel to mess with.

 

[7sleeper]

As long as you stay with established brands.

Dolmar = Makita, Echo = Shindaiwa, Efco = Oleo Mac, Hitachi = Tanaka, Husqvarna = Jonsered, Stihl

I would be happy with any of above with a max. 14 inch bar.

Models I would choose
Dolmar ps32
Echo 400
Efco 410
Husqvarna 135
Hitachi cs40ea
Stihl 211

7

 

[svk]

I did a lot of research before buying my little saw and am very happy with my Dolmar PS-32.

I'd stick with a rear handle saw. 14" is optimum for general purpose cutting with a small saw.

That's a very generous offer @Boomer 87

 

[Boomer 87]

I don't need it I'd like to help a guy out

 

[dougand3]

Even getting a "new" saw, I'd repair the 2050. It's been a family member for 20 years! It's not possible to have too many saws.
1990-2005 Poulans are simple saws to work on - good learning experience. We can talk you through it and youtube probably has videos.

 

[zuren]

Thanks to Boomer for the "new to me saw" (currently sitting on the bench waiting for a chain) and thanks for the feedback. I received some parts for my green Poulan and ran into some puzzling findings.

Hooking up new fuel line to the priming bulb and fishing it into the fuel tank and attaching a new filter took some finesse but I got it done. Then I moved to the larger diameter "pulse" line and that is where I started finding strange things. In the pic of the fuel tank, you see the end of the pulse line coming into the right side of the tank (with the plastic adapter in the end - pic 1 and 3). Looking closer, I found a chunk of fuel line and a green rubber check valve ("duckbill") laying in the bottom of the tank (pic 2). I don't know where the fuel line came from. I got this saw used so it may have been from the previous owner.

I yanked the pulse line out and need to get the new one in. Once I do that, does that duckbill go on the end of that barbed adapter? I haven't found any pics or videos that show or explain the arrangement. I would appreciate any insight!

Thanks!

 

[dougand3]

Pics 1 & 3 show the broken purge return line and barb. You really don't need the barb if you thread 3/32" ID line from the top and it goes in a good 1/2"- 1". The barb is to keep line from working out. I rarely put it back on. You could insert barb in a line with a taper on the other end, use long needle nose pliers and insert thru tank hole from inside the tank.

The duckbill is from the fuel cap = tank vent. Take a socket a little bigger than duckbill and tap it back in...if cap leaks - you have to keep trying to get a good seat of duckbill collar.

 

[zuren]

Pics 1 & 3 show the broken purge return line and barb. You really don't need the barb if you thread 3/32" ID line from the top and it goes in a good 1/2"- 1". The barb is to keep line from working out. I rarely put it back on. You could insert barb in a line with a taper on the other end, use long needle nose pliers and insert thru tank hole from inside the tank.

The duckbill is from the fuel cap = tank vent. Take a socket a little bigger than duckbill and tap it back in...if cap leaks - you have to keep trying to get a good seat of duckbill collar.

Thanks for the info. The duckbill must be from the old gas cap. The old cap was leaking (I can see why now) and the o-ring was shot. For a few dollars, I put a new cap on it that does not use a duckbill valve.

I'll try to get the saw finished up tonight and get some fuel in it.

 

[Chris-PA]

The new cap does have a duckbill, it's just under the ball/socket attachment for the retainer.

 

[zuren]

The new cap does have a duckbill, it's just under the ball/socket attachment for the retainer.

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[zuren]

UPDATE:

I got all of the new fuel lines, fuel filter, primer bulb, and air filter installed. I did not solve anything! It still starts up fine and will run as long as I have the throttle wide open, but dies the moment you attempt to let it go to idle. Carb screws are out 1.25 turns. Time to replace the carb?

 

[dougand3]

Idle screw is turned In? Open up L screw (CCW) to 2 turns and re-try.
Did you open and clean the carb? Check carb diaphragms? - If that is new to you, just get a new carb. A rebuild kit is $4-$6, while a new clone carb is $10 shipped from China or $15 shipped from USA.
I've bought dozens from Huztl and had good luck.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...060092?hash=item43ee5fbb3c:g:P8wAAOSwvU5XNWWT