lower gear box gasket

[Jimma]

Anyone know if there is a gasket, seal or bearing around the shaft in the lower gear box going to the cutter wheel of a vermeer 352. The parts diagram doesn't break down the gear box. I got a wire cable wrapped around the shaft while grinding and seems to have damaged some type of seal and I'm leaking oil from the gear box..

 

[Jimma]

anyone know anything about gear boxes for the cutter wheel of a 352 stump grinder? Id like to repair mine if possible. But I need to get it fixed even if I have to replace the whole box. But I can't seem to find the numbers that can identify what Gear box I need. Anyone ever get one for a Vermeer 352?

 

[Jimma]

Read a post by someone that 352s tend to shread oil seals when something wraps around shaft. The parts book shows the oil seal as So the parts book identifies the oil seal as 45x65x8. Anyone evr replace one?mAnything I should know before taking it apart?

 

[kiwidiesel]

Anyone know if there is a gasket, seal or bearing around the shaft in the lower gear box going to the cutter wheel of a vermeer 352. The parts diagram doesn't break down the gear box. I got a wire cable wrapped around the shaft while grinding and seems to have damaged some type of seal and I'm leaking oil from the gear box..

 

[kiwidiesel]

Remove the grinding disk and large nut, then use a threaded puller on the driving flange. It's on a taper so when the tension is on the puller, hit the end with a hammer. It will come off with a bang so stand to one side. Then undo the bolts holding on the flange where the shaft exits the gearbox.
Remove the flange and dig out the old seal. You can buy the seals at a bearing outlet. Make sure you replace the oil with the correct grade. It is synthetic and the spec should be on the machine by the controls. Don't re use the old oil.
We use Locktite instant gasket on the flange when re installing it. Keeps the oil in and dirt out. Also, remove the breather and give it a good clean and blow out.

 

[Jimma]

thank you Kiwidiesel

 

[blues143]

Remove the grinding disk and large nut, then use a threaded puller on the driving flange. It's on a taper so when the tension is on the puller, hit the end with a hammer. It will come off with a bang so stand to one side. Then undo the bolts holding on the flange where the shaft exits the gearbox.
Remove the flange and dig out the old seal. You can buy the seals at a bearing outlet. Make sure you replace the oil with the correct grade. It is synthetic and the spec should be on the machine by the controls. Don't re use the old oil.
We use Locktite instant gasket on the flange when re installing it. Keeps the oil in and dirt out. Also, remove the breather and give it a good clean and blow out.

tried to take mine off today and broke the puller. these hubs must really be on tight?

 

[blues143]

Well I used a bigger puller and a bigger hammer. Hub finally came off. Anybody know the torque to reinstall the nut?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[Ever_ready]

I just purchased a used SC372 with this same issue! I bought the machine at a reduced price “as is” thinking I could do this repair myself! Lol I hope I haven’t over extended my abilities! Anyone else have anymore input on their experiences with this issue? Mine is leaking oil like a sift! Seal should be here this week, thanks in advance for any input! Jim

 

[74inchshovel]

Went down this road a year ago with my 372. Going to disagree with previous comment, absolutely buy the seal from Vermeer. This is an extremely heavy duty seal, made for the application. Go to a bearing supply house you’ll get a “will fit”. Also, replace all bolts in the bolt ring with Vermeer bolts, they come coated with a Loc Tight. Getting wheel off is easy, next is the large nut that holds the flange on. It took my 3/4 gun to get it loose. The flange takes a pretty heavy duty 3 jaw puller to remove. With a few blows from a sledge. I had to fab a seal driver just for this, since the seal was 60$ did not want to eff it up. The only trick on reassembly is I torqued large nut then smacked flange with a large brass hammer to reset, torqued again, repeat. This is not a hard fix, just requires some tooling.

 

[Ever_ready]

Thank You 74 for your input, I went to Vermeer and picked up the correct seal to the tune of $110! Ridiculous price but what do you do? I started this repair at 2 30 in the afternoon and was wiping my tools off and cleaning up the mess finished at 4 30, so about 2 hrs complete! Vermeer quoted me $650 for labor alone on this repair. Breaking the taper fit hub apart was by far the hardest part. I pulled the 4 bolts out of the drive and just took the whole lower unit off and put it in my 20 ton press. It took a few mins and standing safely to the side it came apart with a huge bang! I appreciate your input and have ground 3 hrs according to my hr meter and No Leak! Nice! Now I’m glad I took the risk. This is my first experience using this SC372 and honestly compared to my previous sc252 this thing is a best and it does it with ease! I’m learning to deal with the operator presence controls. I think a lot of it is experience and the 4wd and power steering is awesome! How long have you been going with your 372 and what is your opinion of it?

 

[74inchshovel]

My opinion is that it’s a very solid, reliable machine with great balance. It’s main weaknesses are bad visibility, limited sweep and really throws material. 4wd is a huge productivity booster, the blade was worthless and was off my machine quickly. I’ve done a ton of mods, get me your email and I’ll show you what I’ve done

 

[Ever_ready]

My opinion is that it’s a very solid, reliable machine with great balance. It’s main weaknesses are bad visibility, limited sweep and really throws material. 4wd is a huge productivity booster, the blade was worthless and was off my machine quickly. I’ve done a ton of mods, get me your email and I’ll show you what I’ve done

[email protected]

 

[Ever_ready]

You nailed it on the weak points but for me moving to this 372 from a 252, it’s like trading in a yugo for a Cadillac! Lol my 372 has just 417 hrs and everything on it seems to function great! Hydraulic steering! 4wd, push button differential lock, POWER!!! Oil is clean and it runs and purrs perfect so far! I have already adjusted to how I can hold the sweep lever and step forward to look at my work without killing the wheel.

 

[iowagold]

how about some sort of heavy auto hard washer to protect the seal?

 

[Ever_ready]

Hey Iowa gold! Thank you for the idea, but, I don’t think there is any room for a washer. I’ve had no issues this week with anything wrapping around my wheel so far! I also think there is no substitute for diligent awareness In watching what your working in as far as vines and wire! I check every stump I grind with a pick ax or grubbing hoe to make sure there is no rock or steel or wire. I see stumps everyday all grown up with weeds and if you don’t check them and you just start grinding blind, I think your asking for trouble!! Just my opinion!

 

[iowagold]

snap a pix of the hub seal assy in question..
I bet I can come up with something to keep the junk out of it..

they even have those split shaft collars now..
I used a couple of those on a tiller shaft for a client a few years back with a cup to cover the bearing seal.
looked good and worked perfect!
and was on the cheap!! lol!!